What is your steering wheel?
Diameter, shape, wheight…
I learned the hard way that you need to match Servo Damping Friction and Inertia to your wheel.
Bigger wheel: -Damping, +Friction, -inertia
Lighter wheels: +Damping, -Friction, +inertia
-Damping never higher than 20% in any scenario
-Friction <5 in a 32cm 1.8kg Porsche wheel, <2 in a 28cm 1.4kg formula rim
-Inertia <3 in the Porsche wheel, <6 in the formula one.
Then, at Racing FFb options, put Wheel Force slider al 1nm and forget about It, just change TrueDrive Overall Forces and iRacing Max Force.
Another tip is to match incar steering with True Drive steering Range. Take an example with F3 car, It has 450° aprox ( dont remember) see that in box turning to the bumpstop. Match that steering Range in TrueDrive and recalibrate on iRacing ( or match the slider manually). This is useful in Cars with less than 540⁰
It is all a balancing act as such… The thing is to Not try to mitigate the spikes but focus on the other details coming through, you can then adjust the Slew Rate, Reconstruction Filter and TBW to help reduce the feel of those spikes. The reconstruction filter is the only one of these three that will tend NOT to mitigate the signal as TBW is a low pass filter and Slew Rate alters the torque deliver. The Recon filter however tries to smooth the signal to the drive system with minimal alteration to its intended amplitude.
Here are the settings that I use for every car I run I haven’t run the particular car that you are running much at all but the iRacing open wheelers tend to have very spiky feedback in general.
The Wheel Force Slider is irrelevant as long as your Max Force needed is above the number indicated. It is a protection for say you have a 30Nm wheel set to output 30Nm and “auto” says the car you are driving (i.e miata is 15Nm) if you had the wheel force at 1Nm it would change Max force to 15Nm but you are outputting on a 30Nm wheel which has just created an override of 2:1 so you would be getting twice the force you should through the wheel… however if you had the Wheel Strength slider set to 30Nm as the wheel is… “auto” would ONLY go as low as the wheel force or 30Nm even though the miata might have the ability to be lower without clipping… this 30Nm with a 30Nm wheelbase would be 1:!.
Yes I did all of the Normal app.ini changes. Though I think newer installs of iRacing already incorporate many of the changes… The Bumpstop angle Is one though that should be changed for sure to somewhere around 100 - 180 degrees.
Why I agree with most what you’re saying, I simply cannot see why Damping should never be higher in any scenario.
I am very often (mostly always) running mine on 25%, and I have a large akm65 servo, see a fr# posts up the page for a screenshot of my settings.
Damping 25%
Friction 20%
Inertia 18%
Low-latency 8-16%
I leave slew-rate default though due to my large servo with heaps of mechanical damping. But ffb feel/settings are mostly always different for each of us, there’s no hard and fast rule of ‘we must never use this’ or ‘you should use that’ type of scenario.
Yes, agreed, that are settings that will be obviously impacting to the dynamic range capability of the servo, not referring to those, but from a filtering perspective, almost anything goes, I have seen over the years. It’s just up to what a specific individual prefers
Sure, you are running your custom servos at 100% Overall force, but @yeree and I are running our servos at 15Nm Max generally.
One point I can’t understand in your setting is Friction and Inertia so High, why?
I bought a servo Drive to not deal with hardware Friction or too much inertia.
Did you tried any of the Fanatec Porsche FFb wheels? If I put your values on my SC2 Sport It will work like any of those Fanatec wheels, yes with 17Nm but sluggish and incapable of self-centering.
Never had an issue with centering here, but probably because my TD is running 100% and I adjust in-sim to my liking.
Even with those filters I am using, running the TD at full setting gives me really good dynamic range and fidelity, especially my servo is capable of 45NM. My only comment was to say that filters will be dependant on personal requirements, servo-size and torque, slew and few other factors.
Even on my real SC2 Ultimate I run similar settings to what I have shown above, because it is extremely powerful and very fast in response. For the Pro, I typically reduced the main-filters all-round by 5%, so I would imagine I would do the same again going to the Sport.
So I would say that your servo torque capability and things like slew and mechanical inertia will determine filtering levels to a larger degree, but, of course, so will personal preference.
I use servo D, F and I to equilibrate my steering wheels to a given Overall force, because is not the same a light formula rim that a round chubby one.
Any other filter I change is to achieve the best signal from the sim, It is like a 2 step setup for me.
Yep, good way of doing it My wheels are all typically similar in weight and diameter, so I don’t have to worry about that so much. But if I happen to fit the lighter FS1 for example, I might increase some filters a bit, and vice-versa when I fit the much heavier old fanatec bmw rim.
So wheel weight and also diameter will have quite a significant impact if you especially reduce TD torque level, more so than if you kept TD at 100%.
But that is the beauty about these wheels, so much adjustability that there is no real ‘wrong’ way to do things, it is very dependant on personal capability and needs/wants.
Part of the main differences with Beanos setup is that he is using a completely different servo than anyone else with the SC2… This means that while his setting may work dynamically they will probably be pretty different as electro-mechanical properties of a Kollmorgen 65 are significantly different than the Servo which is being used in the Pro or the Sport, or even the Ultimate Or for that matter even a similar L to K wind on a Kollmorgen.
