Project cars trouble shooting

As far as I know PCars 2 actually has a very good tyre model. I couldn’t say how the maths of it compare to AMS. I also don’t have problems sensing the limit of grip with my current belt driven wheel. High tone sorted that issue for me.

Never ceases to amaze me the diff opinions of FFB on a particular car in the same game by diff people. I’ve seen me racing and loving how a car feels and others say they dislike it.

I’m certainly expecting to dial in PCars 2 well for the OSW but I will also be going back and trying AMS with it to compare.

Direct Drive wheel

AMS= :grinning:

Pcars 2= :thinking: :roll_eyes: :disappointed_relieved:

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This is actually what I mentioned above. I have pretty much eliminated all oscillation by using very small values for deadzone removal/falloff. As far as I’m aware, Wheelcheck doesn’t work for OSW wheels. Pretty sure I saw some talk of that on the iR boards from the guy who made wheelcheck. Apparently it’s meant for lower power wheels.

These are the values I’m using in the JS file I selected.

#Deadzone Removal as pCARS 1 - deadzone/fall off
(output (tighten output 0.005 0.003))

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When I try to assign the wheel in P Cars 2 I am getting multiple inputs detected? What causes that I have no feedback from the wheel at all. Tried I Racing and I can configure but when i start the wheel just starts spinning wildly had to hit button. No bumpstops and no FF

I had the same issue with P2. I think it is a known issue on their forum. I believe its also to do with calibration issues. If you have simhub or vjoy, try switching those off and see if it helps

Steam. Settings - controller - general controller settings - Untick all controllers

Nothing in there ticked except guide button focuses steam

I got it working finally but definitely needs some tweaks very rough but got the wheel recognized and have some feedback finally in racing. Started unplugging usb"s after looking at my devices in DIView and could see several axes freaking out my V3 pedals for one unplugged them and plugged them back in and they zeroed out. Pulled my touch mouse out and plugged in a wired one just to calibrate with and this time it recognized everything. Restarted computer and went back in game all settings still there so hopefully problem solved on that game. Still having fits with I Racing and didn’t feel like dealing with that tonight.

I tried the .005,.003 and it really helped. thanks

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Jack Spade updated his set of files. Apparently better scrub effect on understeer. Will have to try those tonight.

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If you find a righteous one let us know please small Mige

Especially turning down the tone value makes the understeer scrub a lot better being felt.

7 posts were split to a new topic: Project Cars MMOS settings

I have reduced my friction to 0% and damping to 0.2%.
Its made the standing oscillation worse but the FFB feels quicker (i am able to respond to slips and slides faster) and as a result I am faster… 2c

As many before, I am trying to get the FFB in Project Cars 2 to my liking. But I am having some trouble that may be resolved with some more experienced knowledge.

Although it may be obvious, I find it important to feel:

  1. detail of the surface what I drive on, to know where my car, I want to feel the details of the different textures within the curb (like the edges, or a notch), the astrurf, the detail of cobblestones et cetera.
  2. Directness
  3. not have a rubber band feel.

I’ve tried the settings here, but none seem to give me the feel I find realistric. They all lead to a rubber band kind of feel, certainly when the recon filter is on. Here are my current settings:

I start of with the in-game settings.
I am finding most detail with the Jack Spade Tire DD SopDiff, and use it as suggested by jack spades Gain = 100, change the Vol/Tone settings per car, FX = 25. I havent changed the Deadzone Removal Range in the Jack spade file.

The best setting I seem to get with.
Power = 60%
Reconstruction Filter = off (the recon filter at 1 already gives me a rubberband-like feel, and also gives too much loss of detail to my taste.)
TBW on 2200 Hz

The noise filter/Attenuation of dB/q factor is all off.

Damping = 0.05
Friction = 1.0
Inertia = 0.4

I think it is really quite good. I get a very direct feel that I like but it needs some polishing and I cant get it fixed. The problem is: the the steering feels like there is “sand in the servo”, it feels very grainy. There is a high frequent noise in the signal.

I think the sandy/noisy frequency could be polished out. Any tips to do this?

  • Adding more general damping results in overall loss of detail, which is too costly for me.
  • Turning the FX down is a loss of information, which feels too important for now.

Maybe I can filter it out with the noise filter. But how do I determine the noisy frequency most easily? Just try?
Other things that I havent thought of?

Your live will be easier as soon as you get rid of the “weather simulator” and go to a proper sim.

Or just play it with a pad in front of the TV.

My two cents, after trying tons of combinatons during months.

Im done with PCars2.

Good luck!

The sandy feel is likely because of too high TBW. Either drop it to 670 (or whatever it is around there), or run Recon 1 with your high TBW.

my settings and i use jack ffb file named " tire low comp DD "
Been driving LMP900 for a while total bast to drive very happy with feel prefer rF2 but is is good fun :slight_smile:

I will try those Simon.

For me the main problem of PCars2 is that you can make a GT3 car feel right, and 10 mins later you take an old GT1 car and
You have a nightmare of ffb,

A good ffb could make me forget those not deep enough physics and errors.

SMS forget us, OSW players and make profiles with high compressed Signal that feels right only on low end comercial wheels.

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Have to agree. I’ve never got Pcars2 to feel ‘right’ with the OSW and the difference from car to car is immense. Coincidently, the one car I do think feels good is the Audi LMP900.