It was introduced in AC first specifically with DD wheels in mind as belt driven already have natural damping to deal with oscillation and snapback.
And current devs recommendation is to use 100% for DD wheels and lower number or not at all for conventional belt/gear driven ones.
If you play AC, modders have tried to improve stock Gyro, alternate implementation is available with CSP/CM. It’s a mixed bag, as while it helps with wheel recovery, snapback can be on aggressive side and oscillation needs extra external damping that can lead to the loss of overall fidelity. May be your findings with SFR can help there too.
Yeah i know, but for me it just doesnt work…it just kills the capabilities of DD…
Oh yes that was on my mind as well. I dont know what happened to me the last few months but i cant stand AC as well, while previously i was loving it. Suddenly it feels so unrealistic to me with whatever gyro i tried csp or otherwise. So indeed my next step was to see if the same idea can be applied there as well. Also i am currently doing some further testing with ACC and in few i am about to post some more hardcore settings (not sure if they would be ok for long races). I feel like that the SFR can indeed act as snapback tamer but it needs ULL that somehow actually smooths out the rebound forces, so its a combination. I was able to lower down a bit dynamic damping as well and the TD damping so oversteer and grip loss can be better controlled. I think that dynamic damping is still useful and cannot totally be turned off. Anyway, have you had to chance to test?
Finally got a chance to play with these settings, didn’t use ‘hardcore’, just one with DD at 20%.
Was testing with Maserati GT4 on Zandvoort, car doesn’t have any TC at all and this twisty track is really good for testing understeer/oversteer and grip/no grip transitioning.
Unfortunately even with SFR at 25% the spiky snapbacks were still present, interesting that seems like on moderate to slow wheel return speed SFR was catching and slowing it down but for quicker ones it was failing to activate and I was still getting harsh wheel jerking, suspect it has some duration timer before it kicks in.
Using SFR though works almost like gamma, allowing to boost lower forces with higher overall gain and making FFB feel more detailed. It works quite well even at 100% DD, in fact I liked that combo more than DD 20%.
ULL, still not so sure about it, effect from it was not so obvious to tell for sure if it helps or harms things, so in the end I just turned it off.
Still contemplating if using SFR is a good thing, on one hand it adds immersion, on the other hand breaks linearity of response intended by physics engine, but same thing can be said about Road Effects.
EDIT:
SFR 15% with these settings really kicks FFB up a notch or two. ACC is just too zealous with REALLY loading tires in turns making wheel super heavy. With SFR the ride is much more joyful with more informative corners, you can really play with throttle to keep the car on the edge.
Thanks Pancshoin, EsxPaul
High Dynamic Damping is still not my cup of tea but it’s cool that out of all this you improved your settings. Conversing and sharing ideas/experiences is always helpful. I mean even for myself it took me almost 2 years to realize that SFR can be a powerful tool .
I think that is where ULL comes into. Obviously cannot explain it as it a mystery how this thing works, but it seems to accelerate in this instance the application of SFR smoothing out in a way the spikes. I was sort of getting this feeling you are describing but started incrementally adding ULL and seems that is doing the trick even on quick tight corners. Also, in the more hardcore setting (basically less damping in TD and in game) leading to quicker wheel reactions, i had to slightly increase ULL. I cannot say that it is 100%perfect, but it is a 95% and lot better for me than before.
Anyway the important thing is that now we have improved settings (either with dynamic damping or not) that people can check, adjust/improve and have a better experience with ACC.
I think you might be right, and after some restarts I almost got rid of it.
Looks like ACC FFB needs complete race restart to fully take settings either from in game changes or TD.
My observation though that it is not much of a problem with Dynamic Damping per se, but with disproportionally high loading in corners. And SFR fixes this nicely even with DD at full 100%.
With everything else, the effect from changes is quite subtle and subjectively not always positive.
For myself as a long time user of AC/ACC Gyro/Dynamic Damping, SFR alone balances things to almost perfection.
And another thing, looks like reduced snapback effect is not a direct function of SFR but the result of reduced loading in corners. Lower the force, lower the counterforce. So there is no magic with hidden dampening.
BTW, SFR also improves things in AC, will keep the same 15% in my AC profile as well.
I am not claiming that no filtering is the best way, because it is so subjective. I Just wanted to say that 100 on the wheel with 100gain and no dynamic dampening with lowering the ffb per car with numpad 2 (numpad 8 increases) felt great for me since it gives a good center power due to gain, no oscillations after finding the sweet spot of ffb per car, and a fast responce wheel due to no dynamic dampening. Ofc some will like it, some will not, but that is OK.
I prefer to have the minimum possible filters as well so I understand. I ll check your suggestions for sure as there is always room for improvement and new ideas. But I admit they seem to be a bit hardcore… What also puzzles me is why you are going 100 gain ingame and then decrease it for each car. I would expect that there shouldn’t be much difference between cars on that aspect and therefore why not set the gain let’s say to 60-70% for all and maybe do minor adjustments per car on the fly?
It was harder for me to find the sweet spot when i had to tune 2 values. So i Just had the gain at 100 and had only the value of the car which for me at least yielded better results. I don’t reccomend my settings but they work for me at least. After tuning those values the only thing that is on my way for better times in acc is the setup of the car. To give you an example Mercedes amg gt3 2020 in spa is far better for me with the safe setup rather than the aggresive. But if you make a custom setup it will be even better. So ffb settings aren’t always the problem when something seems off. With safe setup i could go flat out on la rouge when with the aggresive it was a mess.
They seem to give better feeling and connection to the car especially during countersteering, grip loss and driving at the limit. If you guys are up to give it a try. You may adjust gain and TD strength to your liking if you find my values too much.
A big thanks to the people in the forum sharing experiences and ideas!
For the quick snap back issue it is something in the character of the SC2 use Slew rate to slow the initial reaction of the wheel. I am not sure how much you will need in Assetto (I use 3.25 in iRacing) as I have not been doing much playing with that title.
Thanks, I have tried playing with slew rate before, never worked for me, feels more like putting some thick insulating cover over nice speakers, it just kills fidelity, may be it’s better suited for lower res iRacing signal.
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