Please post your current TD settings. Maybe there is something fundamentally wrong. Also paddock profiles aren’t the holy grail.
A direct drive is meant to replicate the signal send by the game and to feel the small details, you need to run a high overall strength. These low end wheels add software effects to give more sense of details, but it’s fake.
My mate has a trustmaster tgt2 and I have the SC2 Pro and the difference is night and day in favour of my Simucube. But when he comes to my house he can’t drive it because he’s not used to these forces.
I’ve tried and owned multiple DD systems from DD2 to Sim Steering 2 and the SC2 is my favourite. So I’m sure yours should be functioning fine with the correct profile.
And if you still think there is something wrong, do you have a friend or shop that has a Simucube base? Then you can go there and test the bases side by side to see if there’s any difference.
Hi mate thanks for taking the time.
I don’t mean to sound ungrateful but i feel me posting my TD settings will not help in any way as obviously i don’t feel what i should be feeling whenever using the countless people’s TD setting and in game settings with the way my base is working and i’m positive if i was to send my setting along with the custom FFB i’m using to make my wheel feel decent you will only be left thinking WTF.
As for low end wheels adding software effects which might be fake as you say, unfortunately without it i can not feel grip level or weight of the car even things like gear change can’t be felt yet once running the low end Custom FFB they can be felt and have so much more information coming through the wheel especially at the centre of the wheel. The wheel just feels tight and precise ( not to be mistaken with heavy)which is possibly what everyone feels but i only feel it when running the custom file.
Another note any Paddock profile i use all feel crap when using on default and as soon as i kick in the low end Profile they all feel terrific and would happily run any of those TD setting all day long.
The amount of information the wheel sends out between running the Low end file and not running it is night and day. TD settings make no real impact its more a little bit of smoothing out and fine tuning whats there but with out me running the Low end file there is nothing to fine tune.
I live in Malta and unfortunately don’t know of anyone with an SC2 nor am i aware of any shops who will sell them here.
Thanks once again for your help.
Could you maybe give an example which contains:
2 simulations you like the most, where at least 1 is with Formula cars? Not older than maybe 4/5 years, no Mods used, nothing added, just a sim in its original state? Fe an F1 title from 18 to 21, a rally title from WRC 8 to 10, ACC would all be good.
In order to really understand what bothers you it’s a must to have:
Your in-game settings with steering range, FFB settings, all about fuel amount, driving aids, preset that you maybe use.
Your TD settings AND information on the steering wheel you use. Extension added, what QR you have.
I know, sounds a bit complicated but without these infos everyone willing to help has his hands cuffed.
I’m not sure if you did provide all before, based on what you wrote in the latest post I assume you didn’t.
Most running a Simucube started with a wheel like G29, some like @Andrew_WOT have years of experience, @phillip.vanrensburg knows every little detail from hard and software. @Mika doesn’t have a teddy bear in his bed but a Simucube.
The list of skilled persons is huge, I can’t list them all.
If you are frustrated to a limit where you don’t want to do this, then try this:
Buy a title on a platform offering discounts and get yourself an easy title. If you like F1 get one of them because setup is very easy in terms of recognition. Start at easy level, use overall FFB only at 20 and in TD at 20. Recon 1, rest default. No details? Add in-game a little bit, then in TD. Till you have a level of torque you are happy with. Use either a car setup from in-game or 1 from steam workshop (Gattlik provide a ton of them). Drive with 10 to max 20 kilo of fuel and with the softest tyres available.
If you want us to help debug the issue, we have to start from the beginning and go over every factor that could be in play. And that’s game and TD settings. TD settings can really break the experience if they are not right.
For example I tried AC once and I didn’t like it at all. I have superb settings for iRacing, but the same profile was shit on AC and the wheel was fighting itself. Something like reverse oscillations, probably because of a filter that work fine in iRacing, but not in ACC.
So please post your settings and maybe we spot something that shouldn’t be there. You want help, so let’s start with step 1.
You don’t use “correct” Gyro implementation from CM by any chance, it will cause a lot of oscillation and strong snap back unless wheel is severely dampened. Try with original Kunos gyro.
For AC settings this could be a good start, but it’s all personal so feel free to adjust to you liking, especially gain
Gents just a quick shout out to all of you for taking the time to try and help me out and my apologies for not having responded to some of you as i’ve have been busy trying out suggestions and set ups and comparing notes with some of you all week, if anything i was a little overwhelmed at all your response, great bunch of lads on here many many thanks!!
