Simucube 2 True Drive software feedback thread

I’ve managed to record the noise so those who have it can compare to what I can hear. I’ve made recordings for both firmware versions. All I am doing is rotating the wheel back and forth. The noise on 2020.3 can be heard from 3 seconds in:

Exactly the same conditions for both recordings and no resonance noise from 2020.1. The noise is associated with a vibration which can also be felt.

Hope this helps.

ETA:
Having listened to this on decent headphones there actually is a bit of the same noise on 2020.1 but much much quieter. Whatever has changed in 2020.3 has boosted this noise considerably.

5 Likes

Dont know about normal use, but in a thigh turn with full force and some damping and Inertia in it… It May be there too.

Back to 2020.1 and no more “ripple” under Low torque mode, so not in game for sure

Well a high torque turn isnt the same as a very high application of damper and friction filtering.

Depending on where this “ripple” comes from in the pipeline the two events are not the same.

Mmmm… a hi torque turn + road bumps & kerbs + hi damping & Friction levels (like seen in some setups) + the driver acting as a dinamic damper…
If its there, it will be there and people is feeling it ingame (not me, I only found it over Low Torque Mode and swinwing hard like an iRacing “LOSS OF CONTROL” event

i did the tests that you suggested.
I felt a very little grainy the wheel. Not like the audio that uploaded Nu Scorpii, the sound is more quiet here

any update on the issue some of us are facing?

While waiting for the update, you might have noticed the postings that after downgrading to 2020.1 & then upgrading to 2020.3 again, the issue is not there anymore… At least this happened to me & I think a few others. So while not fixed as it should be, it fixed it effectively for me. Weird.

I have been adviced by Mika NOT to suggest people to downgrade or upgrade as even IF you happen to have the grainy sound, it should not cause any FFB issues other than the sound itself.
So I am not suggesting you do this, but rather what I have done myself.

Also, it might make it harder for Mika etc. to find the real issue if there’s nobody left to consult/test/check with on hardware that makes the noises.

FWIW

I can tell that the issue cannot be a result of a failed update or anything like that, as our firmware binaries contain a checksum and validity is checked on each run, so if an update fails, the firmwares will not be run at all. And firmware data is binary data, either 0 or 1… Please tell me this forum does not contain those people who upgrade to gold-plated connectors for optical audio cables, raise their speaker wires off the ground, or such nonsense :rofl:

4 Likes

Hehe,
I can tell you that I’ve got a very plain setup & the grainy noise happened on upgrading 2020.1->2020.3 the first time, went away downgrading 2020.3->2020.1 & then did not come back upgrading 2020.1->2020.3 again…

Since I have not done it more times I can not rule out if it will happen on x% of upgrades, so if I did it 10 times more, maybe it would happen again…
Speculating that to be unlikely 8)

I don’t know the ram configurations, what stays, what is cleaned when etc, but I am also speculating it could be some dirty ram somehow. I assume all is cleared to 0’s or so on an upgrade, which would prob. rule dirty ram out as well…

Sorry for even speculating, I know that can be annoying when I really have no knowledge of the setup.

Just FWIW

I had the grainy issue (first batch) downgraded and after few days upgraded, no more issues

I don’t have any of those fancy cables and stuff - but I am old and fail at technology :smile:

Hahahahahaha… funny hahahaha…

as i said some post ago… "IT and Software development are a Science. 2 + 2 in this solar system result in 4 on any part of this planet based on mathematics laws. Honestly , to me, is impossible that an upgrade can cause all this problems for some users and other don’t. I insist possible issues caused by rigs/gear combinations just like the Simulaje F1S.

They make you crazy for nothing

Some upcoming improvements.

image

10 Likes

Today we have the following to control bumpstop:

  • bumpstop strength
  • damper
  • ramp up angle
    What are the values of those for new predefines?
    Will we have custom option as well?
    Thanks
1 Like

Strength will be set at 100% for all, as it is important to not allow the game FFB signal to overcome the bumpstop effect force.

Damper will be investigated and optimal setting found.

Ramp angle will be (provisionally) 20, 10 and 5 degrees. For each of these a good damper setting will be tested.

No custom option. We are not seeing many people playing with these settings anyway, so the improvement will be for the better user experience and to streamline development.

6 Likes

And, the bumpstop setting will be completely a per-profile setting. Might be more useful feature in itself than the over complex parameters.

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Hi Mika, any idea for a better implementation / semplification of direct input effects?

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Hello Mika,

This is very good… dump stop per Profile is very good.
I know that is very boring the following request but can you include a feature that detect the vehicle and ( if present ) load a dedicated profile from TD?.
Useful for iRacing. For iRacing the necessary code is already available on github and detect both cars and tracks.

1 Like

I like the idea. I have mine set to 100% strength, 20% angle, and 10% damping.

For me it is a set and forget option so if for each new profile I have to adjust it again it will be annoying. Will there be a way to set the default for new profiles?

The bumpstop damping seems very broken currently. If you create a test profile with 0 damping, friction, and inertia, set bumpstop strength to 100% and angle to 20 deg, then increasing the damping makes hitting the bump stop harder. At 99% damping it is like hitting a solid wall that kicks back hard!

It also seems as though the ramping up of the resistance over the Bumpstop Angle is linear (Maybe this is the cause of the kick back issue). If that is the case then it would be better to ramp up the resistance using a parabolic curve to prevent that hard hit.

Hi Dirk,

Did you ever figure your losing USB connection out?

I am asking since another user has the same problem, it seems.
I suggested him that maybe it’s caused by the power from outlets not able provide the required watts.

So if you did not yet find a solution, maybe try to pull a cord from another electric group in your house & plug the power supplies in to that?