Vibrations/vibrating noise coming from motor

Dear Granite Devices and others

At the start of this month, I received my new SC2 Pro and coming from a Fanatec CSL Elite the difference is night and day! (I even got quicker) So thank you for that.

But sadly my motor is making quite aggressive/notchy vibrating noise when fighting the FFB. I can also feel the vibrations and that’s what is worrying me the most.
I’ve seen some posts about similar sounds so I already confirmed that all QR related items are tight.
I tried the exact profiles from 5 friends who have the same motor and I still get the same vibrations. tried to play with all type of settings. The only thing that somewhat dampens the noise is putting the notch filter on max, but the only reason the sound and vibrations are less clear is because the FFB is just gone and became more like a huge spring.

I first want to check here on the forum what my exact issue could be before I contact the reseller to have this sorted out. Because this is not normal.

bumpy street course:
weaving on smooth/flat track:
Sim: iRacing
Profiles: Daniel Moradness GT3 + others (with resonance filter on and off)

Thanks in advance
Kind regards

This is normal, try to increase recon filter.

Hey Andrew

Recon filter is what I meant with notch filter. Have to put it on max and the vibrations are still noticeable and any ffb fidelity is gone.

Strange that this noise is considered normal while I’m the only one from my simracing budies that has this issue.

I maybe could get around the noise as I wear headphones, but the vibrations/notchy feel when I just wiggle the wheel back and forth (even out of sim) just doesn’t seem right to just accept as normal?

Recon, or reconstruction filters and peaking and notch filters are 2 pair of totally different shoes. In case you changed settings in peaking and notch I would disable them for now.

Reconstruction filters will increase a type of rubber band effect feeling. Higher numbers, more of the effect.

Constant damping at 20, friction at 10 plus inertia at 15 will all work on the motor’s dynamics, and all in the same way:

Damping works on the ability to deliver fast changing FFB effects, overall FFB will loose details and dynamics.

Friction is adding resistance to the movement. Look at it as gravel on a snowy street. It can prevent you from slipping in an uncomfortable way, but too much will make you stuck. You will loose FFB dynamic, it gets much harder to turn the steering wheel fast.

Inertia is helpful if you have a light weight steering wheel. Such a light wheel could oscillate quite easily. A heavier steering wheel won’t need additional inertia at all. More inertia will make it harder to change the position of the steering wheel. Maximum inertia produces a wheel impossible to move.

For verification also set all direct input effects to 100 percent, except damping and friction. Set these at 0 for now.

Because you use all of the filters the motor has to be regulated in many ways. It must been stopped from moving fast, weight has to be added and much more. The sound you hear is a side effect of this. The motor is not at its limits, not at all. It’s more stopping it from developing the full power/capabilities what you hear.

iRacing has quite “rough” 60hz signal, have you tried ACC for instance with its 400hz?
With it Recon can be quite low, I have it just at 1, and there is barely any sound, just some rare very faint whirring.
The way and the surface the wheelbase is mounted to can amplify vibration as well.
May be Mika or other support engineers can give you some other advise.
Looking at the second video (smooth surface) I personally did not see or hear anything unusual, but I do not know what your exact settings are.

@CLAYREGAZZONI thanks, I tried some similar settings but will try those exact ones and let you know if it improved or not (can only earliest try tomorrow)

@Andrew_WOT I have the sound as well when quickly moving the wheel back and forth outside of simulator. It is just more pronounced in sim as the ffb is higher. The ‘standby ffb’ is quite a bit lower as it seems more friction resistance.

I don’t have ACC but I have tried AC before. The sound seemed to be a lot higher frequency and was now more an annoying buzzing. Albeit I didn’t really spend much time tweaking the settings just picked a few online profiles.

Did you activate High Torque mode by any chance. If there is a lot of damper/friction you will get resistance and associated noise even when not in sim.


But it should be smooth right and not choppy/notchy? Is worse than my old belt driven wheel…

If you have all effects off, it should be butter smooth without input FFB signal.
Try to create brand new profile with everything on default and see how it behaves outside the game.

@CLAYREGAZZONI Tried those settings, same results sadly.

@Andrew_WOT Tried to put all effects off, like everything off and now the wheel feels smooth without any FFB (just the bumpstop which I forgot to take off)

Just one thing that started to pop up 2 days ago is a scraping noise around the 0° mark. Pushing the Estop and giving it a few spins made it go away at first. But today it stayed there. It seems to come from the back of the motor. I can hear it from the front shaft as well, but it’s more crisp at the back… Will once try to get the QR clamp off but that thing is tight as it can be…

Stupid question maybe: can it be that the QR lock pin is making contact somewhere?
When you say: all effects of, how your settings now look like?

Btw: your videos have the sound, but they show virtual in game steering wheel. Would be much more interesting to see the way your Simucube behaves, and also where the noise is coming from. Some sounds are absolutely normal considering it’s a motor working fast and dynamic. But here, in your case, it’s not this “normal” sound pattern.

Hey Clay
With all off I mean every single slider to the left, recon on 1 etc => feels same as motor is just spinning freely. I had bumpstop still on so if I turned about 90° past it and just go slightly left right (remaining away from bumpstop) I can get the same noise again (but that’s probably because I then have FFB again.

I’ll try again to record something while filming, but found it difficult to pic up the noise by phone… will try some janky stuff with headset.

Best would be a screenshot of both in-game and TD. Bumpstop: in general best is when steering rotation and bumpstop have identical settings. I use a different value for bumpstop only when there is a car with a rotation like 504 (VRC Alpha 2023). Then I set rotation to 500 and set bumpstop to get 504. In AC I set it to 520 and then downscale it to 504.

