Excellent!!
https://www.simucu.be/post/upgraded-simucube-steering-wheel-adapters-are-here
We are now contacting all that indicated the interest, and verifying their shipping addresses so we can get a verified list for shipping. I’m not handling that, and I do not know how many there are on the list now, so might take a bit more time still.
ok thanks for the quick reply
Hi all🙂. Just got my wireless wheel and sc 2 pro. I tried @phillip.vanrensburg settings on Iracing and wow what a strenght and feedback. But I put pics and if someone tells me am I totally wrong with iracing setup and/or truedrive setup.
Same mercedes amg gt3 as Beano and in Sebring. I liked but it was kind of sport and sweat was coming and hands feels like you are in gym training😅. And that leeds to question is real racecars like gt class as heavy to turn in real life? I just want they to act like real life.
Edit: I didn’t put Beanos example values on that red circle area,what those freq. And q factor means?
We got some data from a GTE class racing car&driver. 50% in True Drive and around 90 Nm in iRacing was the realistic force level perceived by him, so its really low as the cars do have power steering. However, one must remember that the wheel is typically the only physical feedback that one gets in sim racing, so maximizing the details from that is essential. Having higher torque available as an overhead helps a lot, and overall higher torque gives a driver more consistancy via improved concentration and muscle control.
The torque notch filter is hard to tune right. Basically, it removes noise from the feedback signal on the frequency and the Q factor tells how accurate the filter is around that frequency. Higher Q factor, the more accurate the filter is. Basically. leave this filter off as all other filters have much more significant affect on the FFB feel.
image © http://www.martincwiner.com/audio-remastering-the-notch-filter-whine-tone-removal/
2 Likes
Thanks Mika, this sc2 pro is awesome, I’am truly enjoying it a lot:slightly_smiling_face:
. And guys who are coming from example thrustmaster,this is totally worth to wait:slightly_smiling_face:
1 Like
I’m coming from aT500rs and I can’t bloody wait!!!
5 Likes
Which wheel did you go with?
It might be a good idea to start a seperate thread about which wheels guys are using. Will help to keep things on track a bit better, I think, plus will be then easier for you to find.
1 Like
Any suggestion how to mount the e-stop on an aluminium rig? (80 or 160 mm profiles)
There are two holes which could be reached when i open the e-stop up but the holes are too smal for a m5 screw and i have to mount the the e-stop crooked because the holes are too far apart.
I used duct tape. Had similar problem, can’t find another solution.
I took my e-stop apart and drilled 2 holes that accepted M6 bolts, and bolted it to my pedal deck upright:
4 Likes
That must be annoying, especially since True Drive is kinda picky about it being either on or off in various situations.
I like the position for safety reasons, though.
Very true.
It’s in a great position to hit with my foot if I need to kill the power. Not so easy to release it again 
He might just have really long arms …
3 Likes
That’s not too far from the truth. I can actually reach down there to release it!
Luckily enough, I’ve not yet had any reason to use it in anger but I’m grateful its there just in case.
I bet I could reach down there too, 6’3 
Nice tidy rig you’ve got there 
1 Like
Do i have to clean the shaft from the grease like on batch 1 on a batch 2 base?
No, that manufacturing oversight was already remedied during the batch 1 build-up, and a very limited number of units with this issue was ever manufactured.
3 Likes