My old Thrustmaster had so much more detail then My SC2 sport!

Somebody please help me.
I’ve owned my sport for almost 2 years and i’ve had nothing but a love hate relationship with it.
From day one it has never performed as it should, apon upgrading from my Thrustmaster I instantly noticed that all the road surface feel and things like engine vibration that I had previously with the Thrustmaster was missing.
I have tried every profile out there and time and again had uninstalled TD and started again but none have made any difference.
Eventually I tried a custom FFB file meant for low end wheels e.g logitech and just like that all the fine detail that was missing showeded up I now could feel the grip level again instead of just a floating car and the wheel feels phenomenal, having tried my friends other brands DD wheels nothing comes close to the SC2.
Unfortunately i have also been left stuck playing AMS2 for the last 2 years as anytime I try to play Dirt rally 2 or WRC 10 the frustration comes back as there is no way of using a custom FFB profile and the games are unplayable.
Another guy had exactly the same issue on this forum so i asked him if he had managed to fix it, unfortunately he told me no body believed him and told me that he since went with another brand and has no issues and told me to do the same which is not what i want to do as i have built my whole rig around this wheel base. (upload://bXTA8TIo6HghFwxCJPms4b1fro1.jpeg)
Its taken me 2 years to build up the courage to ask for help as i feel no one will understand and i’ll be eaten alive seeing as their wheel works fine but this issue is more then a couple of TD filter settings so if anyone has some serious advice please revert from suggesting the TD settings.
Thanks in advance

Which post are you referring to?

And post your wheel base settings you are using for each game you’re having issues with

What was changed in the custom FFB profile that made the wheel work for you… My guess from what you are mentioning is that there were some things either In game or via output curve that were changed to allow certain Game elements to come out… These elements MAY be things that could be boosted through the use of the Direct Input Gains toward the bottom of TrueDrive…

One of the things that is VERY different with a DD wheel is that they are designed to take the signal they are given and reproduce it as the game outputs it as closely as possible… The Issue comes in when the Previous wheel someone has as options to alter certain segments of the input. When a wheel does this either adjustable by the user or not it will effect the way things feel when you move from one the style of wheel to another…

Hi Mate, appreciate you taking the time.
The post was " RE: Brand new Simucube 2 Sport feels terrible in Assetto Corsa and randomly loses FFB or decides to go full lock

Please don’t turn this into a he said she said, i’m just looking for help here.
As for my settings, honestly its every sim i have the same issue and as i’ve stated i’ve tried ever TD posted online. This is something different, its like my base is only receiving half the information and only when using a custom FFB file meant for a low end wheel where i think the information is amplified does it pick up all the fine detail missing. I think you need to try and think out the box to solve this.

Thanks for your reply.
I kind of understand what your saying and its nice to know you kind of understand what i’m trying to explain but from what i’m understanding there is nothing i can do? Sorry i’m not very technical, but obviously i should be able to feel things like wheel scrub and slip and say engine vibrations without the use of a Custom Low end wheel FFB profile, i’m sure every one else using an SC2 can feel this.
Even when using a custom FFB file for high end wheels i still don’t feel any road surface-tire scrub coming through, yet i could always feel this on a Thrustmaster with or without any custom FFB files.
I’ve also felt all these things on my friends DD1 but mine just feels numb like the car is floating.

My settings are based on the Sport!
For WRC 9 and 10, where details of FFB are better in 9:
Torque between 35 and 38%
Steering range and bumpstop 540
(Depending on your rally wheel you can try 380 aswell)
Bumpstop feel as you like
Recon off or 1
Bandwidth unlimited
Static force reduction, depending on your driving likes from 5 to 15
Low latency: difficult to really feel a difference for me, you can placebo it or let me know if you really get a different experience
Everything else at default
Direct input filters:
Damping is working but off
Spring is working (Think is related to desktop spring, which I have off) because there is no such in-game setting so off
In-game settings:
Overall force 80
Self aligning 110
Rest default
Overall vibrations 80
Everything at default except engine (sequential shifter will give a kind of hit, so I have it between 25 and 50)
Crash close to 0 or at 0, I don’t need to brake my hands to learn I hitted a tree). When I see the outcome is unchangeable I sometimes close my eyes out of reflex)
No driving aids
Difficulty at 100
Damage system realistic with perma crash
It’s a sensational (although tragic) experience driving with a flat tyre, a damaged suspension dragging the car constantly to one side, an almost broken gear box when you feel the cars pain so detailed and accurate (if this happens I sometimes start to talk to the car, telling that I’m sorry and I won’t abandon him…). WRC 10 has an FFB a bit less detailed and duller but still light years better than dirt rally 2.0.
My rig: Pro Simrig PSR1, shifter, pedals and handbrake from BJ, rally wheel from VPG sim based on a Motamec 350mm diameter, Odyssey G9 curved 49 monitor sequential push pull device from JacobeR!! It works in 9 with Simhub!! In 10 it did but now doesn’t… don’t know why. In general I adjust the amount of torque, steering range and recon from 0 to 2. Static force depending on the simulation, the rest doesn’t work for me. I see the Simucube 2 as a perfect motor which is paired with perfect interfaces. If a simulation has a good physics engine it’s absolutely amazing. If developers created an ugly bitch (sorry for that) no force in the world will transform this into true beauty. If a simulation is perfect why should you destroy it by interfering? A Simucube 2 will deliver this sensation as received, insanely fast, in its full variety, bandwidth and stunning precise.
PS: try reshade, I use it in almost all simulations except those like F1 titles having a very good graphic out of the box and working with DLSS. Graphic card is an Aourus Master RTX 3070ti

1 Like

Please post your current TD settings. Maybe there is something fundamentally wrong. Also paddock profiles aren’t the holy grail.

