I know I had the same result. The only reason and purpose why I tried it at 100% was to see if I could tune out the wobble completely and I couldn’t. Right or wrong had nothing to do with it. One way to learn how it will effect things is to go to the extreme.
I guess you haven’t tried it before and just assumed that the wheel would have stopped and being rock hard and impossible to move.
That didn’t happened, I was still able to turn the wheel and and drive the car.
Access denied so I can’t see what you shared, but I guess you got a similar result
when running the settings I have what Max Force and TD Force settings are you running so I know what the difference in Specific Output is…
Off the top of my head I would say:
Reduce Friction (will allow the wheel to reproduce lower amplitude signals), and Inertia (should reduce center springiness) a bit but leave Damping and Recon the same… then Increase Slew to maybe about 4.5Nm/s
You can also try Recon 3 but it may bring back the metallic feel which I think is probably noise that you are sensitive too…
I will say that some cars do not give as much road feel and slip feel in the corners due to essentially Power steering modeling… as power steering removes feel through the wheel (it’s natural it happens).
I left them at 17/63 but I will try with a bit higher ratio as well.
I will give it a go and try different friction and inertia as well as the slew rate.
I’m very sensitive to it because it ruins the immersion and feels unrealistic for me
The biggest problem for me is there is no difference between the Skippy and the GT3 cars, there is no road or tyre scrub at all everything feels the same in that regard.
The funny thing is the Skippys and GT3s have strange similarities because the skippies run on treaded tires where the tire block squirm will diminish road feel through the wheel and the GT3’s have Power Steering which diminishes road feel… though the skippys will depending on the track feel a bit more direct since there is no power steering.
I tried before. Even without any torque applied, no other filter used and no changes whatever the wheel starts to rattle at 35%. There is already a lot of resistance. The more friction I add the worse it gets.
Yeah, the friction effect on the servo drive might go unstable, as there is always a bit of noise in the high-resolution encoder reading, and in the servo drive current driving.
I just implemented friction effect things last night for the DirectInput side of things, and by just looking at the encoder signal, I could notice the air moving when getting out of the rig, while the wheel was still.
I wanted to proof that what @MacIntyre is saying is not really accurate:
With 30% friction, with the smallest amount of torque we can set at TD, the wheel is literally already locked in a sense that it’s not driveable anymore. I think it’s also oscillating but, because of the amount of friction, it doesn’t become a “wild horse”.
Sorry, English is not my first language…I translated it, but don’t really get the meaning behind, sorry for that. Maybe you can explain this to me. Thanks Mika
If I understand it correctly, the simucube is able to detect the air in the room that passes over the steering wheel.
Or let’s call it the light wind in your room
Thanks for the video @CLAYREGAZZONI it’s shows the issue pretty well.
I have that oscillation regardless of my settings it’s always present and that is what I have tried to tune out. The issue is non of the filters can tune it out. It’s too dominant and kills all under laying small forces. The more filter I add the worse it gets. I thought 100% friction would have stopped it but it doesn’t. It only amplifies it as your video shows. Further more that oscillation is triggered already at forces as low as 0.3% of out put from iRacing regardless of what ratio I’m using.
Any ideas what’s causing it and more important how to get rid of it?
The thing is there should be a difference just because of differences in tyres and steering but there isn’t they feel the same, because of the lack of road and tyre feedback.
So even if it is diminished that doesn’t explain the lack of road and tyre feedback. We can’t blame the lack of those small forces on tyres or power steering.
We can only blame it on not having the right tools to tune out the dirt (oscillations in this case) without killing the small forces, which prevent us from feeling the differences of those small forces. iRacing have them we just can’t tune them in correctly.
I hate to say it again but 95% of the feel of a car does not transmit through the steering but all of the suspension components and forces sent through the suspension, shocks, springs, and chassis which are then transmitted up the steering column and to your hands… These do not actually come through the rack itself but are transmitted through the entire vehicle… This is why you are able to feel when other issues happen in the car through the steering wheel that are not even connected such as an engine mount deteriorating, or a miss in the engine or something that causes other vibrations through the chassis, but at the same time might not actually feel something like a front wheel bearing coming apart (which you think you would be able to feel. OH you will definitely hear it, but, you might not actually feel it through the steering)… A cars steering system just does not transmit as much information as what most people think it does. So what WE as sim racers are really missing with the equipment that most of us have is chassis vibration and dynamics. You can get some of this via SimVibe or other similar devices… and some games choose to push some of these effects to the wheel (iRacing is one that doesn’t) These are what are generally referred to as “Canned Effects”.
As far as what you MAY actually be dealing with…
If your wheel is actually Oscilating like the video at all times and won’t stop it is possible you may have a misreading encoder which would be a hardware issue… it should be absolutely still unless you are running with unstable filters, as was done in the video… this can occur with any of the filters depending on the settings used but generally it only happens with very high settings,
I have that oscillations all the time. Is not as bad as it is in the video though but it is always present. Even when the filters are set to off and gets worse with higher filter settings or higher torque. It doesn’t go completely crazy as it is in the center area of the wheel. I have it in my SC1 as well.
If I have a misreading encoder how do I fix it if it can be done?
That would be weird depending on how large the Oscilation is… It would also be very strange for it to BOTH be in the SC1 and SC2 as it is highly unlikely that both units would have encoder issues… if an encoder i bad it would need replacing but like I said to have it in BOTH units would be odd and highly unlikely.
The more filters the more the signal is altered. The idea of Granite is: in a perfect environment the simulation delivers a perfect signal to the Simucube. The Simucube itself delivers the signal to the steering wheel/your hands. They are the only possibility for us to phisically feel the FFB. The signal is delivered as fast as possible, exactly the way it was received, absolutely untouched, very precise and without latency. This is what Granite has as goal.
TD an its filters job is to adjust the level of torque and degrees of rotation. That is all, always under the assumption that the signal is perfect AND your steering wheel is perfect too.
TD filters (they are not named FFB this, FFB that) do… filter. There are damping and friction. Inertia isn’t a filter, it’s adding artificial weight. Slew rate is no filter but a limiter. And constant force reduction is … reducing a constant force. Reconstruction filters are smoothing and predicting (?) the signal.
Did you ever try simple mode? Maybe worth it. I would start with all filters off, adjust everything in-game. If it’s not good, try to add very small amounts of a single filter at the time
