Hi mate, ok first of all my settings are based on Hugo Vai Custom FFB 3.1 SMOOTHER FEEL. I have tried Jack Spades and the other files but for me this one has the most responsive feeling and less granularity overall, but still with strong forces. Check on racedepartment for the files. One thing though, on the custom setting txt just reduce the engine vibrations at the minimum, check the txt file for instructions.
TD settings:
Use 900 degrees steering range, not 1080 (i was just testing something). Now please note that there will still be some white noise from the motor but it is normal. If you still have trouble with the resonance/granularity maybe play with the Attenuation dB (use a higher negative value perhaps). The reconstruction filter can also help with this but i have noticed that the more you increase it the more numb the wheel becomes so personally i would use this the last option. You might also fine tune a bit the damping and friction if you donât manage to sort things out with the in-game settings for some cars/tracks.
In-game settings:
If the granularity and noise is still high for your preference, you may dial down the Tone and FX depending again on the car/track combo. The Volume is the most important setting that can give very different feeling to the cars, you may use ±15. The Gain is important too but with less impact for me at least to the overall feeling, use ±10 from my base settings.
These setting are not perfect (i am not sure if such thing exists especially with PC2) but at least should give you a positive experience and a decent feeling.
Try them out and feel free to give me some feedback. All the best!
Correct Andrew and the Tone setting has the bigger impact on the characteristics (lighter around center but detailed vs. more dampened wheel response).
Also, itâs useful to assign those (Volume & Tone) to buttons, keys or dials for easy adjustment on the fly.
Yes I think I have seen this recommendation, but I do not think the custom FFB files were made for a 25nm DD wheel but more for a G29 or T300. If 100 is used for Gain i would suggest running a lower strength at TD, but then I canât say what will happen with clipping. For Volume I just feel it adds or removes friction and damping (heavy-light wheel). Tone is adding more surface detail but after a point it just adds more noise. Everything is also very dependent on the Flavor you use.
Interesting, I donât even remember if I ever tried Christiaans files with the SC2. Although I am more or less happy with the settings I posted earlier, for sure I ll give this a go. Definitely, I wouldnât start testing this with more than 30% strength in the TD. Also, as i said before volume and gain are extremely dependent on the flavor. 100 gain in one flavor could be ok, in another it could break your wrists.
IIRC, it was officially confirmed by the devâs, Gain should be at 100 for these steering systems. The recommended starting point for both Volume and Tone are 50; then adjust to preference from there with Volume serving as the primary strength adjustment.
The reason we sense ffb-character changes when adjusting the Volume is due to the interactive nature of the Volume+Tone settings. Changes to Tone will also affect Volume (ffb-strength). Striking a balance between those two settings is key to getting best results with each car, hence the reason these settings can be bound to keys/buttons/dials.
Some cars provide best results with those 2 settings somewhat altered but, usually not very far from those levels (50%) in my experience (generally within +/-10%, outliers may extend another 5-10%).
Regarding FX: itâs primary function is road bump detail but, the level is largely affected by the preset being used, as well as the track surface detail level.
I suggest trying custom ffb-profileâs from both Hugo and Christiaan. Both work very well imo, but each offers certain benefits over the other. Itâs just a matter of personal preference as to which one may be better for the user. As someone that has done a lot of experimentation with the ffb files for PC2, I can attest to the time required to develop and test the many parameters.
I donât know but I have never followed that. I set the Simucube at 100 and turn gain down same as I do for every other game.Im sure you can get similar results with a combination of in game gain and on wheel adjustment. A bunch of us with different DD wheels tried it and its about the same either way I just prefer turning down the in game gain. In the end out of 4 of us most preferred wheel at 100. I rarely touch the volume or tone for any car. Granted there are a few combinations that nothing is really going to make great. If im not mistaken im at 30/30/50/and I think 20 for fx. Works just fine for most cars.
One of the biggest issues with Pcars2 is the stability control. It causes weird really strong jerks in the wheel. The only way to actually turn it off is to manually do it. If I remember correctly it doesnât work correctly if try to use factory settings.
@morpwr@morOSWer, Guys the theory on the in-game settings is good but it is half the picture. I would be very interested to try your recommendations in an effort to find the best feel for this title, but I would appreciate though if you could spend some time to also share your TD settings, as these are equally or even more important. Perhaps you could indicate your proposed in-game (incl. the used flavor custom ffb file) and TD settings for a specific car/track combo to set the baseline. Since all of us know that there are significant differences in the feeling between cars and tracks in this game, one could easily discard some otherwise good settings by testing them with random cars and tracks.
Are you referring to the ECU traction control in the car setup? Indeed i get random spikes/jolts of FFB usually in high speed turns, but i never thought it could be from that. I have just tried to minimize these with good results through the settings i have posted a couple of days ago.
I can only say that my recommendations are based on information provided by the game developers, and some from Jack Spade (PC2 forum). As far as TD is concerned, Iâm using an SC1 but, I will say that most of my SC1 settings are very similar among all titles. I use the same Recon-filter, with some variation in the hardware Dampening setting per title. Both Friction and Inertia are at or near zero.
PC2 has a good deal more inconsistency in itâs content, hence the reason I feel utilizing the Volume & Tone setting easy-access is important. Of course, those that are not bothered by the inconsistent results need not follow that method but, itâs essential for me to enjoy what PC2 offers.
That method (Gain as force strength) should work fine so long as you donât feel a need to change the Tone setting, or for those that follow the chart-method for the per-car ffb settings (set in advance of sessions). I appreciate having the ability to change Volume and Tone on the fly for optimal results, depending on the car / track / weather conditions.
Itâs just so easy and as I said, changing one of those will often affect the other setting; increasing the Tone generally requires a reduction to Volume in order to have similar ffb strength (and vise versa). I get itâs not how FFB normally works but, itâs how SMS designed it to work in PC2. They initially defined Volume/Tone at 50/50 as being the starting baseline for most cars.
The PC2-ffb guru - Jack Spade, later provided charts with optimized Volume/Tone settings for each car. After using chart settings for short time, it became easy to âfeelâ the optimal result and adjust it in-game as needed. Perhaps over time, some cars were updated to normalize required settings for optimal results but, I find the 50/50 rule serves me well as a starting point with most cars.
Fair enough mate! Agree with you on the inconsistency of this title which practically renders it unplayable if you donât tune the settings for each car/track. Also for the ffb spikes, i am not familiar with SC1 settings but if there is something similar to the Slew Rate limit in TD, you may experiment with it. At least from what i can understand and feel, you should be able to filter/limit the strength of instant ffb forces such as these random spikes. I think this did the job for me, i still get these spikes but are less pronounced and more manageable.
I donât do anything special just the raw setting. Set the di effects to 100 and I donât normally use inertia,friction or dampening. My personal opinion is these are way over used and just adds to confusion. Especially dampening. I see many with high dampening and then of course high FX values because you killed it with the dampening.
Ive never used his stuff since PC1. We went round and round about his stuff back then. For some reason he thinks the wheel should get heavier when the back end comes around the front. The other thing is his stuff just adds a lot of fake road noise. I get why guys like it but its not for me. I just use the raw setting. The problem with volume is its not a volume. It even says exactly that in its description. Its more like an upside down bell curve. Lower volume increases chassis feel and raising it increases road feel. Its easy enough to test for yourself leave tone at 50 and just pick a car and go from a low volume to a high one. Problem is going lower then 30 gets weird too. You give up to much of the grip feel and it just doesnât feel good. To me tone should never get touched because anything off 50 throws off the balance of forces.But again these are just my opinions.
