Im a fan of these type of setings!!! Clean, no big upscaling and then damping down. I use them for F1 to rally. All what changes is the overall force, steering range and sometimes a bit static reduction. Recon filters from off to max 4, torque bandwith I like unlimitet the most. These are settings I understand. Concerning the overall torque I am mostly around 40 to 50% and that is my sport.
This is an update to my previous settings posted in Aug 21 with some more refinement and a bit less filtered. I have been playing with these for a few weeks and i am finally at a happy place. The idea is the same as with the previous ones so you may refer to that post as well:
Updated settings
You will noticed i decreased the CM gain from the settings of August, if you are on a sport or ultimate please adjust accordingly to have an equal strength.
One more thing you can experiment with is the Output real steering forces to wheel (just tick/untick it, do not touch anything else on the section). In found out it adds something nice to the feeling.
Also it is very important to set the in-race ffb strength per car correctly (FFB Controller). If you set it too high the rebound forces could be too harsh, set it too low then it will be bleh. Many cars should be ok between 95-105, others need to go to 80, drift mods in the 60-70s. Play with it until you find what is right for you.
Cheers
2 Likes
So many weird things with these settings. DOR 1190, when AC only supports 1180, Slew rate limit at only 0.15 nm, overall strength 95% (why not 100), DI damping 12% (AC by default only uses it stationary, but I see you set min damper gain at 10%, 10 x 0.12 = 1.2%, why even bother, SC damper filter is much better), ULL that AC does not need as there is no oscillation with stock gyro but it can add some weird side effects, Static Force reduction which felt horrible in AC as it has low end forces quite exaggerated already.
Of course everyone is free to use whatever they like, itās just super odd combo of mostly random things that I personally would never recommend to anyone.
Wondering if all that stuff needed just to make CSP ācorrectedā Gyro work satisfactory. Just dump that thing, itās not really worth it with DD wheels.
Iād really appreciate you posting your suggested settings for a realistic tire & road surface feeling in AC that is not specific to a single car type/class.
Iād love to toss them in to compare them to the updated settings posted by Panschoin. Please be specific in what settings you want in AC/CSP/CM as well as TD and Iāll follow them. Thank you.
I am a simple man and let sim speak what itās intended to say without getting much in a way.
Kunos titles do not need much fancy stuff to alter the signal unless you come from some different sim and trying to make AC feel like something else.
My settings
- Adjust in game gain to your personal liking/physical strength.
- If you feel too much details coming through as āgrainā, increase Reconstruction filter to 3, AC doesnāt need more unless you are after something silky smooth.
- If need to weight wheel down more, add more friction (non DI)
- To make it less reactive, add more damping (non DI)
If you dislike stock Gyro, disable and use more damping and friction (both non DI) and some ULL to counter SAT snapback effect and tame oscillation down. For majority of DD users stock Gyro is the best compromise.
But you need to figure out what is wrong with your unit first, what you described is not normal, regardless of settings.
EDIT: Almost forgot, in case you wondering why Damper gain is at 0% in AC FFB settings and in TD DI Damper, AC have had some bug when stationary damper wasnāt completely cleared after car moving and was affecting feedback in a not very positive way.
1 Like
Mate read better next time. 2nd as I said, not gonna debate with you or anyone. Done that many times already and itās pointless, you are only stuck with your settings and thatās it. With all due respect I have actually tried many times what you have posted and sorry to say but they are far away from what a car should feel like imo. But hell your are free to play with whatever you feel is right for you, as I am free to use whatever setting i feel are right. People can try them and decide for themselves, so pleaseā¦
1 Like
AC max dor is 1200Ā°, same as ACC
One thing I would like to ask is the limitation of slew rate to almost 0. If the force per time in ms is drastically small isnāt then the FFB aswell affected?
It reduces the speed of the wheel which is necessary for me to feel realistic in drifting and rebound forces in general especially for AC. The stock gyro helps that so does not need it, but it causes other issues as have explained in my first post in August. No gyro at all needs too much filtering causing a heavy sluggish wheel as well. The last option was the csp gyro and surprisingly that worked well for me. I have spent weeks trying all available options to reach to that settings. Try them out and see for yourself if they fit you or not.
Is it via ini file editing as it was always 1180 in UI?
I see, I misspoke 1080 instead of 1180 in my post above, thanks for catching.
ACC is indeed 1200, but AC maxes out at 1180.
1 Like
Yes also in my post you saw the 1180 dor for 1190, while the 1190 is for the bump stop, just to clarifyā¦
With CSP HW lock enabled AC will communicate to SC API hardware lock based on car in use.
And bumpstop in SC were fixed long time ago to start apply stop at specified range, not end, which indeed required higher DOR. Sorry, may be you explained it somewhere but I missed it.
Ok yes you are right itās probably a leftover thing and I guess not needed anymore, but it doesnāt hurtā¦ also I think the cobra and f40 have high DOR probably maxing the 1180. Thank god we have the hw lock, it solved issues for sureā¦
2 Likes
Those TD settings are the ones I was referring to. They work almost everywhere if not everywhere. Adjust torque and there you go.
New user, on here and with a spanking new SC2 Pro and after working through my collection of sims tonight, AC has me stumped with an issue that i canāt seem to tune out.
Kunos track/car, or mod track/car or a combination of eitherā¦when stationary on the track thereās a shaking of the wheel that is there until you move off and also at the point where your braking and just about to stop. The only thing that seems to dull it down is setting the reconstruction filter up high, is that the way to do it or is there a setting i might have missed either in TD or content manager?
Cheers. 
Which settings are you using? You could add some DI damping. In my settings posted earlier I am using this and donāt have any such issues. Also avoid high recon it is not neededā¦
Kunos for stationary conditions using DI Damping, thatās the only thing I can think of that could cause that.
Set it to 0 either in AC FFB settings or TD and see if it helps, youāll lose most wheel resistance when stationary but signal should be cleaner without it even when moving.
Also try to disable all CSP FFB Tweaks, they can also cause some weird things.
Cheers for the tips, but no matter what i still get that resonance at v low speeds when moving off from a standstill (1-3kmh) and the only thing that seems to lower it is the resonance filter.
Iāve tried removing CSP and going through vanilla AC but to no availā¦i know itās a non issue once doing what cars are supposed to do and actually driving 'em, but itās just one of those niggles that bugs me. 
Question: Is there a differrence in keeping the gain at 100 in CM and reducing the FFB ingame vs reducing it to 45% in CM and higher ingame FFB?