A direct drive is meant to replicate the signal send by the game and to feel the small details, you need to run a high overall strength. These low end wheels add software effects to give more sense of details, but it’s fake.

My mate has a trustmaster tgt2 and I have the SC2 Pro and the difference is night and day in favour of my Simucube. But when he comes to my house he can’t drive it because he’s not used to these forces.

I’ve tried and owned multiple DD systems from DD2 to Sim Steering 2 and the SC2 is my favourite. So I’m sure yours should be functioning fine with the correct profile.
And if you still think there is something wrong, do you have a friend or shop that has a Simucube base? Then you can go there and test the bases side by side to see if there’s any difference.

Hi mate thanks for taking the time.
I don’t mean to sound ungrateful but i feel me posting my TD settings will not help in any way as obviously i don’t feel what i should be feeling whenever using the countless people’s TD setting and in game settings with the way my base is working and i’m positive if i was to send my setting along with the custom FFB i’m using to make my wheel feel decent you will only be left thinking WTF.
As for low end wheels adding software effects which might be fake as you say, unfortunately without it i can not feel grip level or weight of the car even things like gear change can’t be felt yet once running the low end Custom FFB they can be felt and have so much more information coming through the wheel especially at the centre of the wheel. The wheel just feels tight and precise ( not to be mistaken with heavy)which is possibly what everyone feels but i only feel it when running the custom file.

Another note any Paddock profile i use all feel crap when using on default and as soon as i kick in the low end Profile they all feel terrific and would happily run any of those TD setting all day long.
The amount of information the wheel sends out between running the Low end file and not running it is night and day. TD settings make no real impact its more a little bit of smoothing out and fine tuning whats there but with out me running the Low end file there is nothing to fine tune.
I live in Malta and unfortunately don’t know of anyone with an SC2 nor am i aware of any shops who will sell them here.
Thanks once again for your help.

Could you maybe give an example which contains:
2 simulations you like the most, where at least 1 is with Formula cars? Not older than maybe 4/5 years, no Mods used, nothing added, just a sim in its original state? Fe an F1 title from 18 to 21, a rally title from WRC 8 to 10, ACC would all be good.
In order to really understand what bothers you it’s a must to have:
Your in-game settings with steering range, FFB settings, all about fuel amount, driving aids, preset that you maybe use.
Your TD settings AND information on the steering wheel you use. Extension added, what QR you have.
I know, sounds a bit complicated but without these infos everyone willing to help has his hands cuffed.
I’m not sure if you did provide all before, based on what you wrote in the latest post I assume you didn’t.
Most running a Simucube started with a wheel like G29, some like @Andrew_WOT have years of experience, @phillip.vanrensburg knows every little detail from hard and software. @Mika doesn’t have a teddy bear in his bed but a Simucube.
The list of skilled persons is huge, I can’t list them all.
If you are frustrated to a limit where you don’t want to do this, then try this:
Buy a title on a platform offering discounts and get yourself an easy title. If you like F1 get one of them because setup is very easy in terms of recognition. Start at easy level, use overall FFB only at 20 and in TD at 20. Recon 1, rest default. No details? Add in-game a little bit, then in TD. Till you have a level of torque you are happy with. Use either a car setup from in-game or 1 from steam workshop (Gattlik provide a ton of them). Drive with 10 to max 20 kilo of fuel and with the softest tyres available.

If you want us to help debug the issue, we have to start from the beginning and go over every factor that could be in play. And that’s game and TD settings. TD settings can really break the experience if they are not right.

For example I tried AC once and I didn’t like it at all. I have superb settings for iRacing, but the same profile was shit on AC and the wheel was fighting itself. Something like reverse oscillations, probably because of a filter that work fine in iRacing, but not in ACC.

So please post your settings and maybe we spot something that shouldn’t be there. You want help, so let’s start with step 1.

Do you have the same game settings, custom luts etc. with SC as you had with your previous wheel?

The feel from the wheel is a combination of game settings and wheel settings.

Post both and we’ll be able to say if there’s something wrong. Otherwise it’s just your impression that it should work better on random settings.

