My old Thrustmaster had so much more detail then My SC2 sport!

Running the wheel with Recon off and no filters with a low ratio gives you a pretty good feeling for what you want to tune out. Unfortunately we can’t do it.

If you are still experiencing the feeling with Torque Bandwidth Limit at 100 Hz, then no amount of filtering will get rid of the thing you are experiencing. Any EQ system wouldn’t be able to do it either.

You can try to change on iRacing app.ini the smoothnes of the signal

steeringFFBSmooth=1.000000

Try lower values like 0.5 , 0.33 until you reach 0.20 and feel the difference

I have tried it on 100Hz and it doesn’t help. :frowning:

I have tried it and anything below 0,4 just gave me a similar feeling as the center spring but with a bit more punch over the curbs :slight_smile:

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I’m probably an amateur when it comes to FFB and you guys definitely understand all this better than I do, maybe a little too much :joy:

But I also found that a lot of the settings I tried where grainy and rough even from people that have been doing this since the beginning of time and real life GT3 driver’s.

I’ve also noticed thought that your settings can feel very different depending on the wheel you are using like size and weight of the wheel

Settings that work for GT3 cars for example don’t work on the IR18 as I was getting a lot of oscillation that I wasn’t getting with other cars

I don’t fully understand the concept of iracing’s FFB but not sure if I want to because then maybe I’ll find myself going down this rabbit hole as well :joy:

If you like you can try these settings as everything else I’ve tried I don’t really like (maybe I’m attached to my settings)

I used a Cube controls GT Pro OMP with these settings

Max force for GT3 cars, 75-80nm and LMP2, 95-100nm but maybe I’m a weakling

With these settings I use the same cube controls button box but with a 300mm wheel from sim racing bay

Max force same as above

Thats It, now try reactive filters on TrueDrive
Edit:
(low D,F,I, low recon, 2200hz and play with SlewRate

Thanks I will give them a go tomorrow :slight_smile:

I tried that a while ago but maybe I didn’t go low enough on the smoothing in the app.ini.
I will give it an other go tomorrow as well :slight_smile:

Im at 0.235 if I remember correctly

That’s low but I will defiantly try it :slight_smile:

Then I take the signal alive with TrueDrive godspeed
XD

Godspeed is sometimes under rated :slight_smile:

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Btw it seem like my wheel get stuck after a while, when I muck around with the settings too much especially in app.ini. Not freezing but the changes have no effect anymore and it feels very rough and ugly forcing me to turn it of and disconnect it. Is this something you guys have experienced?

No, never on iRacing

I would sort of suggest though not sure if it will work for everything you are after:

Recon I would probably say 3 but your 1 or 2 should work as well depending on final feel
TBW Unlimited
Damping around 15 maybe even as high as 20%
Friction around 2-3% dust to give a little more grounding when the wheel goes light as it can feel REALLY light in some situations.
Inertia initially I would say 2-3% but maybe up to about 5
with Slew around 2.5 - 3 Nm/sec

From what I can gather you are actually looking for an active wheel but without the top end activeness the problem in general that is hard to achieve as active race cars are just Brutal and dead feeling race cars are just dead… so depending on the car you will get differing feels. In order to stop the upper end activeness more damping and inertia will help… friction will cover up the low end activeness that you are looking for.

Note Set-up on the car can have a HUGE effect on the wheel feel as well… running lots of Caster on a car will tend to weight the wheel heavily and then give a much smoother feel under understeer when it does let loose… In the IR18 if you are running the 8 tooth steering Pinion it will cause a much heavier more active steering than say running it with a 6 tooth (as actual indy car drivers tend to do in real life)… So those are areas to look at as well…

I generally would not suggest using iRacings app.ini smoothing as while it is smoothing it is also again smoothing over smoothing… so you may be causing yourself to lose what you seek to find before you can actually find it… as if iRacing smooths out its grounding vibration then it will feel like driving on ice before actually even being able to find that you need that signal.

To me as mentioned above it looks like what you are searching for is low level activeness with high force deadness… This is VERY hard to get when the signal comes in linearly… So far most of what you have attempted fix the Upper Activeness at the sacrifice of the Low Amplitude signals that you are looking to have… in essence sending you into the spiral of never being able to find what you want becasue it is all being removed from the signal.

Do a video and share the link. And there it is, for all to watch

Yeah I know it’s super difficult to get it and to be honest iRacing is a pita when it comes to have all the details with a natural feeling. Not necessary at a realistic torque though.
My main coal is to have the road texture and tyre scrub, especially the road texture. I’m sick of, every road feels the same it’s just the bumpiness that’s different.
If this means a more active wheel to get it fine I take that, but it’s not the main coal here.
I tried your settings with the BMW gt3.
I liked the feeling driving in a straight line it was way more calm and realistic :slight_smile: but it didn’t gave me the road texture nor the tyre scrub.
I got a small grinding feeling in the center when I changed direction quickly or hit a curb. Any cure for that?
I also got a metallic feeling similar to what you get in a real car when you have a broken link or bushing when I hit a curb. Any cure for that?
Further more I got a bit too much rubber-band feeling in the center. Lowering the damping cured the rubber-band a bit but increased that metallic feeling as expected.
Lower recon 1-2 gave me more of the metallic feeling without adding that much extra.
I know we are picking on very small details here but why shouldn’t we :slight_smile:
The overall feeling was better and a bit more realistic except from the above :slight_smile:
Thanks.

I know, but I don’t want to create an account somewhere just for that :slight_smile:
You can try it yourself with the settings I shared here then turn up the friction to 100% :slight_smile:

My steering wheel starts to wobble when 30% friction is applied. The wheel has already so much resistance against turning that it is useless to discuss such a setting. There is only one reason for me to consider using this: a combination of totally wrong settings, so weird that this amount of friction no longer matters
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1elihXPIZRbNU_K4PM_FSRnomvimYvmTi/view?usp=drivesdk