No gyro can help with lap times, try it out.
Also although i know the problem of software lock when hitting the bumpstops, i set wheel tool and in game at 1200 degrees and software lock on, and i enjoy it more. Ofc it is not suitable for f1 and cars with limited steering degrees but for gt3 it is perfect.
If you are using CSP, just enable Hardware Lock (experimental), look at my screenshot above, that will adjust lock based on car model.
Without gyro you just need more dampening and may be ULL to counter oscillation and SAT, it works, there are pluses and minuses with each approach.
Can’t say I am slower with gyro, but it could be just a matter of developed habit. AC introduced gyro few years after release so we all raced without one before.
You can do some stuff like pass curbs without even flinching with no gyro.
Software lock and hardware lock in theory will do the same thing but when you have time do a test like a said with 1200 in game and tool with software lock and tell me if it has the same feeling.
It’s all fine, while I really don’t understand what you are trying to say about locks, gyro usage is a personal choice, nothing wrong if you like it off.
I agree about gyro. You have to re do a test and see for your self about soft lock, but the fact that i like it does not mean tha you will also like it. It was just a suggestion to give it a go and tell me.
On locks.
- Bumpstops begin at exactly the same angle that is indicated in the user interface. (old behavior was to be at 100% torque at that point, so bumpstop began earlier.)
I just found out about this the hard way and now I know why it should never be used. The strength of the ‘bounce back’ once you hit the stop is plenty too strong.
I had overlooked the ticking of this box when I copied your settings over but now I’ve selected it and it seems to work in a much more controlled fashion with the SC2.
Coming back to CM and it’s multitude of settings after a long time away is a bit overwhelming and I’d be lost without all of the tips you’ve provided 
1180 is a limitation of content manager, if i remember correctly vanilla ui uses 1200 that:s why i used that. You can give content manager 1200 by typing it and ofc it registers.
It is horrible when you reach the bumpstop that’s why i said do not use it with cars that have low degrees of rotation. In terms of feeling i feel it is superior although that’s only my opinion.
1180 is the maximum supported by AC engine DOR, was that way since the dawn, has nothing to do with the alternate launcher. What cars do you drive that you are hitting bumpstops at 1200?
With CM Hardware lock pretty sure the hardness of bumpstop is controlled by what you set it in TM.
Just don’t use AC Software Lock, it’s horrible.
OK, i hope someone will have the time to test it and find it benefitial as i did.
I remember using Soft Lock a couple of years back and unless anything changed i agree with the gents @Andrew_WOT and @EsxPaul. The problem with the bumpstop not in all cars but in some with low DOR was horrible and i must say a bit dangerous with a DD. Also if my memory serves me well there was some problem with the FFB itself which didnt feel right/cosistent throughout the rotation span. The use of harware lock was game changer for me.
Finally, after a couple of weeks testing all possible combinations of FFB settings with AC I can share with you my conclusions:
• CM gyro enabled (with all possible CM and TD settings): horrible graininess in quite a few cars kunos or mods. Unrealistic cornering forces, excessive understeer feeling, weird rebound forces. Overall, ok in just a few cars, unrealistic and useless in others.
• Gyro (either CM or CSP) disabled: Had to use extreme filtering in TD with mediocre results, so that was out as well.
• CSP gyro enabled: to my surprise, with some good TD filtering I was able to work with it in all cars I tested. I got realistic cornering forces, controllable rebound forces, on/off grip, feel of suspension and oversteer. This has transformed AC for me providing the closest to IRL feeling (for AC) without a jumpy hyperactive wheel and great feeling of the car. This works for all cars (Gt3, drift, road, etc.). You can see below my settings that can act a good baseline for you:
Feel free to play with the CM effects (road & kerb) and ULL in TD. Regarding the overall gain in CM I prefer to have at 54% and then adjust it per car from the in-race FFB Controller. In a few cars 100% in-race should be ok, but for example in drift cars it could go down to even 60%, or in others up to 110%. This depends on your personal preferences and sim hardware. For me the only thing I need to find in each new car I am trying is the right amount of the in-race FFB Controller strength. The rest remain the same. I also suggest using the latest TD software and CSP.
Cheers
Jesus 
Is that an exited Jesus or a disappointed Jesus 
Will you please share these settings in True Drive Paddock?
Thanks!
Sorry mate, i am not using the paddock yet.
Thanks for putting in the time and effort to provide these settings.
They work very well for me and the only thing I need to adjust are the sudden forces experienced at the wheel when the car spins out. It seems when the front wheels steering direction is affected by the terrain. I’m getting too much power applied from the wheel and it’s borderline injury causing.
Only using the overall FFB setting in game means it has to drop way below 60% to get these spin out forces to a more manageable level and steering feels too light.
So my question is, what other settings could I use to isolate and lower this effect? I am not very experienced at FFB settings in general.
Also, are there multiple places to find and activate the gyro effect? You mentioned CM and CSP gyro?
Many thanks!
That is what CSP Gyro does at times. Try to disable it in FFB Tweaks but keep one in generic FFB settings on. You also do not need as much dampening or ULL with OEM Gyro.
Thanks, I’ll have a play with these gyro settings and strength.
You can try the Content Manager (CM) gyro as suggested by Andrew but i really doubt you will like it with the rest settings from my post. If you haven’t set the per car FFB by the FFB controller app in-race to 70-80% then the gain of 54% in CM is probably too high for most cars. You can try lowering the CM gain to 35-40 and see how that works for you. In all cases if you see that you are going to crash or whatever just take your hands off the wheel.