You don’t use “correct” Gyro implementation from CM by any chance, it will cause a lot of oscillation and strong snap back unless wheel is severely dampened. Try with original Kunos gyro.
For AC settings this could be a good start, but it’s all personal so feel free to adjust to you liking, especially gain

Gents just a quick shout out to all of you for taking the time to try and help me out and my apologies for not having responded to some of you as i’ve have been busy trying out suggestions and set ups and comparing notes with some of you all week, if anything i was a little overwhelmed at all your response, great bunch of lads on here many many thanks!!
From what i’ve gathered after this testing and confirmation of should and shouldn’t be felt through the wheel in these games is it seems what i’m experiencing is more down to game compatibility between certain games and the SC2 rather then any issues with my unit it self and hence why my impression was that there was something might be wrong with My SC2 as with my old thrusmaster i could enjoy certain games yet now struggle to play them at all with the vague feeling i get with SC2 no matter how many changes and different TD profiles i made.
Once again many thanks for all your help and suggestions.

P.s. Shout out to all you super cleaver gents out there who spend countless hours of your own time creating these custom files so the rest of us can unlock the true potential and experience our SC2 in all their glory, my hat off to you gents!!
Seriously hate to think what my purchase would of been like if not for all your hard work, many thanks.

I dont agree at all.
When you say more details, my interpretation of your “more details” is for me noisy/grainy/cogging effects, it’s not details, it’s parasite unwanted effects due to the old belt technology.
I used to have a noisy/grainy/cogging FFB, I had the ts pc racer, and you are used to these parasite effects too.
But no way the ts pc racer has more details, it the opposite, with F1 cars and most of the cars, the ts pc racer clips, and I had zero detail in most of the turns, with the SC2 pro, I have all the details and a strong FFB, the main reason for me to buy a SC2 pro, to have more details and stronger FFB, and it’s exactly what I have.
End of the debate, if there was one.
Soon I will publish a full article about SC 2 pro vs Fanatec vs belt wheel, for my full SC2 review.

Look forward to reading your article mate.
As for the detail i used to feel on the thrustmaster, noisy/grainy… call it what you will i’m not here to argue but all i can say is it used to give me a sense of feel and level of traction in certain games which allowed me to play these games and is no longer there with the SC2 and instead left with a dead floating sensation.
Time and again i have went back to this game and still feels unplayable now.
Since my post i have spend countless hours with guys on here very kindly helping me out and when asked like for like of what they can and can’t feel they have pretty much all confirmed that floating sensation in these games is the same for them.
As for being used to that feeling grainy/cogging, i can assure you i have used nothing but my SC2 for the last 2 years and love it to bits with games that allow for custom FFB files but struggle with any default ffb settings.
BTW i had a TX wheel and once had the opportunity to use TS PC Racer along with a friend of mine who also had a TX and we were both shocked at how coggy the TS felt compared to the TX so i defiantly understand about what you mean about the cogging feel and its definitely not that.

Tell me the games you have a bad feeling and post your TD FFB, I will give you mine.
Dirt rally 2 is made for gamepad, WRC game too, AMS2 has the same FFB than Project cars 2.
Did you try a game made for DD wheels, like rFactor 2, ACC or iRacing or Raceroom ?
It’s where the SC2 is used at 100%, even if for DR2.0 or WRC or AMS2, I have a better feeling than with my ts pc racer cause I have a stronger FFB and more details.

I had the TX, and it’s so worst than the ts pc, that I have used it only 2 weeks before switching to ts pc racer (TX has so low power that it clips everytime with so few details).
It took only 3 days (with 2 hours of gameplay by day) to learn the TD software and to have my favorite raw FFB with full of details.
I have very high standards, and no way the TX or TS PC have more details than my SC2 pro.
Try my settings, it’s very raw.

For DR2.0 I have published a FFB setting even if I have slighty modified it, you can find it online


i have 2 tipps for you solving your problems.

First in every game set min force to 0.
Then if you want to become more live into your rig and your experience…add minimum one buttkicker oder sinuslive with an AMP to your rig to simulate eg only motor or chassis Vibration. Use this with simvibe or simhub. They are not really expensive but they will fill your lack of experience in combination with your wheel, describing in your first post here. Believe me.
Best greetings

Hi Tobi,
I actually run a 8 shaker set up and have one under the wheel as you can see in the pic below which i thought i would no longer need once i got the SC2 but it still adds so much especially when hitting rumble strips or on idle with a cammy engine but most of all as it helps keep the same consistence and balance of intensity through out the rig.

Yes i totally agree with you regards with the SC2 having bucket loads more detail in certain games and also games like AMS2 once you can play around with a custom FFB file but games like Dirt 2.0 before i could play with a thrustmaster or logitech yet for me is just unplayable with the SC2 no matter how many times i went back to it and tried different settings.
You mentioned DR2.0 is made for Gamepad and perhaps it’s why for me it seems to work better with a lower end wheel but not with the SC2.
Also yes to forces are stronger of whatever detail is coming through with the SC2 but tell me do you actually feel any sense of tire scrub in DR2.0 with the SC2 as so far every one i have asked have always replied no and hence this floating sensation i mention.
If you want PM me your settings for DR2.0 and i can try them out mate.

show me your setting, I have my own setting, and I can say with confidence it’s as good, for me it’s better, as with ts pc racer, and I have used 2000hours a ts pc racer, and if I say it’s as good or better in DR2.0, trust me it is.
I’m sure you do something wrong.
It took me 3 min to have a good FFB.