You’ll have better luck by finding proper setting (TD and in game) either here, we have pretty much every sim dedicated thread with settings (just search), or on sim discussion board. There is way too much junk on paddock to sift through.
Which sim in particular are you trying to tune?
extreme torque levels seldom feel right or realistic even.
The FFB feel is subjective, so no one can say to you that a setting or config is the best there is.
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In Assetto Corsa I use 100% of torque (Sport) with Recon off/1, full bandwidth, nodamping/friction/ inertia/slew rate limitation. Only a bit of static force reduction. In CM FFB multiplier at 80 and then per car FFB.
F1: 50% in TD, rest same as above and in F1 overall FFB at 30, nothing more.
WRC Rally: 35 to 40%, in game FFB average 80 to 90.
To make a long story short, my conclusion is:
Torque is not the center of the galaxy and therefore everything must rotate around the “always 100% torque” claim of absoluteness
F1 2022 and AC with the RSS car
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I’ll give those a try. 40% in F1 felt good but I’ll see how much I can push it before it felt unrealistic
For AC you can start here, post has some general recommendations and link to settings.
FFB feel is very subjective thing, but once you learn basics you can tune it to your personal liking.
Browse the linked thread, there are settings from other users too, as well as some sometimes informative discussions.
Good luck, and try ACC, it rocks on SC2.
Good way to find your very own settings. Forgot one thing:
F1:
the wheel steering range shouldn’t be too small, it will impact the way the car behaves quite dramatically. I started with 900 and have it at 750 at the moment. Still experimenting. Plus: if you reach your maximum torque level, before you turn it back you can add “static force reduction”. You don’t have to fight against the torque in long and fast corners that much, and at the same time you still have the full FFB.
AC:
Some use 1080, 1180 or 900 steering range if I remember good. I use 900 because I drive but open wheeler cars. Just make sure you have the same in TD and AC.
Enjoy!
I dont think I have ever tried anything more than 360 on an f1 game. I am afraid more than twice that would feel like Truck Simulator. Are the simucube official true drive videos the best or are there any other videos that do a better job explaining True Drive settings?
Thanks
Here’s a another video you can have a look at
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I also started with lower settings. Then I made a test at Bahrain, there are some tight corners. While I didn’t really had to move/steer more in turns like 8/9/10, it felt much better on the rest of the track (fe11,12). Hard to explain, kind of, to me the car felt like “unfree”, sort of not having the right connection with the steering range. As it would be squeezed (hope that makes sense)
if you one day find your settings for more “realistic” feeling please feel free to share, if you have real life expierience with gt3 and/or similar i’m really interrested how this pans out (i dont have experience in such cars so i tend to find settings wich give me a “natural”/“plausible”/“reasonable” feeling)
i believe the simucube base and software is still best way to go for
Settings are as others have said very subjective…
These are what I have come up with my experience with both FFB Wheels and driving race cars in the past…
I do not really deviate from these settings for any car and run at a .595:1 ratio in iRacing which is 42Nm on the Max Force setting.
I mainly drive iRacing however with other games I have the Game strength set to around 50-60% I have to play with it a bit becasue other games are not as accurate in communicating the strength used.
One thing to note is that while realistic, they will always feel different from a similar car in real life as the digital tire is never the same as real and as you know if you do alot of Track days, just changing a tire type can cause a significant change in the way a car handles and feels.
Another thing of note is if the cars you are Tracking are production based the power steering systems are not of RACE style and generally will provide MUCH easier steering effort than a reface prep power steering system. With race prep systems they tend to use just enough pump power so the driver doesn’t fatigue (as quickly), this lets them get away with using smaller/lighter power steering pumps than you would find in your road prep cars.
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Yeah there is a private race track near my house that rents high end cars. GT3 is not the highest priced car by any means but it’s probably the best “track car there”. It has all of the top 20 times in the track
I personally would like to keep driving the more flashy cars like the Lamborghini and Ferraris but I would be interested in trying out the GT3 I am there. Given my experience so far I would say 15nm sort of feels the similar to what I experience on that race track, but I will def take in the suggestions above and just experiment. I will likely never be able to drive a real F1 car and wont have a reference to that driving experience. So as long as it feels good and i have fun, I will keep experimenting with the settings
Hello, what would be the conversion formula to get your .595:1 ratio on to an Ultimate wheel?
ie: if I have TD set to 100% 32nm, what would I need to set in iRacing (ie: your 42nm) to maintain the same strength the you have?
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32 (Ultimate 100% strength) divided by .595 (specific Output) = MAXFORCE value.
32/.595 = 53.781
So Max force at 54Nm with be a tiny tiny bit less at .592:1 (32/54=.59259)
Are you talking about a Porsche GT3 or an ACTUAL GT3 Race car?? Just curious as I have driven my friends 2018 Porsche GT3 RS and it is one heck of a car. Porsche Instructors say it is very close to a previous generation Porsche Cup Car…
After driving it I did some comparisons to iRacing and felt that (with the settings above for my wheel) the Street Spec Porsche GT3RS is about .45:1 Specific output with the Prior Gen Cup Car, However, that being said if you put the GT3RS on slick tires that number would go up and would probably fall in the .5 - .6 range as Slick tend to load everything more given their maximum grip level increases significantly.
F1 cars are interesting though… I haven’t of course driven one but given the iRacing versions are built off of actual data fro the teams I would expect their relative differences to be correct (since iRacing holds are cars in the same force scope). With that the F1 cars are actually MUCH lighter in steering weight than most of the GT3 Race cars and even the lower ranked F3’s, etc… I was a little surprised at this until I though about the nature of the cars…
My theory is that the F1 cars do have additional steering boost to make them lighter in real life due to the tremendous additional forces exerted on the driver by way of G-Forces. This keeps a driver able to not completely deplete their energy by balancing their exertion as if they had IndyCar level non power steering weight in addition to Massive Cornering, Braking, and acceleration G’s, the drivers would be absolutely exhausted at the end of a race (which you actually do see every so often in IndyCars) but very, very, rarely in F1. Granted in Sim you don’t get the G-Forces so the car feels pretty light comparatively.
If you have a Motoec file from a few laps then I can give you very specific statements and tips for a better FFB.
Unfortunately, it only works with IRacing and RFactor2.
Yeah, Porsche GT3 RS
Ah thanks Brion! I didn’t realise it was such a simple Formula.
Do you by chance have a formula for working out the best slew rate for an Ultimate wheel?
Or is 3.25 a good setting for all wheels?
What’s slew rate and what does it do?