you are right, the noise is inacceptable. On raceroom it sounds like a sheep and on AC it sounds like Santa Claus.
I bought a DD, because everyone is talking about how smooth and quiet they are.
I also bought a stable P1 to finally have no more rattling and now it’s the DD that causes the noise.
I did the “washer” fix. Big issue was this wheel has threaded inserts because it is supposed to be mounted with nuts from the back. But I managed to loosen the bolts precisely as far as needed.
New issue: no spacer is delivered with additional wheelside QRs.
There is no way to fit the QR bolt because the shifters are in the way.
@EsxPul: Attila’s advice is what has to be done.
Edit: Ignore, I see you commented after. But anyway, I have drilled out the threads only HRS QR adapter plate - be aware though, Brett sells the Xero-play with both a threaded or non-threaded adapter, I guess you can tell him which you prefer…if any if you go that way…
Thanks for the tip regarding HRS, Phillip.
I’m going to try and live with this current arrangement as is until the new sqr design is finalised.
From a selfish point of view I’d rather have the adapter plate non threaded and be the more sacrificial part of the two which seems to be the way Tero is going with his proposed design.
Cheers Mate ;). Yep, your idea is in line with my thinking, easier to have a sacrificial plate…or better still to have a dual-purpose one similar to Tero’s proposal on the new design.
A neat solution to a minor hindrance. Well done Martin 
mate, I haven’t tried AC and RRE yet with SC2, but RRE always had issues with OSW, not a news tbh
I Drive a Lot RR3 bot i have not so Noises, maybe you have too much Damper or other things on.
I Drive only with 2%inertia and the first recon Filter.
If i don’t ask to much, can you post screenshots of your driver and ingame settings, so i can try them?
I think its raceroom or my pro is busted to lollllllllll …The motor make a worst sound then nicsos123 like really worst …i instantly exit the game to not damage the wheel … its probably something in the game cause its only in raceroom that i got a weird sound from the wheel
I had to cut the 6 x m5 (40 mm) bolts between the b16m-sc button plate even with the ascher adapter …(but the f28 look like a direct fit atleast …i was not so happy after the big amount i paid for both premium items 
(not gonna put washers on thing like this sorry …but Martin advertise me before buying ,so i was aware 
Loving the final result after fixing bolts ,like really love it :)))))))
This is late but a trick to this is before Grinding the threads place a nut on the bolt, After you going the end of the bolt when you take the nut off of the bolt it will reform the threads accurately helping to prevent mis-threading. It is also a good idea after grinding before removing the nut to slightly chamfer the end of the bolt this will again help reinsertion.
I’m about to order an ultimate and following this discussion here for a few days now. Is it really that bad? Ppl getting weird noises, staff responding within days, instead of hours? Are there happy owners of a simucube 2 and which simulators are they running using the simucube 2?
Ok a littel bit Noises but i think that is a normal E engine noises maybe
Depends always on your expectations. I am a happy owner of SC2 Pro. I had a Martin Ascher rim with adapter waiting so the bolt length isssue wasn’t a problem for me, and I would have sorted it if it was a problem.
I never had a DD wheel prior to this, so of course I am all smiles driving now, I came from a T500 wheel.
Raceroom is the main sim I play, and it had an issue in the beginning that was sorted quite quickly.
It does have a metallic «ting» sound when a rapid increase input in ffb happens, but I am not bothered with it as I play with headset and don’t notice it while playing.
For the software part, there are some early access kinks to smoothen out, but personally I was prepared that it wouldn’t be perfect. Yes they have had the original SC software, but still when you rewamp the program new kinks will appear that need to be sorted.
Yes you have to turn on your SC2 after the truedrive is running. You have to enable the High Torque mode everytime you turn it on. I turn the whole thing off between sessions, so I don’t experience the hangs described. There is a bug on the profile selector drop down in Truedrive, so sometimes you have to try several times or even drop out of your driving session to change profile.
Right know I can’t think of more, but propably forgot something.
Mika to try to get to the bottom of the problems of Nicsos today I did some more thorough tests, I noticed that if you disable the reconstruction filter actually the servo becomes noisy thing that on the SC1 did not happen, already setting it to 1/2 sparisocno.
What about the problem of USB and SC2 recognition when you think it will be fixed?
On RF2 I think there is some problem with the clutch effect, with the car stopped when the wheels are turned it does not feel fluid
I have one on order and am not worried in the least. Most of replies have been pretty quick or at least as quick as can be realistically expected. Mika and the rest of the GD staff seem to be right on top of any issues that have popped up and im sure are working very hard right now with the release. I don’t know if you have an OSW already but that’s also been my experience with that base.
