After Patch 4 and the latest simucube update I now have and oscillation in the pits and when standing still, a small fast oscillation about 1cm in each direction. I have tried lots of the attenuation fqz’s and recon filters but seem unable to reduce or get rid of it.
Big Midge ERN 480 Encoder
Thoughts?
I have noticed the same:thinking:
small midge
Sounds like it is coming from the software which means it will be hard to get rid of without affecting other feedback… The best method I can think of to try to get rid of this would be the Notch Filter Freq, Db, and Q, but it will be difficult to pinpoint the frequency at which it is oscillating.
I tried 30-40’combinations… there must be 1000 compilations… who can find it first ??
There are way more than 100 combinations… Your best method of finding it would be to run the program with the simuCUBE Configuration tool open But a fairly deep db level 10 or so and then start running through some frequencies noting the changes each one makes (NOTE the firmware only updates approx every 2 seconds so you will have to set, wait, set wait… This will allow you to see on the wheel when you hit around the frequency… you can then narrow the frequency out more when you get close you can reduce the db level and play with the q factor with to try to pinpoint it as tightly as possible// To get an idea of each of the adjustments other than what I said please read the user guide for the firmware.
097 same issue on the oscillation, still working the numbers to see if I can eliminate it.
Interestingly, I do NOT get the oscillation using RAW. Only with the JS files. If I had to guess, it’s related to Deadzone Removal. I’ll try reducing that to a very low value in the files and see what that does.
Yes it is JS files, I could not get a decent feeling for me using RAW. Will look at the .ini see what up thanks
Here are my settings which give me almost no oscillation. If you let go of the wheel it does oscillate, but you can’t really feel it while driving. Meaning the wheel does not fight back on straights etc… I’m using the Jack spade (ffb_custom_settings - stan lo comp DD.txt) custom file.
Yeah I am trying to eliminate the oscillation while standing still, I think that will take care of the oscillation when driving too. Interestingly how did you come to the 10Hz, -25dB and Q factor 3.6 numbers ?/
With the above settings I get no oscillation when standing still and almost nothing while driving. And quite honestly it’s trial and error. For whatever reason if you start going up or down of the values it starts to mess up. One other thing I noticed. Increasing the q factor bring in more detail, curbs etc…
Pete.
I tried your settings, for me, nope, worse oscillation, bigger motion lower frequency.
I am playing with the JS files and specific deadzones… will let you know what I find.
The q factor effect for me increases the "rubber band " effect, i prefer a direct linked feel so thanks for the settings, I will keep searching.
That is so weird. those setting make the game playable for me.
Let me know what you find, as I’m still not 100% happy…
Hi There,
I’m currently waiting for my first DD wheel to arrive - a Sim-plicity 20Nm OSW (it was dispatched on the very day Britain ground to a halt with snow so hasn’t got very far to me lol) and to pass the time was reading up on other OSW experience with Project Cars 2 (which is my clubs current main racing game) - which led me here!
There looks like some great advice to help get me going once my wheel arrives but in the meantime, in regards to the oscillation with Jack Spades custom files, I might have an idea you’ve not tried.
There is this setting in the custom JSpade files - near the bottom (these were default for the version I have of Jack Spades)
#Deadzone Removal as pCARS 1 - deadzone/fall off
(output (tighten output 0.02 0.01))
These 2 settings, if not done right for your specific wheel, are known to cause oscillations in PCars. I’ll take a guess that the default ones might not suit a DD wheel.
The first one is found by running the Wheelchecker tool from iRacing linear force test a few times then loading the results into the FCM tool to get your own wheels deadzone. (I can get you links to these if you don’t know of them).
The second setting is generally based on what your first one is and if it is too low it causes wild oscillations. 10% of the first one is a starting point.
TBH I’d not expect the default settings to cause oscillations but worth a look as they will if not right for your particular wheel.
Good to hear many have a good experience with OSW and Project Cars 2 though as I had that worry of how good will it work with PCars 2 which I’m really enjoying atm.
Cheers.
Pcars2 ffb on DD wheels is going to disappoint you.
the “RAW” flavour as they call it is neither raw nor good at all.
Jack Spade files compress the signal and add some kind of autocentering that doesnt work completly fine, is better, but not good enough.
that makes the game physics look bad , or uncomplete or not deep enough.
as wheater simulator is quite good.
Well I used to play AMS before PCars 2 which had some of the best FFB I’ve ever tried and I’ve got PCars 2 feeling damn close to feeling as good as AMS, so I’m sure I can work out a way 
BTW I tried the Jack Spades files with my current wheel (TM TS-PC Racer) and I still preferred the Immersive preset over them. High tone, low FX and it feels great.
Using a DD-drive has been known to completely alter opinions regarding game-FFB comparisons. They tend to expose flaws in the tire-model / handling more than most wheels do, imo but, YMMV.
will be great if you find some good settings.
share them with us!!
Yeah I’m aware DD can expose underlying FFB shortcomings just like playing a poor quality audio source on a high quality audio system exposes it.
I also seen what can be done to improve FFB from seemingly poor beginnings. Project Cars 1 FFB was generally regarded as poor to OK. I moved from it to AMS and it was a breathe of fresh air to see how good FFB could be.
Then a guy released a set of tweaked files for Project Cars 1 on Race Department that had used Jack spades as a starting point. I’d used Jack Spades and hey were OK but these totally transformed the FFB in it to comparable to AMS. (I’ve actually asked the guy if he’s working on a custom FFB set for Project Cars 2 - not heard back).
So I’m expecting tweaking to get it right for me and I’ll of course share here what I manage to do. Firstly I need to learn what half the settings you guys are going on about are 
- wheel here next week!
I like PC2 much more than I did PC1 but, it still doesn’t come close to providing the same satisfaction found in AMS for me. PC2 car-handling feels quite vague at times and I suspect it comes down to the tire-model more than the FFB; achieving a good sense of grip-loss in PC2 seems very elusive and inconsistent whereas, AMS provides it at almost every turn.
Driving “on the edge” of adhesion in AMS can provide excellent sense of balancing the car right at it’s limit. Some say that isn’t realistic or serves as a crutch but, I think RL driving offers so many more cues that we don’t have in Simulation and few titles do that as well as AMS does.
Still, the main thing is having the best FFB possible in whatever title we play and the SimuCUBE system is at or near the top of the list of hardware to have.