So with that the settings for filtering notwithstanding the personalization factors will be different…
This can be seen alone in my settings between my Large Mige SC1 and the SC2 Pro, while there is a degree where they cannot be compared directly they both have relatively the same power levels and I run them as such but with the Large Mige and the 1.x release of the config tool which is similar to TrueDrive with the adjustment I run Recon - 7, Damping - 32.5% Friction 0%, and Inertia 5%, This System does not have Skew but then at the same time I don’t belive it would need it where with the Pro to get the feel I like I run the 17%D, 10%F and 7%I with the recon at 4 and a bunch of skew…
For me at these settings these two wheel options feel remarkably similar but are Vastly different in what and How they need to be controlled.
So this is where it is best to find settings of similar units to try (though it is NOT a bad thing to try others just in case some things transfer). Not having tried the Sport out I can’t even say the sport would need similar settings to the Pro and I would guess the Ultimate is probably completely different as well.
As for power level and settings. YES that can change the feel but in many cases if you are using settings from the same servo/model the results will be similar IF it is the servo being controlled ONLY and you are not using the settings to color the game output to a certain feel… I.e severely under or over setting a filter relative the servos optimal control point.
In normal use (not sim just motor control) all of these settings are used to normalize servo behavior so that it will do the same thing predictably with any signal it may be given at any power level that it needs to use… The GOAL with the settings in regard to the sim would be to reach this normalization as well but due to the constant nature of signal from a sim it is VERY difficult to do and so we get into the car to car, Game to Game, and Person to Person variances.
So we sit and play and hopefully find what is good for us as an individual and IF it works for us we share and hope it helps someone else find what they need.
[Are these game-specific threads the right place to put game-specific but random questions?]
I actually prefer the rubber tire feel of absolute minimum (0.1 Nm/ms) Slew Rate Limit.
What are the consequences and how significant are they since it is per millisecond?
Is it objectively wrong to prefer such low slew rates?
For the record, this is why I prefer a dedicated smoothing filter (which might be the same effect in practice) as it gives me tire rubber and tire flex info I didn’t have before.
It seems anything more than 0.2 loses this rubber tire feeling.
Am I way off base? Do people really use high Slew Rates in iRacing?
There’s no right or wrong. Most people are using settings that are not at all representative of real life, I.w extreme over-active and noisy/spiky.
If you like that low slew-rate, use it, why not. It is very close to what you would feel in a SS2 Bodnar wheel, btw. I don’t like the balloon-tyre feeling though, that was why I sold my SS2 wheels, as it was to extreme.
Luckily, the SC2 series cater for both ends of the spectrum.
PS: An overall smoothing filter isn’t the way to go, as it will add unnecessary latency to the ffb. The current filters are more than capable to have the same effect on ffb without the added latency overall smoothing would bring, plus, Reconstruction filter 2 is being developed by Tero.
I will probably be used to do alpha-testing on that again, let’s see how Tero goes with that. I captured heaps of data already a good while back for him to use, so knowing him, it will be under firm development already. And Mika is extremely pro-active with the HID side of things, so I am expecting good things to come over the next year.
Once that drops, it will bring SC2 to another level again.
I don’t necessarily like a balloon feeling but I do like the rubbery feeling, the tire flex, the feeling of an air filled tire. I’m just trying to get closer to rF2, which doesn’t require extreme settings.
The last statement about the tire models is really the thing that is so different between games and in Real life which is why there are differences from real life…
From my experience many race cars while they have a little give in the feel of the tire it is not that much. it gives you the sense of rolling onto the rubber but not a VERY Rubbery feel unless you are running treaded tires where you also have the feel of tread squirm… The SS2’s had this feeling of tread Squirm to me even when driving on slick tires in game. So basically for me it felt like driving on street tires with a race car… Which honestly can be exciting at times BUT it also will eventually leave you with a bit of a sense of always trying to catch up with what the car is doing…
The SC2 with all of its adjustments thankfully for all does allow you to tune everything to get the feeling from the car you desire whether it be firm to soft, subdued to spiky, in feedback. I personally haven’t driven in RF2 really at all so I couldn’t give an opinion on their tire model but from what I jusderstand because of RF2’s open source nature you can have a vast good to bad range on tire models from car to car so what might be nice and drivable on one car may be strange on another.
As Beano said drive what you feel comfortable but also don’t be afraid to try the things here and there since you might find something that you actually like more.
Every 3rd to 5th post is about poor FFB for this simulator. I find the problem, the problem is not in Simucube Pro, but from iracing side. No one support me in iracing forum, so i write here, maybe people support me. iRacing has very well FFB but for some reason it works well not for all. I find decent ffb setup, but it’s gone very fast just in next day. Now i can’t find this FFB, and i think that people must speak about this poor ffb. you can help me here https://forums.iracing.com/discussion/4172/iracing-ffb-telemetry-how-to-log-direct-drive-telemetry-properly/p1?new=1
This setup was very informative and 72Nm was enough in torq. Now i need to use from 35 to 30Nm to gain something close to that decent FFB, but of course with 35 to 30 nm the wheel is much heavy in overall That’s not right, 72 was enough, the forces distributed right in right places of turn location. But now it’s again just a rack with poor tire loads
I write to support that it’s impossible to have the same FFB and wheel weight in all corners, but they write that they don’t understand what i want to tell him…
Here is example of IMOLA viideo. Two turns where wheel must be much more heavy compared to other corners, but again they don’t understand what i want to tell?
My wheels are all typically similar in weight and diameter, so I don’t have to worry about that so much. But if I happen to fit the lighter FS1 for example, I might increase some filters a bit, and vice-versa when I fit the much heavier old fanatec bmw rim.
That’s not right, 72 was enough, the forces distributed right in right places of turn location. But now it’s again just a rack with poor tire loads