From what i’ve gathered after this testing and confirmation of should and shouldn’t be felt through the wheel in these games is it seems what i’m experiencing is more down to game compatibility between certain games and the SC2 rather then any issues with my unit it self and hence why my impression was that there was something might be wrong with My SC2 as with my old thrusmaster i could enjoy certain games yet now struggle to play them at all with the vague feeling i get with SC2 no matter how many changes and different TD profiles i made.
Once again many thanks for all your help and suggestions.
P.s. Shout out to all you super cleaver gents out there who spend countless hours of your own time creating these custom files so the rest of us can unlock the true potential and experience our SC2 in all their glory, my hat off to you gents!!
Seriously hate to think what my purchase would of been like if not for all your hard work, many thanks.
I dont agree at all.
When you say more details, my interpretation of your “more details” is for me noisy/grainy/cogging effects, it’s not details, it’s parasite unwanted effects due to the old belt technology.
I used to have a noisy/grainy/cogging FFB, I had the ts pc racer, and you are used to these parasite effects too.
But no way the ts pc racer has more details, it the opposite, with F1 cars and most of the cars, the ts pc racer clips, and I had zero detail in most of the turns, with the SC2 pro, I have all the details and a strong FFB, the main reason for me to buy a SC2 pro, to have more details and stronger FFB, and it’s exactly what I have.
End of the debate, if there was one.
Soon I will publish a full article about SC 2 pro vs Fanatec vs belt wheel, for my full SC2 review.
Look forward to reading your article mate.
As for the detail i used to feel on the thrustmaster, noisy/grainy… call it what you will i’m not here to argue but all i can say is it used to give me a sense of feel and level of traction in certain games which allowed me to play these games and is no longer there with the SC2 and instead left with a dead floating sensation.
Time and again i have went back to this game and still feels unplayable now.
Since my post i have spend countless hours with guys on here very kindly helping me out and when asked like for like of what they can and can’t feel they have pretty much all confirmed that floating sensation in these games is the same for them.
As for being used to that feeling grainy/cogging, i can assure you i have used nothing but my SC2 for the last 2 years and love it to bits with games that allow for custom FFB files but struggle with any default ffb settings.
BTW i had a TX wheel and once had the opportunity to use TS PC Racer along with a friend of mine who also had a TX and we were both shocked at how coggy the TS felt compared to the TX so i defiantly understand about what you mean about the cogging feel and its definitely not that.
Tell me the games you have a bad feeling and post your TD FFB, I will give you mine.
Dirt rally 2 is made for gamepad, WRC game too, AMS2 has the same FFB than Project cars 2.
Did you try a game made for DD wheels, like rFactor 2, ACC or iRacing or Raceroom ?
It’s where the SC2 is used at 100%, even if for DR2.0 or WRC or AMS2, I have a better feeling than with my ts pc racer cause I have a stronger FFB and more details.
I had the TX, and it’s so worst than the ts pc, that I have used it only 2 weeks before switching to ts pc racer (TX has so low power that it clips everytime with so few details).
It took only 3 days (with 2 hours of gameplay by day) to learn the TD software and to have my favorite raw FFB with full of details.
I have very high standards, and no way the TX or TS PC have more details than my SC2 pro.
Try my settings, it’s very raw.
First in every game set min force to 0.
Then if you want to become more live into your rig and your experience…add minimum one buttkicker oder sinuslive with an AMP to your rig to simulate eg only motor or chassis Vibration. Use this with simvibe or simhub. They are not really expensive but they will fill your lack of experience in combination with your wheel, describing in your first post here. Believe me.
Best greetings
Hi Tobi,
I actually run a 8 shaker set up and have one under the wheel as you can see in the pic below which i thought i would no longer need once i got the SC2 but it still adds so much especially when hitting rumble strips or on idle with a cammy engine but most of all as it helps keep the same consistence and balance of intensity through out the rig.
Yes i totally agree with you regards with the SC2 having bucket loads more detail in certain games and also games like AMS2 once you can play around with a custom FFB file but games like Dirt 2.0 before i could play with a thrustmaster or logitech yet for me is just unplayable with the SC2 no matter how many times i went back to it and tried different settings.
You mentioned DR2.0 is made for Gamepad and perhaps it’s why for me it seems to work better with a lower end wheel but not with the SC2.
Also yes to forces are stronger of whatever detail is coming through with the SC2 but tell me do you actually feel any sense of tire scrub in DR2.0 with the SC2 as so far every one i have asked have always replied no and hence this floating sensation i mention.
If you want PM me your settings for DR2.0 and i can try them out mate.
regards
show me your setting, I have my own setting, and I can say with confidence it’s as good, for me it’s better, as with ts pc racer, and I have used 2000hours a ts pc racer, and if I say it’s as good or better in DR2.0, trust me it is.
I’m sure you do something wrong.
