We have tried playing with various LUTs a couple of weeks ago but did not notice any issue with scrub. Also it didn’t seem to add anything positive, so the whole idea was discarded.
Did it actually load, I definitely had bumped low level details like road effect but scrub was gone, completely. 
My lut. Just remove .txt.
lfb.lut.txt (202 Bytes)
If you check AppData\Local\AC2\Saved\Logs\AC2.log you should see it gets loaded and applied.
[2021.06.05-19.08.02:639][444]LogKsPhysics: Loading FF Post Processing parameters
[2021.06.05-19.08.02:639][444]LogKsPhysics: Type: LUT
[2021.06.05-19.08.02:643][444]LogKsPhysics: Loading curve from:C:\Users\xxx\Documents/Assetto Corsa Competizione/Config/lfb.lut
[2021.06.05-19.08.02:643][444]LogKsPhysics: Loading lut C
[2021.06.05-19.08.02:643][444]LogKsPhysics: 0.000000 : 0.000000
[2021.06.05-19.08.02:643][444]LogKsPhysics: 0.050000 : 0.150000
[2021.06.05-19.08.02:643][444]LogKsPhysics: 0.100000 : 0.200000
. . .
But I’ve come to the same conclusion, it’s not worth it.
Original FFB as is is better. I even dumped SFR, it was making wheel mushy when cornering.
Hi all, I’ve tried many settings recommended by many contributors, fiddled with many settings and I was always feeling undecided and confused about how the FFB felt and continued to chase “the perfect FFB”.
IIRC 2 weeks ago I saw a post by @Mika stating that the simple mode would be sufficient for most people and decided to try it. After trying various combinations it felt pretty good with Smoothness: Minimal and Damping: Raw and I decided to stick with it for ACC; I can feel the tyre scrub, car feels connected to the road and FFB is lively.
Instead of trying to catch the tail of the dragon I think it’ll be much better to stick to one setting and get used to it. So, give it a try and let me know what you think, cheers!
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I had better “feel” of the front of the car with my $150 craigslist TMX wheel than I do with SC2pro after 2+weeks of adjusting every setting there is including setting up profiles based off posts here and tweaking each one at a time. I looked for the ffb post_process.ini and its not there. The front tire traction / slip is SO VAUGE it’s impossible to tell what the car is doing. I’m finding it nearly impossible to get a car consistent at 97+% of the limit whereas I was fully able to drive on the ragged edge with my TMX very well.
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Post your in game and TD settings as well as version of TD you are using.
Also have you tried to uninstall ACC, delete its Documents folder and install fresh?
Slip effect is not too pronounced in ACC but definitely there esp after tires warm up.
Andrew i tried your LUT and indeed it raises low level. Without being an expert on this i think there are not enough reference points in the file. Maybe that is the reason you are missing the details. Anyway as we both said it is just not worth it…
Now after going back and forth with my settings, i have reached to the following the last week which for me seem to be the best thing i can get out of ACC. I get good enough information on what is happening, good responsiveness and reasonable snapback. Here they are in case you guys wanna try them.
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If you are after details, limiting TBW is not the right direction.
Call me old fashioned but after all these different settings I’ve tried in the last couple of weeks I’ve returned back to my original.
Seems like even removing Damper and Friction that indeed adds a bit of details makes it feel like driving on overinflated tires.
Static Force Reduction does work in general and help overcoming strong FFB in corners but also throws things out of balance with wheel starting feeling “mushy” at some unexpected times.
I have not tried reinstall of ACC, but I suppose its worth trying as a next step. I’m actually very happy (finally) with the game performance in VR after tweaking some graphics settings so if I can get FFB to translate just a bit more info I’d be in sim nirvana!
I’ve played with dynamic damping (in-game) from 0-100 and many values in-between. I am finding that DD at 100 makes turn-in effort way too strong in some situations but many other aspects are improved. Part of my issues with how the SC2 behaves are most likely due to how FFBis implemented… I read through some of the directinput API and this seems like such an archaic way to translate forces , pretty amazed some sims are able to do what they can working with this…
Try unlimited TBW and easier on filters (damping, friction, inertia), check my settings linked to previous post. For turn in resistance play with Static Force Reduction, add like 10% and go up from there.
