Just tried these, and good lord…that is some strong and snappy feedback. I am going to need to reduce the in-game Gain down substantially, but will then try further and report back.
Thanks for posting these.
Edit: couldn’t wait to keep tweaking, so avoided working a little longer to try and tinker a little more. I left TD Power at 100% (versus your 80%), and put ACC Gain at 40% (versus your 70%) and it is feeling pretty good overall. Lots of force, but manageable. Between this and the Wave Italy pedals with the firmest rubbers, I’ll be getting a good workout each drive session. Still some tweaking to do, for sure.
I have been advised by some mates with DD wheels that somehow ACC works better with higher ingame strength meaning lower TD, but i am not sure if it makes so much difference anyway. Indeed the forces are on the high side so totally a workout! But the thing is that you get a good level of detail. Also if you are into ACC i would suggest you tried the ACCFFB. It is not a game changer but improves things.
Will look into ACCFB, thanks for the tip. Are there setting inside of the app I need to add? Or is it just a plug-in that helps to optimize existing settings in TD and ACC in-game?
It creates a virtual joystick which “replaces” simucube in ACC. This is needed for the purposes of the ACCFFB software.If you are interested in this let me know.
Finally got back to driving with Panos’ settings…changed it to 100% in TD and 40% in game. Only did 2 laps earlier in the week when I first tested. This “strength” felt good to me.
Tied my PB (1:48.2) at Monza in just 4 lap, with some clear mistakes on my part. Not an impressive lap by any means, but I’ve only been racing for like 30 mins max per month the past 7-8 months…very rusty and was never good to begin with…so that’s promising for me. Felt really good and I could feel the car well. FWIW I’m new to sim racing overall, only had a rig for 2-3 months prior to that 7-8 month period where I rarely, if ever, had time to race.
Thanks again for the settings, super excited to keep getting acclimated with them.
You can remove road effects altogether now, the wheel is chatty enough already.
And I doubt you would want to touch anything else after spending some time with it, it’s sooo good.
I don’t understand what the new damping setting does…
from the changelog :
Added Damper option under FFB settings - controls how much damping is allowed through the wheel driver’s DI Damping setting.
in TD it activates damper di effect constantly when driving with the “active” sign - full circle - so not only when the car is stationary as was before the update
edit: I posted the question in Kunos forum, let’s see if I get an answer.
Ignore it, it’s DI damper and completely redundant when Dynamic Damper is used.
For reference my settings with new physics/ffb. Lower in game gain to your liking.
It behaves exactly like Min force DI Damper in AC. The amount of DI Damper left active when car is moving. I am not sure why they added it, perhaps for folks who don’t like Dynamic one and wheels not having constantly operated damper filter like SC.
EDIT: Remember that Dynamic damper is not really a Damper per se and is implemented via Constant force
I left my Panos settings as they were in TD and ACC (I had already turned Gain to 45% and Road Effects to 0%) and it’s incredible. Honestly feels amazing…really, really good.
so as Aris just said on stream, di damping in the wheel driver - TD - should be set at 100% and ingame damper at whatever value you feel comfortable with, he’s using 50 with dynamic at 100 as usual.
If you indeed want to use DI Damper, which is inferior IMO to constantly operating SC damper (if you want extra on the top of Dynamic one) which also does not clutter the signal as DI.
Remember DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL from AC, this is exactly it.
Thanks for the feedback, guys. Seems like you are all giving it a big thumbs up
I haven’t had the chance to try out the update yet but have just finished watching Aris’s live stream.
It was interesting to discover that the game previously had some degree of DI damping baked into the FFB although it couldn’t be seen or adjusted via the in game settings. I had no idea that was the case.
I’ve always had DI damping set to 100% in TD but the indicator bubble always seemed to be empty whenever I checked. For now, I think I’ll leave that where it is, set the in game damper to zero and work my way upwards to see what feels best.