Never had an issue with centering here, but probably because my TD is running 100% and I adjust in-sim to my liking.
Even with those filters I am using, running the TD at full setting gives me really good dynamic range and fidelity, especially my servo is capable of 45NM. My only comment was to say that filters will be dependant on personal requirements, servo-size and torque, slew and few other factors.
Even on my real SC2 Ultimate I run similar settings to what I have shown above, because it is extremely powerful and very fast in response. For the Pro, I typically reduced the main-filters all-round by 5%, so I would imagine I would do the same again going to the Sport.
So I would say that your servo torque capability and things like slew and mechanical inertia will determine filtering levels to a larger degree, but, of course, so will personal preference.
I use servo D, F and I to equilibrate my steering wheels to a given Overall force, because is not the same a light formula rim that a round chubby one.
Any other filter I change is to achieve the best signal from the sim, It is like a 2 step setup for me.
Yep, good way of doing it My wheels are all typically similar in weight and diameter, so I don’t have to worry about that so much. But if I happen to fit the lighter FS1 for example, I might increase some filters a bit, and vice-versa when I fit the much heavier old fanatec bmw rim.
So wheel weight and also diameter will have quite a significant impact if you especially reduce TD torque level, more so than if you kept TD at 100%.
But that is the beauty about these wheels, so much adjustability that there is no real ‘wrong’ way to do things, it is very dependant on personal capability and needs/wants.
Part of the main differences with Beanos setup is that he is using a completely different servo than anyone else with the SC2… This means that while his setting may work dynamically they will probably be pretty different as electro-mechanical properties of a Kollmorgen 65 are significantly different than the Servo which is being used in the Pro or the Sport, or even the Ultimate Or for that matter even a similar L to K wind on a Kollmorgen.
So with that the settings for filtering notwithstanding the personalization factors will be different…
This can be seen alone in my settings between my Large Mige SC1 and the SC2 Pro, while there is a degree where they cannot be compared directly they both have relatively the same power levels and I run them as such but with the Large Mige and the 1.x release of the config tool which is similar to TrueDrive with the adjustment I run Recon - 7, Damping - 32.5% Friction 0%, and Inertia 5%, This System does not have Skew but then at the same time I don’t belive it would need it where with the Pro to get the feel I like I run the 17%D, 10%F and 7%I with the recon at 4 and a bunch of skew…
For me at these settings these two wheel options feel remarkably similar but are Vastly different in what and How they need to be controlled.
So this is where it is best to find settings of similar units to try (though it is NOT a bad thing to try others just in case some things transfer). Not having tried the Sport out I can’t even say the sport would need similar settings to the Pro and I would guess the Ultimate is probably completely different as well.
As for power level and settings. YES that can change the feel but in many cases if you are using settings from the same servo/model the results will be similar IF it is the servo being controlled ONLY and you are not using the settings to color the game output to a certain feel… I.e severely under or over setting a filter relative the servos optimal control point.
In normal use (not sim just motor control) all of these settings are used to normalize servo behavior so that it will do the same thing predictably with any signal it may be given at any power level that it needs to use… The GOAL with the settings in regard to the sim would be to reach this normalization as well but due to the constant nature of signal from a sim it is VERY difficult to do and so we get into the car to car, Game to Game, and Person to Person variances.
So we sit and play and hopefully find what is good for us as an individual and IF it works for us we share and hope it helps someone else find what they need.
[Are these game-specific threads the right place to put game-specific but random questions?]
I actually prefer the rubber tire feel of absolute minimum (0.1 Nm/ms) Slew Rate Limit.
What are the consequences and how significant are they since it is per millisecond?
Is it objectively wrong to prefer such low slew rates?
For the record, this is why I prefer a dedicated smoothing filter (which might be the same effect in practice) as it gives me tire rubber and tire flex info I didn’t have before.
It seems anything more than 0.2 loses this rubber tire feeling.
Am I way off base? Do people really use high Slew Rates in iRacing?
There’s no right or wrong. Most people are using settings that are not at all representative of real life, I.w extreme over-active and noisy/spiky.
If you like that low slew-rate, use it, why not. It is very close to what you would feel in a SS2 Bodnar wheel, btw. I don’t like the balloon-tyre feeling though, that was why I sold my SS2 wheels, as it was to extreme.
