In the comments it would be great if we could include pictures, to show which settings we use in the game of the same profile.
“The silence before the storm”
May we have some updates on this topic?
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Follow up with the announcements on social media.
You can also look up my posts on the forum to rule out some things.
Can we have some information on official support channel, not on some woke libtard social media.
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Yes, when it is the time.
Edit: I recently recalled tanking framerate behaviour also occurred with an AccuForce in The Crew (the first one). I have now reproduced the tanking framerate with the SimuCube 2 Pro with The Crew. As soon as you assign Left/Right steering wheel inputs the framerate goes from a locked 60 to 15-20 FPS and very unplayable. So, this actually affects real games not just modders messing around. That’s why it’s valuable for wheels to have throttles as I’m told Fanatec has on their DDs.
Suggestion:
- Allow higher than 1000hz usb refresh rate (I’m lead to understand the newest usb specs allow this)
And/Or…
- Throttle requests and ignore anything more than the limit the wheel can handle to avoid fps drops. Apparently the Fanatec DD wheels do this and have no fps slow down when FFB is being sent at > 1000hz.
I discovered recently that increasing the GTR2 ffb level, which adds in directinput effects, can cause ffb that was fine before to exceed the limit and result in fps slow down. The only way to use the higher ffb levels was to lower the refresh rate of the existing ffb forces. Would be nice to not have to worry about that.
This is related to this thread:
HI, it’s probably written somewhere but I don’t know where, does truedrive have to stay open while using the steering wheel or can it be closed?
If it can be closed, as I think, what are the advantages of keeping it open, if any?
Once you have set the correct profile settings, True Drive can be closed.
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Updated my post about tanking framerates due to exceeding usb refresh rate after testing and reproducing in a real game, The Crew.
That’s why it’s valuable for wheels to have limiters on usb refresh rate as I’m told Fanatec has on their DDs.
I’m not really sure what this means.
Like a throttle on the usb refresh rate / number of usb requests being made by ffb. For example, if it’s above the usb spec rate than just start dropping requests silently to avoid the framerate tanking.
I think it’s supported FFB refresh rate wheel reports.
Kunos have option in both AC and ACC to change it, but it’s more of an exception than a norm.
Yep, some wheel bases have a custom device driver that is able to communicate with the device faster and in a non-blocking way compared to the USB Physical Interface Device packets that are sent always all the way to the device.
We are thinking on how to improve things without starting the mega project of writing a device driver.
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Video 7, tutorial about adjusting and fine-tuning the settings in your simulator environment and in True Drive
A basic principle should be followed: the logic of Simucube is that it follows the input from the simulator given and then fine tune it in TD. Therefore, adjust the settings in the simulator first, then fine tune the settings in True Drive to meet your desired driving experience.
Now, questions to those ignoring this and doing it the opposite way:
What made you believe that the logic of Simucube is wrong and your approach is better?
Whatever you propose and recommend is always under the premise that you are right and the person who is asking is ignoring the recommendations made from Simucube aswell. For those who do it the recommended way your input isn’t a help, it’s contraproductive. Are you aware of this?
A lot of what you are asking for, criticising, could be a result of ignoring the recommendations. Did you ever consider this as a possibility?
What makes you sure that all sliders/settings available must be used? Could it be that, because you always use 100% torque at True Drive, you are forced to use too much damping and inertia? As a result of starting at the wrong side?
Let us assume that Simucube is publishing wrong recommendations. Recommendations which are fundamentally wrong. Why would I then buy a product from this company that doesn’t even understand the way a signal travels, what has an influence on what, where, when and why??
Why would I even test, try to improve a product that has a software built on absolute wrong basic ideas/ approaches. Or better, why are you doing this?
I’m pretty sure you misunderstand or have read wrong
Because it is always recommended to turn all ingame affects to zero and turn down ingame FFB before adjusting settings in true drive. I dont think anyone is arguing against this
I think this is your misunderstanding of the approach we (I) take or what Granite means by adjust ingame settings first
And the rest of your comment is the usual mambo jumbo we often see
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Majority of sims have essentially just gain slider anyway, I believe it’s only Madness based titles that let you go crazy with custom profiles.
For better or worse even the worst offender R3E fell out of multiple user controllable effects in favor of physics driven force feedback.
If I watch the video I can’t see a lot that could be missunderstood. And I don’t see a missunderstanding when it says adjust in-game settings first. I don’t know your approach and it wasn’t about a person. It’s about the video
The tutorial says exactly the opposite
These are questions, not comments. You maybe find the kindness to answer them. The tutorial says not “turn in-game settings to zero”, it says and shows to adjust them. Maybe you take the time to watch it. Seems you didn’t had the time yet