is it just me or does it feel like the controls are really laggy, like theres a massive delay between your steering and the game reacting? there’s def a visual delay and ppl say it’s only graphical but that argument makes no sense, why would the steering wheel visuals be delayed if the rest of the visuals aren’t? it’s either all delayed or it’s not, it feels just as laggy as it looks,
here’s a vid of laggy controls laggy controls
I have the wheel and hands turned off in the settings because I find them distracting, but I played for about 6 hours yesterday and at no point did I feel like there was any control lag. After the initial setup of all my hardware, which took a bit and was more trouble than it should be, I’ve had no control issues of any kind.
Stutters for me were horrible at first but are more or less gone, or at least very manageable now. They still need to fix it, don’t get me wrong.
Overall I’m really liking this. I’m not super happy with the FFB settings I copied over from DR 2.0 but they are good enough for the moment.
I also believe the game takes a while to react on steering inputs, feels like the infamous rubber band effect. Also feels like there’s no power steering as someone else already mentioned.
I spent the last hour with tweaking the in-game and TP settings, but didn’t manage to achieve anything nearly as good as DR 2 FFB (Kim). Yes, “as good as”, DR 2 feels much better.
I really hope someone more at home with this kind of FFB tuning and Simucube internals will soon provide some usable settings, TD and ingame. 
I wonder if what feels like input lag for some people is related to stutters or some other odd problem. I’m not world class or anything in DR 2.0 (and by extension WRC) but I am generally top 5% on leaderboards and sometimes less than 10 seconds from the world record, and I feel like I would notice immediately if there was meaningful input lag. The physics do feel different, but I wouldn’t describe them as laggy-feeling. If anything the car just feels like it has more weight to me. Hard to say.
Had the same experience with the stutters, quickly went from unplayable to barely noticeable.
Main thing keeping me from diving into the game is lack of telemetry, which should be added soon though from what I read.
Issues aside, I think the potential for a really fun Rally game is there, my opinion at least.
Hoi Short!
I am also no world record breaker - but I know how direct response and delayed response feels.
Unfortunately, we cannot compare our perception without a common base: I don’t know which settings you used for DR2 which feel quite similar with WRC. I got stuck with the “Kim” settings, very direct and fast. Here, post by Mika, 2019-08-02: Dirt Rally 2.0 and Simucube 2 - #28 by mory
So I suggest you try those settings with DR2, then with WRC. You should feel a massive difference, from direct and responsive to sluggish and rubber-like. You should also notice some lack of feedback in the steering center, like a deadzone.
If not, I would LOVE to try your settings, in-game and TD.
Ah, forgot: I also experienced some stutters despite my quite capable system - but the “rubberness” is always present, from start to end of a stage.
Ok - I’m using a different one I know, but I’m not sure which one. I do know they’re significantly different though. I’ll share them here quick (apologies for the photo quality, i took a quick snap yesterday to copy the settings from DR2.0 to WRC.
They’re significantly different enough from yours that I’m not sure I’d be able to give a real comparison due to not being at all what I’m used to.
It very well may be input lag, or a bug, or who knows at this stage I’d say. Hopefully it gets better for you!
Thanks, will check it, i hope it gets better
I can’t imagine sharing TD profiles will be a great help. Among other stuff your inertia at 36% will, if steering wheels are not identical in weight, lead to totally different experiences. Before using other profiles it’s better to check some basic data. Btw, the torque percentage ain’t visible.
I don’t disagree - I shared it more to emphasize that 's markedly different from the suggested one. I’m also not the best at setting up FFB, I got this one somewhere and tweaked it in some fashion, but I have no real recollection.
Sorry, torque got cut off - it’s at I believe 40 or 45.
One of my friends without a simucube wheel is complaining that it feels like there’s significant control lag for him as well, so I still wonder if there’s some bug that’s affecting some people but not others.
Only had few hours to play with it, sure there is more room for improvement but should be a good starting point. Still can’t figure out how to make tarmac feel decent except dropping Self Aligning Torque as it just gets crazy grippy and strong.
BTW, with DLAA preset C, DLSS dll 3.5.10, and a small amount NVidia Sharpening game looks quite stunning. Search DlssTweaks for more info.
BTW, explanation of individual FFB parameters from DR 2.0, which is the same as WRC
Each setting is either a toggle or a slider from 0%-150% strength.
VIBRATION & FEEDBACK Toggle FFB On or Off manually.If the device is unsupported its initial state is supplied by your device drivers (do they report that FFB is supported) denoted by “Device Driver”.
If your device driver is miss-reporting (happens with highly custom or old devices) you can manually toggle FFB On
SELF-ALIGNING TORQUE This scales the torque created by the tyre and suspension geometry.