Luckily, the SC2 series cater for both ends of the spectrum.
PS: An overall smoothing filter isn’t the way to go, as it will add unnecessary latency to the ffb. The current filters are more than capable to have the same effect on ffb without the added latency overall smoothing would bring, plus, Reconstruction filter 2 is being developed by Tero.
I will probably be used to do alpha-testing on that again, let’s see how Tero goes with that. I captured heaps of data already a good while back for him to use, so knowing him, it will be under firm development already. And Mika is extremely pro-active with the HID side of things, so I am expecting good things to come over the next year.
Once that drops, it will bring SC2 to another level again.
I don’t necessarily like a balloon feeling but I do like the rubbery feeling, the tire flex, the feeling of an air filled tire. I’m just trying to get closer to rF2, which doesn’t require extreme settings.
The last statement about the tire models is really the thing that is so different between games and in Real life which is why there are differences from real life…
From my experience many race cars while they have a little give in the feel of the tire it is not that much. it gives you the sense of rolling onto the rubber but not a VERY Rubbery feel unless you are running treaded tires where you also have the feel of tread squirm… The SS2’s had this feeling of tread Squirm to me even when driving on slick tires in game. So basically for me it felt like driving on street tires with a race car… Which honestly can be exciting at times BUT it also will eventually leave you with a bit of a sense of always trying to catch up with what the car is doing…
The SC2 with all of its adjustments thankfully for all does allow you to tune everything to get the feeling from the car you desire whether it be firm to soft, subdued to spiky, in feedback. I personally haven’t driven in RF2 really at all so I couldn’t give an opinion on their tire model but from what I jusderstand because of RF2’s open source nature you can have a vast good to bad range on tire models from car to car so what might be nice and drivable on one car may be strange on another.
As Beano said drive what you feel comfortable but also don’t be afraid to try the things here and there since you might find something that you actually like more.
Every 3rd to 5th post is about poor FFB for this simulator. I find the problem, the problem is not in Simucube Pro, but from iracing side. No one support me in iracing forum, so i write here, maybe people support me. iRacing has very well FFB but for some reason it works well not for all. I find decent ffb setup, but it’s gone very fast just in next day. Now i can’t find this FFB, and i think that people must speak about this poor ffb. you can help me here https://forums.iracing.com/discussion/4172/iracing-ffb-telemetry-how-to-log-direct-drive-telemetry-properly/p1?new=1
This setup was very informative and 72Nm was enough in torq. Now i need to use from 35 to 30Nm to gain something close to that decent FFB, but of course with 35 to 30 nm the wheel is much heavy in overall That’s not right, 72 was enough, the forces distributed right in right places of turn location. But now it’s again just a rack with poor tire loads
I write to support that it’s impossible to have the same FFB and wheel weight in all corners, but they write that they don’t understand what i want to tell him…
Here is example of IMOLA viideo. Two turns where wheel must be much more heavy compared to other corners, but again they don’t understand what i want to tell?
50 is not enough now. 40 is just a bit heavy rack. The FFB is cheap. As I write, there is no informative FFB now. Just a primitive rack. I buy dd wheel for 2000$ to feel heavy rack? It’s not serious. As I write, they steal my good FFB, now it’s poor. It was awesome even with 72Nm… One evening. Just hear what I writing here.
On iracing link I provide he told my telemetry is bad. Next day I made telemetry again and it become normal, but I don’t touch my FFB. Someone is mislead people and don’t want to tell the true problem, or feature
I install ACC yesterday to check if my Wheel is okay and i find it works well and also the forces i try to back to my iracing is already present in ACC. I don’t play ACC about a year, so there is no mislead feelings and there is no miracle FFB i think i have in iracing, this FFB is already present one evening in iracing and it was awesome and more precise and better than ACC FFB o: But it’s gone, just next day. Now my wheel don’t have enough forces like i write
The problem over on iRacing is that no one can understand your claim of lost feedback from one day to the next, as that is impossible from a programming standpoint unless weather or track conditions are changing radically (which you all say isn’t happening).
As well you don’t NEED to run 35Nm on Max Force unless you WANT that added weight that you talk about from the wheel.
Now if you found 72Nm fine with one car on a certain track and changed cars and ran that same track OR used the same car but are running two different tracks then yes you could need different Settings to get the same “feel” as the cars will react differently to the track and/or each track has differing characteristics. ie Imola is actually a very smooth track in its iRacing scan which means there is not nearly as much stuff coming through the wheel as there would be on say Sebring.
