Hi!
Contacted with my reseller about Wireless transmitter. He said it’s not possible to use module without programming tools which are sold only for wheel manufacturers. Is it true?
It is possible to use it, but it is not possible to change the default input pin configuration nor the default visible device name. The defaults are documented here, in the PDF file that is found on the page:
https://granitedevices.com/wiki/Simucube_wireless_wheel_system
Also we are not giving any supports for DIY people for this module, as the module was not designed for DIY purposes.
Hello there,
I am on the SC1 and have just ordered the wireless DIY modules.
I have a question on the new firmware release that supports the wireless boards.
I am getting some strange reactions with the X12 button inputs now.
I run the penguin RC encoder and button boxes that plug straight in and since updating the firmware i get strange ghosting( im not sure how to exactly describe it but i press one button and 1 or two other come up ) it is the same with the encoder.
I rolled back to the stable pre wireless firmware and the problem is gone.
Is there any chance of adding wireless support to the old firmware?
the new filters seem to be as bit “laggy” on my small mige
In short, the 0.50.x series is 0.11.2 with a few bug fixes and wireless support.
I do also have the Penguinrc encoder box, and it worked just as before with 0.50.3.
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Hi! I am interested in the Ascher Racing F28-SC Wireless Wheel for my SC1 (Simracingbay Small MiGe) and wonder where I can buy the chip that i install in the Simucube box (Europe).
Also Is there a required distance the from sender to reciever? Sim Racing Garage made a nice review on this rim but with SC2 where the sender & reciever is very close to each other and gives a good connection…
The connection should be even better in Simucube 1 as the receiver is not behind the motor itself.
The Simucube 1 receiver is available from many of our resellers, such as:
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Have anyone found a buttonbox or a SCWW with a circular rim and a 4 way directional joystick or pad?
I love the 7-way joystick of the F28-SC from Martin Ascher, but I would like an option more suitable for GT cars. However I have grown a bit dependent on the directional selector. In both Raceroom and Project cars you might need to adjust pit strategies in race, and for that up/down/right/left selector is invaluable, and it would be impossible to do on with the other button boxes I have seen offered.
Is it possible or will it be possible to connect clutch paddles like that of Ascher Racing?
Not for the current version of the wheel side module. We are currently considering the next version with advanced features, and clutch paddle support with bite point calbration will be included.
Tried the new wireless module in my DIY Wheel Rim, front and back plate 5mm Alu, 3D printed case. No problems so far, signal strength around 75%
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Greetings. Just installed a wireless module in my SC1. Running the Ascher SC28.
Unfortunately where my case is located, I am only getting ~20% signal strength. It works, but a couple missed shifts in my first outing.
I see Beano has an antenna on the wheel side board a few posts up. The antenna ‘chip’ for lack of a better word looks the same on both boards from the pictures in the wiki. Can an antenna be fitted on the SC1 module? If so, what am I looking for here? What is the connection? I see things like ipx, etc. but I have no idea.
THanks - Dan
What type of enclosure on your SC1 ?
It’s a stamped steel ‘mining case’, but has a number of openings for cooling. Looks like this… But it has a lot of ‘stuff’ in there for EMI/RFI.
Does things improve wrt signal-strength if you leave the top off? A general observation though, all that motion-rig controllers in there will certainly not help with attaining a good, solid BT signal.
Just a question as if you are using standard Ethernet Cables OR if you are using CAT7 wires with the Boxes… It is possible that there is some change in the 0.50.x firmware that has changed something with regard to the electrical interface (Mika might know thins more) that could be adding a bit more electrical noise to your Rig which could be creeping into the cable causing the ghosting.
A CAT7 or above ethernet cable should help this if it is as it provides full wire sheilding for the entire length of the cable…
Other than that possibility I do know what else may have changed that would cause an issue…
There has not been any changes to button input parsing, but I will have a look at this regardless.
Thank you, But I am thinking mores that it might be Electrical noise addition from possibly different Algorythims somewhere but then I don’t know what All has been changed in the last few months… I would suggest for @Darren_Maguire to try a CAT 7 cable on the box to be sure as it does make a difference in noise rejection…
Darren, If you wish please contact me direct at simulation@penguinrc.com and we will see about what can be done on our end here.
Following up - thanks for those that responded and reached out. Martin Ascher was monitoring and reached out too. He offered a solution to mount the receiver module outside the box with a 3D printed case. I printed that part and my connection jumped up to 60-70%. Seems good with an hour of running this evening.
Little case mounted to the side:
Tough to see but the little case is down in the corner to the left of the Rift:
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Can anyone confirm if a wireless rim, such as the Ascher ones, would show up as a device in JoyToKey, just as all my USB rims and button plates do?
Thanks.
They show as the same Simucube controller, i. e. only one game controller device visible on the PC.
JoyToKey works fine, I’m using a Simucube Wireless Wheel button as push to talk on OBS.
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