Le Mans Ultimate

Thank you Cinek. I’m using 40% FFB Strength in-game for the GTE and the LMP2 cars. But this feels a little weak for the Hypercars. Just tried upping FFB Strength to 50% for the Hypercars and I thought that felt better - I just cannot drive the things! No finesse (as my wife keeps telling me).

I believe the Hyper-cars in LMU are known to have some suspension geometry issues to work out.
Last time I tried them, there was almost no steering resistance at all in some of them.

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Thank you for your words, I always try to do my best

unfortunately it’s not the same thing, also because I’ll have to make an additional video about it with different settings, because I discovered that if you set FFB to 100% in game there will be cases of clipping (see eurouge… and that’s not good )
The parameters that I have found to be the best to date are:
Torque capability 50
FFB game 65 (even if it’s not good on 2 GTEs it should be lowered)

On TD
25nm
0 static force

I believe that the concept of torque capability is a compressor/gamma curve of the signal, it does not work in a linear way, because if you think about it carefully if it were so it would be a second volume of FFB… and I think it is impossible and not logical

very clear and interesting, I am trying with a friend of mine to analyze the actual difference in torque between 5 and 50 and it is actually not visible from the graph. (I’m not at home and I haven’t played in days, there have been small updates and I would like to try again). However, it seems strange to me as a statement given that apart from an FFB volume in play there must be a filter that also allows less powerful bases to level the various forces…
I carefully looked at the graph you posted below and it is very interesting, I am also a fan of the FFB signal and I would like to discuss it with you in private too

TBH with the TD profile for rf2 shared by Devin and the Dan Suzuki settings for the LMU ffb menu also the HC looks great to me. Plenty of detail from the ffb, just you can raise a bit the car multiplier if you don’t like the lesser weight in the wheel. This weird thing that the cars are bugged honestly it’s just funny to me

Hi Would you mind sharing the TD profile? Thank you.

AFAIK only Iracing uses in-game FFB settings with a Nm value. Others, like AC are using a percentage.

The percentage is the amount of FFB signal strength available. That’s why 50 percent in-game, and TD 100 percent is not the same as 100 percent in-game with TD at 50.

In-game at 100 percent can deliver a FFB signal that exceeds the capability of the motor in certain conditions, or permanent. The result is clipping.

You can’t cause clipping with TD settings. But if you receive a signal as I described above, then you will have clipping, and this regardless of the amount of torque you have set in TD, will it be 0.1Nm all the way to 25 Nm.

That’s right, and it’s something that many people who use calculators get wrong. Years ago I saw videos made in which they said using 100% of the FFB… and showing that simulators are undriveable… but that’s not the case. Using a simulator 100% means setting it 1. without having clipping, 2. reach 99/100% of the signal in the worst situation

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The LMH cars feel much better to me with today’s update.

what about the others, for the moment I only play rf2 cause I have most of the content in rF2, and more content in rF2…

I only tried LMH yesterday, but the GTE cars and the Oreca felt good to me from the start.

With the same TD profile, the FFB in LMU feels softer compared to rF2, but it’s still a very similar driving experience.

Hi there. Which profile are you using?

This is my profile. Note that I’m using a Sport. I like steering to be on the heavier side. FFB gain in game is 42% right now. As always, YMMV.

yeah similar at 99% for me

Thank you. I will try the settings later today.

Can I ask why you have 720° not 900°?

No good reason. But I don’t think there’s any car in the game with a steering range close to 720, so it shouldn’t be a limiting factor.

900 should work just as well as long as the in-game settings match.

With the same TD profile, the FFB in LMU feels softer compared to rF2, but it’s still a very similar driving experience.

I need to qualify that statement. One thing that feels very different in LMU is braking. Locking up is not as easy as in rF2. You can apply much stronger pressure on the pedal before locking up. And flat spots don’t seem to cause as much vibration. That’s with the same pedals and same calibration in both sims.