Though with that added weight in iRacings case comes with it amplified lower details as iRacing doesn’t amplify these details arbitrarily when in linear mode. The only way to alternatively amplify these lower signals is through the use of something like irFFB or Non-Linear mode.
So if running at 35Nm is where you are finding the detail you want from the wheel then you will probably have to learn how to drive the car with the added steering weight… i.e let the car do more of the work, Normally if the cars steering is weighting up super heavy it is the car telling you “I DONT want to do what you are telling me to do… so STOP making me do it”
Just remember in order to get FULL fidelity from a car the Max Force setting has to be at or above the Max usable force the car you are driving puts out in telemetry.
Joes suggestion is probably the most appropriate for you but you can also do effectively the same thing by raising the Max Force number to reduce Force as well… (granted they are a slight bit different but not so much as to make a difference in this case) Either way of reducing force IS going to reduce signal amplitude.
Basically some very important detail about what your set-up is and what you are doing is missing in your descriptions as from what you are explaining as random loss of feedback from the game (while still getting Feedback just not as good with all settings the same) is to put it bluntly Impossible given the way things work at least from the software. Something else in the equation is missing.
I have the SC2 Sport for some time, and i’m wondering about oscillation.
How much oscilliation would normally occur in a real race car if you would let go of the wheel at high speed (in theory of course)?
I have a OMP 320S Alu Wheel, so farly large but when i let go of the wheel in iracing it is oscillating quite badly in my opinion.
I have tried all kinds of settings, different profiles, but i can’t find anything decent. I am mainly driving the Porsche Cup car, but it is noticably and quite annoying in every car.
Below are some settings that i have tried so far. I have tried to increase damping, friction, reco filter, slew rate or ULL, but all to little effect. I have even tried friction and damping at 60% and it was still overshooting like crazy.
I feel like there is a missing link somewhere between 2 filters which i’m not utilizing correctly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
ps. TD is set @ 100% Force, Iracing at wheel force 17nm, Max force 45nm
iRacing wheel force setting should be ignored, it does not matter if you are not using the automatic ffb strength setting in the game -and that would cause inconsistent results, so its better to just not use it.
Some oscillation cannot be avoided as it is caused by the signal processing delays between the game engine and the physical wheel movements, and thus some minor oscillation in simulators is perfectly normal.
It sort of depends on if it is actually Oscilation or it is just wheel movement… Granted with FFB Because of its nature you never really want to let go of the wheel completely as unless you have the vheel very dampened the chances of road induced movement turning into ACTUAL Oscillation increases.
In General Oscilation is when the back and forth movement amplifies in a fairly consistent manner from a small movement to a large overpowering movement… Road Movement is just due to the car running over the road and will cause short spikes and returns of differing magnattides but generally they will not Get Worse as you go… (especially when just stabilizing the wheel)
Generally you should have the wheel set-up to where you can go down the straight and be able to stabilize the wheel with a couple of fingers on it. The Wheel may move back and forth sharply but generally you should be able to just let the wheel make those movements and your touch will calm the return to center.
This does vary a little from car to car but going down a straight in a Race Car should be much like going down a straight in your road car with more vibration and possible stronger movements BUT you hough still be able to stabilize with little effort.
If you are actually having to USE effort to stabilize the wheel then settings are off somewhere and they need to be revisited. NOTE this is not heat of battle holding onto the steering wheel for deal life as that will fatigue you anyway…
basically you should be able to relax when driving straight… Or well relax as much as you can…
No, I haven’t used the Paddock system… I tend to wait a little before upgrading Drivers and things unless I am doing any sort of beta testing for someone…
As for an answer to a portion in your deleted post… The standard app.ini adjustments have been on my machine since the early days… I do believe iRacing has adopted many of these as standard download adjustments though… The only one that they may have not yet is the BumpStop angle.
My wheels are all typically similar in weight and diameter, so I don’t have to worry about that so much. But if I happen to fit the lighter FS1 for example, I might increase some filters a bit, and vice-versa when I fit the much heavier old fanatec bmw rim.
That’s not right, 72 was enough, the forces distributed right in right places of turn location. But now it’s again just a rack with poor tire loads
