Hi. I have an Ultimate, and I finally had to give up PC2. I had a horrible time with my SC2 setting up control assignments, and getting force feedbacak working in PC2, as you can see months ago in this thread. For some unidentifiable reason, my force feedback then started working for a couple months. Then, again as outlined earlier in this thread, I started having terrible crosstalk between pedals and SC2. See in my posts, all the things I tried, without success. I have little trouble in any other sim so far, such as AC ACC, etc.
Regarding your question, do you have FFB with your SC2 after startup up True Drive with your setting, prior to starting up PC2? I had similar problems with PC2. Also, BE SURE after you change TD setting to press the āSave to Simucubeā button, and after pressing it, you will need to way 20-30 sec. until it DIMs. The button will light up in orange a couple times VERY SLOWLY before dimming completely. Itās not done saving until the button dims. This is NOT sufficiently explained in the SC2 documentation. Thatās about all the help I can provide. Best of Luck.
hi guys,
for the last 2 days I submitted myself to a self-inflicted punishment aimed to find a good ffb for pcars2.
I made that for the love of the community so that none of you would need to go through all that.
so what I came up in the end is this : for TDpCARS2 2_2020.08.10_19.23.ini.txt (872 Bytes)
note : dor are 1080Ā° both ingame and TD, this seems to lead to a more lively wheel and at the same get rid of the jerkiness (when mapping and calibrating wheel inputs left/right, mind to press the e-stop)
ffb custom setting : ffb_custom_settings.txt (5.1 KB) (PURE FEEL - Custom FFB by Hugo Vai)
I just edited both āengineā values and set them to the minimum (I think 0.0001).
Ingame ffb (Custom) :
Gain 55
Volume - range 45/55 depending on the car
Tone 100 (itās the only way to feel what the car is actually doing, pretty important Iād say)
Effects 2
note : I discovered that before driving any car is highly recommended to load the Stable setup for race cars or the OEM setup for any road car, for whatever reason the auto-loaded setup is always the Loose one which is really terrible.
I last tested all that driving the McLaren GT1 at Donington, and for the 1st time I managed to run 5 consecutive laps without questioning what I was even doing with my life.
Mate i finally gave your settings (TD, ffb custom file and in game settings) a try and i think something must be wrong with my game. I get no road feel, no bumps and feeling of curbs, vagueness and low forces around the center, etc. I have calibrated the wheel, reassigned everything and all seem to be set ok. I honestly cannot believe that your proposed settings would feel like that, so something must be wrong from my end. Any ideas?
I have no idea, Iām still using those settings and all seems fine to me, or at least an improvement over the standard ffb. which cars have you tested?
edit : Iām not selling any truth here with those settings, Iām simply posting the ones that feels better for me since there was nothing about pcars2 on sc2, thatās the only reason why I decided to share all of that on the forum, and if I can help someone else thatās even better; also ffb is the most subjective thing in the worldā¦
anyway, Iām testing right now the latest update of Christiaan ffb, which contains a custom profile for dd wheels and so far Iām liking it a lot, might update my settings later.
TD : pCars2 - ChristiaanFFB_2020.08.30_22.22.ini.txt (883 Bytes)
note : dor are 1080Ā° both ingame and TD, this seems to lead to a more lively wheel and at the same get rid of the jerkiness (when mapping and calibrating wheel inputs left/right, mind to press the e-stop)
FFB Custom profile : ffb_custom_settings.txt (3.9 KB)
(Iām using the DD/with LSS/Jack Spade FX file, one of 4 files you find at the RD link above - I tried all 4 and this is by far the best)
Ingame FFB :
Gain 100
Volume - range 75/85 depending on the car
Tone 50
Effects 0 I suggest mapping Vol+/Vol- and Tone+/Tone- to some rotary encoders to have an easy way to set those parameters while driving.
note : I discovered that before driving any car is highly recommended to load the Stable setup for race cars or the OEM setup for any road car, for whatever reason the auto-loaded setup is always the Loose one which is really terrible.)
this particular FFB Custom file feels very good for most race cars but not so much for road cars imho, although I never found a way to make those cars feel at least drivable in pCars2 despite all files I tried so far.