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Your ingame steering range does fit to the steering range in the True Drive software which should result in the real and virtual wheel moving NOT 1:1. Set both to 900deg and you should be fine there.
Why are you using such high filter values? I have a pretty lightweight Ascher F28 and use only 1%/1%/8% of filtering. Especially 16% of intertia will numb pretty much of that high speed force changes you actually bought that DD wheel base for.
I’m also using only 70% of dynamic damping ingame as the FFB gets to strong for my likings in high speed corners, but I still like the Gyro effect that comes with it.
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^^ D_Goelz: I am not sure why people keep pushing these thoughts. I use even higher settings on a much larger servo, and am very happy with how ffb feels.
Been on this wheels since 2014, the smoother reel is by far what I prefer over the noisy ffb a lot seem to like. But that is the beauty of these wheels, there is a setting for everyone.
The key point here is that everyone prefers something different, whether it be right or wrong in your opinion. What suits y0u might not suit someone else, and vice versa. There is no golden rule, use whatever works for you.
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I absolutely agree with you in any point, but I don’t think the statement is valid for this discussion as the guy I was replying to, was obviously really unhappy with the feel he is getting from his SC2 
So I was just pointing to things which caught my intention and are in my opinion suboptimal for a good feeling on the wheel in ACC so that he can try some things to get a better feeling for the car.
From my POV (competing at highest level in ACC) I would never turn up the filters higher than needed to just get a more smoother feel. I want the fastest possible force reaction on the wheel to drive the cars at their absolute limit and have the fastest possible hint that front or rear wheel are loosing traction.
But like you said, each to their own. Somebody who is interested in a more relaxed experience would probably like a more smooth drive (and btw my settings with the lower filter numbers are also smooth as silk )
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You make fair comments, no issues. My point stands though that it is very difficult for anyone to advise anyone else in what is good vs bad settings, as there really isn’t good or bad for everyone, just good or bad for each one themselves.
What you advocate as good, imho, is pretty terrible and raw, just a spiky messy ffb signal with no relevance to reality. What I advocate as good, you will see as soft and smooth and devoid of information.
So who is right, who is wrong? We both are right for our own preferences, wrong for the other’s.
Personally, having being involved even in development if the SC1 and SC2, I know what constitutes smooth and what not. Depending on your recon filter settings, I suspect your ffb is pretty raw. But again, this is fine, as it is all about what one prefers:)
That’s the beauty of the SC2, there is a setting for everyone.
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I wound up higher with inertia just to improve the feeling around center, the damping might be an artifact of having ULL mode too high and trying to combat oscillations. I’ve learned a bit more about what each setting does in the last few weeks and the settings I have now look different; subjectively feel a bit better but each car seems to have it’s own sweet spot for the inertia value, and i’m still trying to figure out dynamic damping 100%
ACC has very clean 333hz FFB signal that needs little to no additional smothing, and dynamic damper that pretty much makes any additional damping redundant.
There is very little technical reason to go crazy with these filters as you just lose details and dynamics.
Detailed is not necessarily spiky or noisy in this scenario.
Personal preferences as always make one settings subjectively better or worse, find what better suits you.
Hi do you mind sharing your SC2 TD setting for ACC?
It’s pretty much these settings except I’ve added 5% of Damper and Friction later (Constantly operated, not DI), not an absolute must just to weight wheel down a bit.
Andrew could you link me good settings for SC1 with a large Mige please?
He drives both versions of Assetto.
I have been helping a guy get his newly bought used SC1 up and running and I have never used anything other than iRacing since 2013.
Thanks,
Joe
Hi Joe,
In game settings should not be different except gain which is a personal thing anyway and SC1 settings should map 1:1 to TD of SC2, perhaps with some adjustments for less smooth Mige motor which might require slightly higher recon I’d guess.