I’m pretty sure you misunderstand or have read wrong
Because it is always recommended to turn all ingame affects to zero and turn down ingame FFB before adjusting settings in true drive. I dont think anyone is arguing against this
I think this is your misunderstanding of the approach we (I) take or what Granite means by adjust ingame settings first
And the rest of your comment is the usual mambo jumbo we often see
Majority of sims have essentially just gain slider anyway, I believe it’s only Madness based titles that let you go crazy with custom profiles.
For better or worse even the worst offender R3E fell out of multiple user controllable effects in favor of physics driven force feedback.
If I watch the video I can’t see a lot that could be missunderstood. And I don’t see a missunderstanding when it says adjust in-game settings first. I don’t know your approach and it wasn’t about a person. It’s about the video
The tutorial says exactly the opposite
These are questions, not comments. You maybe find the kindness to answer them. The tutorial says not “turn in-game settings to zero”, it says and shows to adjust them. Maybe you take the time to watch it. Seems you didn’t had the time yet
Its been a long time since we made that video. I do not want to watch it now 
But the main idea is to adjust the in-game strength first so that there is no clipping in FFB, and then adjust the overall FFB strength via True Drive afterwards. This way you will avoid dangerous full torque thumb breaking levels of FFB when you hit walls or other cars.
I do not think the video was meant to contain any other aspects of tuning.
That is exactly what I quoted from the video and how I understand it. Nothing has changed in terms of validity.
For Paddock,
We added WRC Generations, Dakar Desert Rally today.
Also recently we updated the software stack to latest software packages. Please report if there are any new issues.
Also recently, we finally found an issue where “unexpected error” occurred sometimes when logging in, requiring to retry for no apparant reason. Its been fixed now.
True Drive profiles will have 100% DirectInput Friction and Damping by default. It will be a good starting point for all
From the upcoming release… Can you please precise this? And approximately when is the download available?
I assume there is a new firmware coming with it, correct?
yes, new firmware is coming, there is a few support cases ongoing that we are also adding debug data for, and we aim to get the package released soon.
Old True Drive / firmware releases load old default setting when trying to load any new/updated profile file with the new default values, so we can remain in a good safe condition for those that do not update to the latest version.
I do not see WRC generations at all, missing something?
It might require one more deployment step from our side.
I found this on my point, that, when we compare our settings in TD and how we feel FFB the size, weight and quality of steering wheels is to be taken into consideration:
Question is:
Will a varying diameter steering wheel be helpful?
Answer:
It can help you a bit with change in steering effort. But on the other side the road vibration will be either amplified or attenuated depending on increase in size or reduction.
Hi community,
I hesitated to update Truedrive to the Paddock version until now as I did not see any benefit for me, but potentially just more problems.
Since it’s quite some time I finally updated now and sadly it turned out exactly like that - I don’t see benefits, but I did exprience problems I did not have befor and I find it way more inefficient/complicated to be used.
Regularly I feel hardly any feedback - defenitely not the correct amount of feedback in iRacing - when I start using it.
After I start the computer True Drive lists “Read-only safe profile” as active profile and not the iRacing Default profile which I tried to configure as such. It does say Device connected and it shows an orange mark at the iRacing Default profile, but it obfiously does not load it.
The only way I can make the feedback work correctly is that I have to manually choose my iRacing profile, click edit, clickt edit FFB, click OK and then it shows "Paddock Profile: iRacing Default as Active Profile.
So what used to be loaded perfectly fine automatically in my old local True Drive just with starting it, I need to go through 5-6 clicks now in order to get there…
And quite often I forget about it, start driving, find feedback terrible, get confused what’s going on, until I reconfigure True Drive…
This can’t be the way. Please let me know how this is working better - how a given default setup is reliably loaded by default, otherwise I have to downgrade again to a 2 year old version… : (
I’ll try to get used to it, but so far this new concept does not work for me at all and I don’t see the point in the whole thing as other online profiles do not make any sense in highly customized simulators where everything is different to another simulator… It just makes things so much more complicated and less reliable… : (
2021.9 is the last version supporting Classic (offline) version. If you want to update from 2 year old version and avoid dealing with Paddock use this one.
There weren’t any new features or critical bug fixes since then anyway.
Thx. But I updated already to the new version. I just tried to use the Classic version, but it says that the Firmware is too new and does not offer to re-install the old one.
How can I re-install the old Firmware in order to use the Classic version again?
In addition to the above problem I recently experience another actually dangerous problem in iRacing. Quite often (basically in every session) the steering continues in a given direction like being stuck and/or start to shake extremely hard and dangerous out of nowhere. I don’t know if this is related with the new True Drive Paddock / Firmware, or latest iRacing changes, but I experience this now since I use the Paddock/Firmware version and I hurt my wrists and thumbs multiple times already. The Ultimate wheelbase going beserk is no fun at all!
So in order to test that, I need to fall back to the older Classic version/Firmware - how can I do that?
I followed the instructions in the post to downgrade and it seems to have worked just fine for me. It was a pleasure to import all old profiles with one click and it’s so much easier and more efficient to use… I am not going to change back to the new version any time soon.
I don’t know… plenty of questionable, complicated features are getting implemented while others many years old - still won’t work properly (eg the Ultimate filters are still early access for many years by now and don’t do what they are supposed to do at all) or other issues like the ridiculous CPU load for the page showing the steering wheel (6% CPU usage on an Intel i7-11700k) is also not getting improved…
I personally think it would be good to get things right, before adding a bunch of super complicated things on top, but ok. I hope I will be able to use this old 2021.9 version as long as possible… Thx for the info that this is the last classic version!
Thanks for the feedback. We are looking into the issue where the default profile is not loading properly for some reason.
This is not a huge issue as the update rate of the graphics is much reduced when the window is not the active window.
I’m still on 2021.7 and it’s been issue free. I may have not had FFB once or twice when turning the base on but cycling the power off and on has solved that. So far 2020.10 and 2021.7 have been the best versions in my opinion. I haven’t tested any firmwares after trying 2021.9