Indeed there was something off with the FFB from PC2. I uninstalled and installed it again and everything worked just fine. Now, the Jack Spade DD/LSS profile is probably the best custom that i have ever used and honestly thanks for pointing that out!!! Your latest TD settings are fine and the whole experience in PC2 was a lot better and smoother than i remember. However i felt them a bit better (more in terms of counter-steering and controlling slides) by turning off Slew Rate and adding a 5% ULL. Also, a lower recon 2-3 could as well be used. Lastly i had to turn down the Volume to around 50 as with 75 the wheel wanted to brake my wrists (i think also that i turned down strength to 80% (20nm) in TD.
Overall though i have to say to you a big thanks for your posts as now PC2 is a totally different game!!
Fwiw, to the other Simucube 2 owners wanting more from PC2, I have just converted the āSilver Rawā custom ffb file to PC2 (was originally developed for AMS2).
It makes PC2 feel better than the original file makes AMS2 feel, which is pretty good, imo.
It really feels great on our wheel bases, more like a āreal simā.
I had given up on PC2, even tried the various custom files, so was happy to find that this was easy to do.
Custom ffb file is now here:
My in game settings are:
Gain: 25-55, depending on high df(25-35) or low df(40-55) car. This is on a pro, so adjust accordingly.
Volume: 0-10% for most race & formulas. (go towards maybe 20%-40% for a dead road car, with too little center feel).
I have trouble assigning SC2 Pro and HE sprints. When I chose Custom wheel all assignments including keyboard keys are cleared. I understand no wheel buttons are assigned in such case, but I think keyboard bindings?
SC2 and button box are recognized, but not always. Also my HE Sprints arenāt recognized at all.
Am I doing something wrong during calibration? Itās the first game I have such problems.
Be sure to assign all axis and buttons before attempting to calibrate wheel and pedals or adjust ffb settings.
Note that when assigning steering axis, it may not register until after reaching full-lock and during return to center.
In the event that these tips donāt solve your issues, try running the Steam game-file validation process.
If that doesnāt help, you can delete your AMS2 folder under āDocumentsā and start the setup process over again. Iāve seen quite a few cases where that solved controller issues.
Thanks,
I thought itās ok to first calibrate wheel and do all the assignments. Perhaps it just worked for my T300 but not custom wheel.
When it detected wheel it registered from the start , but after some try I felt resistance (not steering lock) and couldnāt turn wheel more than 60 degrees
I tried files validation in Steam yesterday and everything was ok.
You mean whole Project Cars 2 folder in Documents? I only added some custom FFB files. I will make a backup and delete the folder.
I deleted whole folder and it didnāt help. In edit assignments when I assign steer left of right the wheel is not detected nor Sprint pedals in calibration. But during wheel calibration itās detected but I have to chose predefined profile. Otherwise I get error that not all assignments are done.
Iāve seen cases where there was another USB device interfering with assignments. Iāve had that happen my self although, I donāt recall if my Fanatec shifter was in-gear or if it was a Firm-ware related issue that only affected certain titles.
Sometimes, it works to simplify the USB setup process by un-plugging all except the most relevant devices. One of my previous PCās was quite problematic regarding USB connections. I spent entire days chasing my tail only to find it was something quite simple. It could be related to a certain sequence or order of connection.
My understanding is High end is intended for use with DD-wheels but, it does not rule out another version working either. It depends on user preference.
Your latest TD settings are fine and the whole experience in PC2 was a lot better and smoother than i remember. However i felt them a bit better (more in terms of counter-steering and controlling slides) by turning off Slew Rate and adding a 5% ULL. Also, a lower recon 2-3 could as well be used. Lastly i had to turn down the Volume to around 50 as with 75 the wheel wanted to brake my wrists (i think also that i turned down strength to 80% (20nm) in TD.
