Jesus 
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Is that an exited Jesus or a disappointed Jesus 
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Will you please share these settings in True Drive Paddock?
Thanks!
Sorry mate, i am not using the paddock yet.
Thanks for putting in the time and effort to provide these settings.
They work very well for me and the only thing I need to adjust are the sudden forces experienced at the wheel when the car spins out. It seems when the front wheels steering direction is affected by the terrain. I’m getting too much power applied from the wheel and it’s borderline injury causing.
Only using the overall FFB setting in game means it has to drop way below 60% to get these spin out forces to a more manageable level and steering feels too light.
So my question is, what other settings could I use to isolate and lower this effect? I am not very experienced at FFB settings in general.
Also, are there multiple places to find and activate the gyro effect? You mentioned CM and CSP gyro?
Many thanks!
That is what CSP Gyro does at times. Try to disable it in FFB Tweaks but keep one in generic FFB settings on. You also do not need as much dampening or ULL with OEM Gyro.
Thanks, I’ll have a play with these gyro settings and strength.
You can try the Content Manager (CM) gyro as suggested by Andrew but i really doubt you will like it with the rest settings from my post. If you haven’t set the per car FFB by the FFB controller app in-race to 70-80% then the gain of 54% in CM is probably too high for most cars. You can try lowering the CM gain to 35-40 and see how that works for you. In all cases if you see that you are going to crash or whatever just take your hands off the wheel.
Having started my DD chapter in iRacing, I’m hard wired to take my hands off the wheel, but it’s those innocent slow speed nudges into barriers, small bumps off track and more importantly, while trying to save the car from spinning, that moment when you lose the back end and suddenly the wheel forces seem to accelerate before you have a chance to take your hands away, that I’m looking to iron out.
For a while now, I’ve been using your previous settings which I really liked and usually set the in game FFB to 80-85%. With these new settings the in game FFB is between 60-80%. So perhaps lowering the CM gain is a good shout. My previous CM gain was 37% as per your previous settings in this thread.
Anyway, thanks to both of you. You’ve put me on the right track for sure! 
Just to add, these issues weren’t as bad yesterday when I was driving modern GT500 cars but today I was driving vintage cars without power steering so perhaps this is why the forces have seemed so strong.
Oh ok, well vintage cars with high DOR can be a problem indeed e.g. the cobra…Anyway do your testing and play with setting to see what fits you better.
Unlike iRacing and AMS2, AC FFB is very mild on collisions, at least in stock form. “Corrected” gyro can do some fancy stuff though esp. if there is a problem with car model suspension.
Either use stock gyro, or if you completely dislike it, turn it off and compensate with extra damping/friction/ULL. CSP Gyro can be wonderful and awful at the same time.
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Im a fan of these type of setings!!! Clean, no big upscaling and then damping down. I use them for F1 to rally. All what changes is the overall force, steering range and sometimes a bit static reduction. Recon filters from off to max 4, torque bandwith I like unlimitet the most. These are settings I understand. Concerning the overall torque I am mostly around 40 to 50% and that is my sport.
This is an update to my previous settings posted in Aug 21 with some more refinement and a bit less filtered. I have been playing with these for a few weeks and i am finally at a happy place. The idea is the same as with the previous ones so you may refer to that post as well:
Updated settings
You will noticed i decreased the CM gain from the settings of August, if you are on a sport or ultimate please adjust accordingly to have an equal strength.
One more thing you can experiment with is the Output real steering forces to wheel (just tick/untick it, do not touch anything else on the section). In found out it adds something nice to the feeling.
Also it is very important to set the in-race ffb strength per car correctly (FFB Controller). If you set it too high the rebound forces could be too harsh, set it too low then it will be bleh. Many cars should be ok between 95-105, others need to go to 80, drift mods in the 60-70s. Play with it until you find what is right for you.
Cheers
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So many weird things with these settings. DOR 1190, when AC only supports 1180, Slew rate limit at only 0.15 nm, overall strength 95% (why not 100), DI damping 12% (AC by default only uses it stationary, but I see you set min damper gain at 10%, 10 x 0.12 = 1.2%, why even bother, SC damper filter is much better), ULL that AC does not need as there is no oscillation with stock gyro but it can add some weird side effects, Static Force reduction which felt horrible in AC as it has low end forces quite exaggerated already.
Of course everyone is free to use whatever they like, it’s just super odd combo of mostly random things that I personally would never recommend to anyone.
Wondering if all that stuff needed just to make CSP “corrected” Gyro work satisfactory. Just dump that thing, it’s not really worth it with DD wheels.
I’d really appreciate you posting your suggested settings for a realistic tire & road surface feeling in AC that is not specific to a single car type/class.
I’d love to toss them in to compare them to the updated settings posted by Panschoin. Please be specific in what settings you want in AC/CSP/CM as well as TD and I’ll follow them. Thank you.
I am a simple man and let sim speak what it’s intended to say without getting much in a way.
Kunos titles do not need much fancy stuff to alter the signal unless you come from some different sim and trying to make AC feel like something else.
My settings
- Adjust in game gain to your personal liking/physical strength.
- If you feel too much details coming through as “grain”, increase Reconstruction filter to 3, AC doesn’t need more unless you are after something silky smooth.
- If need to weight wheel down more, add more friction (non DI)
- To make it less reactive, add more damping (non DI)
If you dislike stock Gyro, disable and use more damping and friction (both non DI) and some ULL to counter SAT snapback effect and tame oscillation down. For majority of DD users stock Gyro is the best compromise.
But you need to figure out what is wrong with your unit first, what you described is not normal, regardless of settings.
EDIT: Almost forgot, in case you wondering why Damper gain is at 0% in AC FFB settings and in TD DI Damper, AC have had some bug when stationary damper wasn’t completely cleared after car moving and was affecting feedback in a not very positive way.
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Mate read better next time. 2nd as I said, not gonna debate with you or anyone. Done that many times already and it’s pointless, you are only stuck with your settings and that’s it. With all due respect I have actually tried many times what you have posted and sorry to say but they are far away from what a car should feel like imo. But hell your are free to play with whatever you feel is right for you, as I am free to use whatever setting i feel are right. People can try them and decide for themselves, so please…
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AC max dor is 1200°, same as ACC
One thing I would like to ask is the limitation of slew rate to almost 0. If the force per time in ms is drastically small isn’t then the FFB aswell affected?
It reduces the speed of the wheel which is necessary for me to feel realistic in drifting and rebound forces in general especially for AC. The stock gyro helps that so does not need it, but it causes other issues as have explained in my first post in August. No gyro at all needs too much filtering causing a heavy sluggish wheel as well. The last option was the csp gyro and surprisingly that worked well for me. I have spent weeks trying all available options to reach to that settings. Try them out and see for yourself if they fit you or not.