50 is not enough now. 40 is just a bit heavy rack. The FFB is cheap. As I write, there is no informative FFB now. Just a primitive rack. I buy dd wheel for 2000$ to feel heavy rack? It’s not serious. As I write, they steal my good FFB, now it’s poor. It was awesome even with 72Nm… One evening. Just hear what I writing here.
On iracing link I provide he told my telemetry is bad. Next day I made telemetry again and it become normal, but I don’t touch my FFB. Someone is mislead people and don’t want to tell the true problem, or feature
I install ACC yesterday to check if my Wheel is okay and i find it works well and also the forces i try to back to my iracing is already present in ACC. I don’t play ACC about a year, so there is no mislead feelings and there is no miracle FFB i think i have in iracing, this FFB is already present one evening in iracing and it was awesome and more precise and better than ACC FFB o: But it’s gone, just next day. Now my wheel don’t have enough forces like i write
The problem over on iRacing is that no one can understand your claim of lost feedback from one day to the next, as that is impossible from a programming standpoint unless weather or track conditions are changing radically (which you all say isn’t happening).
As well you don’t NEED to run 35Nm on Max Force unless you WANT that added weight that you talk about from the wheel.
Now if you found 72Nm fine with one car on a certain track and changed cars and ran that same track OR used the same car but are running two different tracks then yes you could need different Settings to get the same “feel” as the cars will react differently to the track and/or each track has differing characteristics. ie Imola is actually a very smooth track in its iRacing scan which means there is not nearly as much stuff coming through the wheel as there would be on say Sebring.
Though with that added weight in iRacings case comes with it amplified lower details as iRacing doesn’t amplify these details arbitrarily when in linear mode. The only way to alternatively amplify these lower signals is through the use of something like irFFB or Non-Linear mode.
So if running at 35Nm is where you are finding the detail you want from the wheel then you will probably have to learn how to drive the car with the added steering weight… i.e let the car do more of the work, Normally if the cars steering is weighting up super heavy it is the car telling you “I DONT want to do what you are telling me to do… so STOP making me do it”
Just remember in order to get FULL fidelity from a car the Max Force setting has to be at or above the Max usable force the car you are driving puts out in telemetry.
Joes suggestion is probably the most appropriate for you but you can also do effectively the same thing by raising the Max Force number to reduce Force as well… (granted they are a slight bit different but not so much as to make a difference in this case) Either way of reducing force IS going to reduce signal amplitude.
Basically some very important detail about what your set-up is and what you are doing is missing in your descriptions as from what you are explaining as random loss of feedback from the game (while still getting Feedback just not as good with all settings the same) is to put it bluntly Impossible given the way things work at least from the software. Something else in the equation is missing.
I have the SC2 Sport for some time, and i’m wondering about oscillation.
How much oscilliation would normally occur in a real race car if you would let go of the wheel at high speed (in theory of course)?
I have a OMP 320S Alu Wheel, so farly large but when i let go of the wheel in iracing it is oscillating quite badly in my opinion.
I have tried all kinds of settings, different profiles, but i can’t find anything decent. I am mainly driving the Porsche Cup car, but it is noticably and quite annoying in every car.
Below are some settings that i have tried so far. I have tried to increase damping, friction, reco filter, slew rate or ULL, but all to little effect. I have even tried friction and damping at 60% and it was still overshooting like crazy.
I feel like there is a missing link somewhere between 2 filters which i’m not utilizing correctly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
ps. TD is set @ 100% Force, Iracing at wheel force 17nm, Max force 45nm
iRacing wheel force setting should be ignored, it does not matter if you are not using the automatic ffb strength setting in the game -and that would cause inconsistent results, so its better to just not use it.
Some oscillation cannot be avoided as it is caused by the signal processing delays between the game engine and the physical wheel movements, and thus some minor oscillation in simulators is perfectly normal.
It sort of depends on if it is actually Oscilation or it is just wheel movement… Granted with FFB Because of its nature you never really want to let go of the wheel completely as unless you have the vheel very dampened the chances of road induced movement turning into ACTUAL Oscillation increases.
In General Oscilation is when the back and forth movement amplifies in a fairly consistent manner from a small movement to a large overpowering movement… Road Movement is just due to the car running over the road and will cause short spikes and returns of differing magnattides but generally they will not Get Worse as you go… (especially when just stabilizing the wheel)
Generally you should have the wheel set-up to where you can go down the straight and be able to stabilize the wheel with a couple of fingers on it. The Wheel may move back and forth sharply but generally you should be able to just let the wheel make those movements and your touch will calm the return to center.
This does vary a little from car to car but going down a straight in a Race Car should be much like going down a straight in your road car with more vibration and possible stronger movements BUT you hough still be able to stabilize with little effort.
If you are actually having to USE effort to stabilize the wheel then settings are off somewhere and they need to be revisited. NOTE this is not heat of battle holding onto the steering wheel for deal life as that will fatigue you anyway…
basically you should be able to relax when driving straight… Or well relax as much as you can…
No, I haven’t used the Paddock system… I tend to wait a little before upgrading Drivers and things unless I am doing any sort of beta testing for someone…
As for an answer to a portion in your deleted post… The standard app.ini adjustments have been on my machine since the early days… I do believe iRacing has adopted many of these as standard download adjustments though… The only one that they may have not yet is the BumpStop angle.
Hi all,
I have uploaded on Paddock my Simucube 2 Pro Iracing profile and I would like to hear the feedback from you guys.
You can find searcing by Tiago in the user field, as below:
It does not matter in any way. It only sets limits on the FFB level IF you click the automatic FFB strength adjustment that becomes available in the black box after you’ve driven for a while.
Hi, I tried your settings and I dont really like the feeling to be honest. The main issue I felt while testing in the new Porsche cup was that the front end felt a bit disconnected from the wheel, it felt a bit floaty and I had quite a bit of oscillation
It also felt pretty grainy to me but I do use recon filter on 6-7 in iracing
These are my settings to give you an idea of what I like to feel. For example I set max force to 70 for the Porsche cup, 75 for the Porsche GT3 and 91 for the LMP2
Hi!
In my opinion I would start using this configuration with 60 Nm in Iracing (for example) in GT3. It is a very good starting point, and then, I would make small and progressive changes until they find the driving pleasure
Finally, this video explain the different effects to the true drive filters. I think that video is useful to learn to modify the filters.
