Can anyone post a screen shot of default settings of general settings tab? One bumstop force setting
Not sure if the default reset function is working
Got my SC2 pro this morning. New QRS and antenna were inside the box, mates!
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I found this problem in the software, when you change something in the current settings like, dampning, friction, inertia etc. Sometimes the wheel center goes to -300 from 0 and if you won’t notice it can hurt you. When you change something again it goes back to normal
Yesterday I was trying some Project Cars 2 settings by ‘Hugo Vai’ in TD, I tried his ‘wristbreaker’ settings text file (under bonus folder). I was trying these because changes in TD did not translate to any difference in the game.
Settings were VERY stiff. I was changing a few things like friction and inertia, and then the wheel, ON ITS OWN, rotated to around +120deg or so, and I rec’d a TD warning msg. at the bottom that there was a risk of injury. Wheel stayed there until I closed TD and started over with a different text file. Sounds like the same issue you’re reporting.
In another thread, yesterday I closed Project Cars 2. I restarted TD and started in Simple mode, Read Only OEM settings. I started in OEM 4.4NM with some torque, but when I switched to Enable High Torque mode (changing to max 11.1NM), and the torque DISAPPEARED! Something is not making sense, even in TD without a sim running.
I just downloaded AC Competizione, to have the latest Sim for testing. I’m going to do more testing in ACC today and tomorrow, and will report. Not Happy at the moment.
The low torque mode has large amount of forced-on damping and friction, which disappear when the high torque mode is activated. You can add those to the profile or just use the simple profile mode to experiment with settings.
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Don’t hit save!
Hurt my thumb 
Just change the settings, I’ve also noticed this and mentioned it a couple of weeks ago.
It happens when you write/save values to the wheel and during that moment turn the wheel a bit.
Reproduced the problem a couple of times before I mentioned it here in the forum.
Honestly i like how low torque mode feels. 40/100 i use low torque on gt3 class.
Sounds like another good reason for saving to file instead of EPROM.
as explained, there is no EEPROM on the device.
We are thinking of implementing stuff that requires settings to be saved on the device. There are other settings - other than profiles - there too…
Anyone have two different wireless wheels (non-DIY, preferable F28-SC or B16(M/L)-SC?
In general, yes, you are right. However, technically, they are differentiated enough so that they are not the same tech anymore. Flash longetivity is not an issue. If it is (when we get data from users in next firmware version), we shall react.
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By my experience being a first batch customer since June, the number of saves decreased over time. First months could be an issue only thinking about it, but the more you know TD the less you need to save, appart of having a base profile for every sim I drive
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Do they both have to be non diy? I have one I did and the F28-SC…
We need someone to test those wheels that are made in such a way to obey the suggested button placement on the wireless wheel module datasheet.
I did follow that for the one I built but as closely as I could but im not sure it will line up exactly because of the layout. But I tried to in case you ever added an option to save that stuff in Simucube instead of in game.
Which wheels do you need tested? I have a Ascher B16M-SC
Will need someone with F28-SC and a B16-SC. This is to confirm that we’ve fixed the issue where the button numbering and placement didn’t match between wheel models as intended, making it impossible to actually hot swap wheels.
I have an F28-SC, and I plan to buy a B16-SC when they’re back in stock. However, Martin told me a couple weeks ago they will be back in stock by ‘end of the year’. So it could be 10-12 weeks until I have the B16-SC.
We actually were able confirm that the button ordering issue is now fixed in the upcoming firmware.
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