WHEEL FRICTION This scales the constant friction/weight of the steering device.
TYRE FRICTION This scales the dynamic friction of the tyre. This is the resistance of the tyre to turn.
SUSPENSION This scales an effect that is generated by taking information directly from the vehicle’s suspension. Use this to emphasise the road noise.
TYRE SLIP This scales an effect that is generated by taking information directly from the tyres. If you are using a controller, it scales the slip of the front and rear tyres.
ENGINE This scales an effect that is generated by taking information directly from the vehicle’s engine. Use this to scale the resonance that comes from your engine as it is revved.
COLLISION This scales an effect that is generated by taking information directly from an impact. Use this to scale the severity of the collision effect.
SOFT LOCK This scales the force that informs the player when they exceed the soft lock range of the wheel.
STEERING CENTER FORCE This scales the return to centre force when the vehicle is reset to the track. This will assist you in straightening the wheels before moving forward.
STEERING CENTER FORCE ENABLED Toggle steering center force.
And it’s using DI Friction, so do not turn it down in TD if you want some weight in the wheel coming from game, SAT can be quite jerky without one.
Dear all,
Hope guys you can help me…
Wheel calibration issue
I have simucube 2 sport. Steering wheel range is set to 540º at True drive.
In game settings:this 540º at true drive is not translated at wrc in game settings.
When I caliber the wheel I follow the steps… that’s to say… first turn the wheel until you can not turn it more and second recenter the wheel and turn the wheel 90º in one direction.
With these steps the car is not manageable… barely I move the wheel and the car is outside the road.
Anyone can help me?
Thank you very much!
Followed calibration as instructed and no issues, did you change device type to steering wheel, did you assign left AND right input, how wheel axis look on main input assignment screen after calibration, does it go to 0 at center and maxes out at bumpstops on both sides.
Dear andrew,
I check all the issues and problem persist.
In ingame wrc settings rotation degree is 180ª and not 540º
Thank you again!
Yeah, honestly not sure. The instruction is weird though, usually it’s all the way one direction and full stop the other. This one is asking for 90 degrees.
All I did is cranked it until full stop one way, held there, clicked Next, and following prompt returned to center and set to 90 degrees, clicked Next.
I see that your steering linearity is -1, perhaps that’s the problem.
As Andrew already suggested: You need to rotate the wheel two times for calibration.
First time, you do a FULL rotation up to the bump stop, either to the left or to right, then continue.
The second time, you need to rotate the wheel exactly 90 ° to the left or right, don’t move the wheel any more, just continue.
That should calibrate your wheel correctly.
Here’s my settings suggestions.
Feels lighter and far less like steering a steamroller into rubber, a bit more “nervous” and less sluggish.
Still a far cry from how I like it, but a little step closer. Just try and improve.
I don’t own the game, so just a second thoughts:
If you had the game open/active at the time you made the screenshot then none of the DI filters is available, and therefore not active.
If there is such a filter available you will see an empty circle instead of the - sign, if it is actually used you will see the circle filled.
DI filters are from game developer side not well documented at all, nor do we know how, when and why they are active. Some like DI damping should only work while the car is stationary (Fe in AC), but this isn’t the case. IF they work, then having them at 200 percent will literally fuck up your FFB.
The wave filters sometimes don’t react when they are at 100 percent. To find out if they are available you have to change them to Fe 99 or 101. Only then you can be really sure that they aren’t available, or available. I experience that in Kylotonn WRC titles. All of a sudden spring effect was activated after I lowered to 99.
Ullm can be contra productive when you have it too high. And if you use it (its purpose is to be able to use lower constant damping and friction values without oscillation), try to reduce them.
I also saw that you use in both settings center force. Maybe using it either here or there would be better.
Ah, Mr Clayregazzoni!
Indeed, I know that “filled circle” (bullet symbol) if an DI filter is active - with WRC, it’s only the second one, friction, if I remember right.
The “200” values shouldn’t be in the screenshot - these are remnants from testing, to provoke a reaction, which didn’t happen. Thus it makes no difference if you keep the values at the default 100 or play with them. I just corrected the screenshot.
I cranked up ULLM for exactly the purpose you described: WRC standard FFB feels like delayed and dampened, rubbery, like the car’s weight is 4 tonnes, also a bit like the first-generation steering wheels with just a spring for centering, also a bit like a G29 without the clatter. High ULLM values seem to help suppressing the rubbery feeling and strong oscillation the game produces with less dampening. But I’ll try if lower values work even better.
Thank you very much also for all the other hints; I am struggling with understanding the majority of the parameters, so I am very happy about every bit of explanation. 