The noise we know by now. Typically, with accoustic noise reduction activated, you don’t hear knocking, it’s more an electronic “intermezzo” here and there, while under heavy slew rate changes with high FFB. I myself have the volume of the soundbar high, can’t really hear anything else but the car.

Recorded some video with TD settings, this is just on desktop without sim on. Only True Drive:

At 1:24 you can hear same ‘knocking’ noise as I had in iRacing in the videos I shared earlier.

As I was out of sim I turned the wheel again 90° past lock to have stronger FFB.
I turned off every setting and I enabled each one seperatly and I found that Friction filter is bringing up the noise and feeling:

  • Turning of everything => no more sound to be heard, but wheel feels grainy.
  • Putting only friction filter on ~20% => slight sound can be heard again. (FYI The profile I use in sim is only 15% Friction)
  • Friction on 100% => a lot of noise now.

Anyway using my normal profile and having friction on 0% doesn’t change a thing… just seems that it’s the only way to mimic some FFB out of the game. (FYI all FFB settings in game are off except the max torque output related ones)

Profile I use normally:

Expected and totally normal, neither Damper nor Friction are meant to be used at such high settings.
5-15% is normal range, less if you use both in tandem.
Your profile is way too greedy on these effects 24% Damper + 15% Friction + 8% Inertia.
Friction is constantly active and is a primarily source of gritty feeling and noise.

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@Andrew_WOT already mentioned your settings, and I remember my reply from a few days ago.


High Friction settings will make your wheel oscillating. Regardless of beeing in-game or not, with other filters used or not, the wheel gets so stucked that it will start to freak.

Damping is added to friction, does work in a similar direction.

Why do you still add inertia to the steering wheel that doesn’t look lightweight? Absolutely not needed. You add artificial weight, so turning the wheel will become heavier, will work also in the direction of damping and friction in this case.

Limiting slew rate won’t help you. You don’t have a problem of a spiky, harsh wheel. You have the opposite, a heavy wheel that is squeezed.

The latest TD releases have the DI filters friction and damping at 100 percent by default. I already recommended to turn the first two to 0. They sometimes work in constant mode instead of Fe while the car doesn’t move, sometimes they get activated randomly in the middle of a race… DI filters are coming from the game, their availability/functionality depends on how game developers implemented them. There is no information available (or only very few), so using them doesn’t make a lot of sense at the moment.

If you use 80 percent gain in Assetto Corsa you will get a lot of clipping. And you can’t stop it with adding more torque in TD.
Do you use any of the RSS or VRC hybrid cars? Or what cars you drive the most?

Just to get an idea:

Use rotation and bumpstop both with the same value.
Filter 1, unlimited bandwidth
Damping 0, after you drove a bit you can still add.
Friction 0, same procedure
Inertia 0
Slew rate unlimited. You decreased it to almost 0, not by 0 23!! Lower numbers mean more reduction. It’s reduction TO, not BY.
Static force whatever is needed to prevent you from a heavyweight fight in long corners at high speed.
Rest default, except DI damping and friction. Set them to 0.

The noise is to 95 percent a result of your settings, and the 5 percent are the result of a high speed/force/dynamic/precision servo motor at work.

I’ll once try those settings when I’m again in my rig.
I solely drive V8 Supercars in iRacing and tried profiles from other people driving the same car with the same SC2 pro (and they have ZERO noise, dead silent motor…) even tried setting from person having same wheel and buttonbox as me and his motor is also dead silent…

I’m starting to get the feeling that settings won’t work, as nobody I ask can remember their motor making noise regularly. Mine makes constant noise if any type of ffb is delivered.

I’ll try those settings once, but after that I’ll resort to my waranty as they didn’t seem to help. Thanks anyway :slight_smile:

@CLAYREGAZZONI I tried your settings in iRacing and it made it kinda rougher (think that’s because of the higher slew rate?)

Also launched Assetto corsa once and loaded up the Corvette C7R on Brands Hatch (default game content no mods) with your settings (in game gain to 40% rest at default) => my base just becomes a starwars fighter jet scene become real, unacceptable…

I’m applying for my warranty and keep you updated. Thank you

Sorry, my English ain’t that good. So you say it’s what? Too strong?
If so, possible reasons are:
In-game steering assist 0, is it a power steered car? Then default would be 100, at least 80.
In-game per car FFB at 100, makes it undriveable, start with 15.
If you use CSP and Content Manager, turn off/use default settings. No gyroscope, just all at default
TD at 100 percent, full power, which is just too much for a lot of cars.
If it’s too strong in corners increase static force reduction. It allows you to have maintain FFB strength.
I don’t think your Simucube 2 has a problem. But who am I on the other hand. If it was an obvious, known hardware problem @Mika would have already reacted. @Andrew_WOT is very experienced, he also thinks it’s not hardware related. And finally, if you bought it from an official Simucube 2 reseller you might have to reach out to him first. If it is a faulty unit you are in the best hands for sure.

PS: if your security pin is too tight use a screwdriver to adjust the screws at the wheel base side of QR. Pin must go fully through. You always can untighten these screws, then attach the pin, then rethighten a bit.

No the force feedback is not too strong. It’s a lot less than what the motor can provide (I tried F1 car driving in circles real fast and that’s very hard to turn lol).
QR is very tight fit, pin is completely mounted and when I want to remove my wheel I have to give it a very big tap to get it come loose as it’s sticking very well.

I meant that the base was insane loud vibrating and buzzing, basically the sound I had before but at a lot higher frequency. Don’t know really what was going on in Assetto Corsa it did the same thing with the settings you provided or once I can load online.

I already reached out to reseller, lets hope they can fix it. As I really like this wheelbase except for this knocking vibration.