It took me 3 min to have a good FFB.
Mate i no longer have my own settings for it as i’ve tried so many suggestions from different people which do not give scrub feel that i’ve excepted it now and simply walked away from the game.
Like i said mate unless you can genuinely tell me that you can actually feel scrub and a sense of where traction you’d be the first, otherwise it’s a pointless exercise.
TD settings has no baring on this missing information not being felt in the wheel.
the tyre slip effect is greyed out for ALL the wheels, but only for gamepads.
Stop saying you’ve felt more scrub with your TX it’s 100% bullshit.
And I have no issue with the DR2.0 FFB, not the best, but ok for me.
The ONLY WAY to feel the scrub is to use ACCUFORCE v2, with the FFB from the telemetry, the users have reported they are the only one who can feel the scrub.
Tony, i recently realized that wheel and tyre friction are basically like a dampener introducing too much delay…so i suggest turning them to 0 and better use some damping on TD. Also as far as scrub, i wonder how much scrub one can feel in a rally car on gravel or dirt or ice or snow…DR2 in tarmac anyway is practically shit, with the right settings it is just driveable, so yeah this discussion is pointless i think.
I haven’t read every response of the last few from the last time I posted but noticed that the discussion has com to things felt through the wheel such as vibrations and things like that…
One thing that if you have driven alot of different cars and REALLY, REALLY think about what you feel through the wheel from Road cars to Race Cars is that in many times you actually feel ver little vibration through the wheel Even when running over curbs. Steering feel is actually very much DEAD. but when something big enough is exerted on the tires that wants to alter the slip angle you will then feel it in the wheel… 95% or more of the vibration you feel while driving in real life is through the chassis of the car which emirates from vibration running throught the tires and wheel into the suspension arms, through the mountings of the suspension and the shocks and springs into the chassis and through your backside… Most all of this vibration is filtered out of the steering system by the bushings and rack used in the car and if the car has power or electric steering even less comes through.
This is why using vibration modules and SimVibe/SimHub/or ebven with racing the built in LFE system you can feel that detail in a way that is more realistic…
Vibration in the wheel is normally FFB Artifact or Error, Mechanical slop (gear drives normally), or artificially induced “feel” that would normally NOT be present but because it is a game they put it there.
With iRacing at least you will never actually get enhancement unless you use some third party software with FFB injection because they don’t use Effects. that being said due to the 60Hz refresh rate you can expose the FFB artifacts between refresh points through lower smoothing (Recon 1 or off) and in some cases through certain filtering combinations that allow the wheel to be too active (overshooting intended FFB targets).
Other games do allow FFB enhancements which can be used as well to add this noise.
To reiterate something said above if a game has MinForce with a DD so not use it it will just cover up detail… if you need more center weighting add friction filter. and if you feel the corner are getting too heavy add in a small amount of constant force reduction.
Thanks @bsohn! For me this is a very good and informative message: when I watch F1 I pay extra attention to find out what causes a driver to be “moved around” and if it’s also to see at the steering wheel. Most of the time it isn’t and the shaking comes from curbs, very rare from track surface. When I once in a while look at the FFB graph while driving cars like RSS, Sim Dream and other open wheelers I can see how detailed and FFB is, much more as one think in general. Again, thanks a lot for sharing this insights!
yea watching real in-car video can definitely help you in seeing th effects… Granted you cannot see the fine details. but if you are driving say a GT3 car in a sim and your hands are jumping back and forth and then you watch it on TV and that is not happening then something is a bit off there…
Now the thing is not to attribute this primarily to strength of your wheel… while that can have some effect on excessive movement, you would be surprised at how strong forces ar in a real race car… (even without the wheel jumping around)… This is why the filters are very important for the DD Wheels because you want to be able to control the forces to allow the strength to be ever present when it needs to tell you something important but NOT trying to tell you everything… when a DD wheel is set up very well it will be pretty easy to drive under high strength situation (even relaxed you might say) BUT then when something get wrong i.e you start to spin, lose traction anywhere, or wreck… it will tell you immediately and definitively (sometimes unfortunately violently) that something is NOT how it should be… This is where the car is doing the talking to you and you should listen. It is very hard to get those settings… My Settings are floating around here and they aren’t directly put on Paddock (as I don’t use that). I say directly because they are probably on there under others names by now. where I have tried to get the SC2 Pro as realistic as possible with a Touch of noise for grounding and immersion. I typically run strength levels that are REAL to cars of similar nature in iRacing mainly that I have had experience with in real life and I let all the other cars in iRacing fall into place as iRacing places all of the calculated wheel strengths for all their cars in the same universe… (meaning they are all in the same scope or window)
