I created a new topic rather than to continue in the original Raceroom thread of simucube 1 and certainly felt that TD feedback thread was perhaps the wrong one to derail with game specific settings.
Note, that this thread begins with things from the time of the Simucube 2 device release, and much has changed since then. Consider taking a look at updated things in this thread:
FFB is subjective, and I certainly didn’t like much of the settings suggested in the raceroom thread for the Simucube.
It might be me not being used to DD wheel, but I certainly don’t appreciate a constant vibration of the wheel while in turns that I get when using recon 1-5 as some seem to want.
You can try to play with lateral force if you like, but it is felt very different between GT3 style cars and openwheelers.
The RCS also include clubsport V3 pedals, but you can edit that away if you like and reassign anything else you want to change.
Just remove the .txt from the files, and you are left with a .ini file to import 2 profiles into your TD software, 540 and 450 rotation version.
The .rcs file is to be placed in C:\Users\username\Documents\My Games\SimBin\RaceRoom Racing Experience\UserData\ControlSet folder, and then you can select it once in game.
For testing and tuning of the ffb, I find Bathurst a good track to do so. Slow turns, fast turns, turns over crest, downhill braking and a bumpy surface. You should feel the wheel get lighter in turns with a small crest.
Don’t forget to tune the cars specific ffb multiplier to taste before increasing/decreasing ffb intensity setting in ffb options.
A question for you or any others that may read this…
I’ve always used a G29 and have all of the in game FF settings adjusted for it.
Do I need to somehow get all of those back to default and then make all further future adjustments via True Drive?
Also, I remember there being a few YouTube videos with suggested edits that needed to be done in an .ini file to avoid breaking your wrists. I think it was the collision settings or something like that.
Does this type of editing still need to be done for the SC2?
the .RCS file include all settings, and I have disabled any kind of wrist breaking options in the RCS file like collisions. If you place this one in said folder, you should be able to select it, and if you want to go back to the settings you used to have, you simply go back and select the profile you used prior.
The RCS file include all ffb settings and changing in one profile won’t affect an unused one.
The collisions are all set to 0, and I don’t fancy engine vibration and gear shift effects much either.
I have also tinkered a bit with the curbs amplitude, pull and frequency
Just fired up my SC2 Pro for the first time and thought I’d try R3E.
I’m sure this can be tweaked to feel good but out of the box settings are really bad.
There’s a big notch around the centre and once I move the wheel left or right of centre, it seems to be assisting me and adding power in the direction I’m turning.
I don’t really understand the RCS or ini file thing so if someone has some screenshots of their TD and in-game settings, I’d really appreciate seeing them so I have a point to start from.
I know the problem is me not knowing how to adjust the sliders etc but my G29 feels more realistic than the default settings I’m trying.
Start at the first post on this thread. You will have to get the rcs file and the game to detect the controller. There is a huge clutch effect in Raceroom by default for new devices, which just does not feel good on DD wheels.
I guess raceroom isn’t the best game to start my adventure with. There are so many in game effects that I don’t think that helps a DD noob to work things out.
I’ve found a few things that were wrong in game such as inverted ffb being on as default which didn’t help.
Still doesn’t feel right but I can see the potential is there once I get my head around the in game settings.
On the plus side, I have to say that I’m not experiencing any strange noises and the servo is silky smooth. I’m very impressed.
I thought I would start with the game I play the most and try to stick with that until I can work it out, then move into the next game and do the same thing.
Much better than my attempt but I did have one unwanted effect. The wheel felt great when going in a straight line but as soon as I turned through a corner there was a constant vibration, no matter if I was driving fast or slow.
I found that it was caused by the “slip effect” setting in Raceroom. As soon as I lowered that setting down the wheel smoothed out through the turns.
I’ve only put around 2-3 hours into these settings and I think they can be improved upon by those with more experience but I thought I’d add them here as they might help some other new users.
I had 20 friends over yesterday for an annual Le Mans party and we spent the morning getting RaceRoom dialed in. I’ll share my settings tomorrow, but I couldn’t get the bump stops to work.
If the wheel spun, it would seemingly continue indefinitely and RaceRoom would keep track of the rotation, which meant you would have to unwind ~2000Âş of steering lock.
Sorry been away a bit this weekend and couldn’t reply earlier. Each to his own taste, and the effects are different on different cars. I have found myself turning the friction filter to 0 after posting my profile. However I don’t think my files are a horrible place to start and do things to you own taste. It definitely is a better starting point than default settings you get from the get go.
Agreed. My own attempt to start from default settings didn’t go well at all but trying again with your settings saved me a lot of time and frustration.
Thanks for the tip on the friction filter. I’ll give that a try.
