iRacing and SimuCUBE

Simucube 1 Games
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There are two schools of thought on the how to set the Strength for wheel in iRacing… the problem is iRacing does things differently… The iRacing Slider does adjust the strength of the wheel but it does so by extending the range of the telemetry for the car by Moving the 100% point of the feedback… I am not sure how this works under the hood in regards to what Mika mentioned with Constant force in that it does possibly
alter FFB signal fidelity BUT on the flip side it Massively increases the CAR fidelity in Iracing (depending on the car).

Especially with you using the IR18 you probably want to set the iRacing Slider between 47 and 60 to allow the Car to have full fidelity of telemetry resulting in the full range of feedback. Then Adjust the SimuCUBE strength as needed to get the feel you want as far as strength… you can leave this the way it is for every car in iRacing and the cars will adjust to their relative strength based on their telemetry model (IE this is a set it and forget it type of thing. At this point though if you wanted to slightly increase output fidelity and intern strength you can then use the slider at lower settings to increase car feedback strength (just know the lower you go the more likely you are to clip the cars… I would not suggest going lower than about 35 in most cases as that is about the point that most of the GT cars clip… The Indy cars are much higher…

So basically my suggestions are as follows:

#1 - Increase your MMC in granity to the full 12.86A - Tomo short sets the MMC to 12 which reduces Max output to about 18.5Nm using 12.86A will give you the full 20. You can find a .drc to do this through the Motor, Encoder, and Centerpoint Wizard in the iRacing Hardware forums in the Firmware Settings and Information thread… http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3573261.page#10702255

#2 - Set your iRacing slider to about 55Nm then adjust the Simucube strength to meet want you want use. IF you hit 100% and still want more strength then start lowering the Nm in iRacing. Note this will lower the point at which clipping will occur.

As for settings in that same thread a little further down I have the settings that I used when I was testing the Small Mige posted I tend to use a bit higher strength than many but at the same time my setup of the wheel is a lot less lively which means you can run higher strength longer without being beat up as much with the spikes that come from running low to no filtering.

One thing of note though with the iRacing Indycars… the base Setup they use for Road racing the cars is built around lower output wheels. If you are in an open set-up situation you can do the one change that the Real drivers supposedly run with that completely revises the steering feel and that is to change the steering pinion from the 8 tooth to the 6 tooth. This ONE change will reduce the telemetry steering output by around 30% which will then actually allow you to reduce the Iracing slider further without clipping the car.

Overall though in regard to changing strength and which method is better it really depends on the came… Because of the detriments to iRacing and the Telemetry output Range with iRacing I am under the opinion that leaving the SimuCUBE as close to 100% as you can get with the Slider set to cover the range of the car you are using or greater (up to about 65Nm) is the best method… For other games this might be different BUT I also like setting and forgetting so I am not one to change strengths or profiles all the time either.

Also in that thread linked there are a BUNCH of other different set-ups you can try. one thing to remember though is that Filtering does change feel a bit when reducing power levels so a setting set like mine if you run it at a lower power (Higher Nm or lower SimuCUBE %) it more than likely will change feeling and become even less lively… In this case you may have to make some adjustments (lowering Damping, Friction, ect)…

BTW last note… with the IndyCars they will naturally oscillate due to the tight steering parameters of the car in iRacing and the inherent instability of FFB - so basically you need to keep at least one hand on the wheel to naturally dampen the movement.

EDIT… Just looked at the picture… If those are your settings then you have already upped the MMC and I would suggest NO inertia (small mige doesn’t need help in moving) and I was actually lower .75% on friction and a little higher on damping 2.25%

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Mika your explination is exactly how David Tucker explained it to me. He gave even more info, but it gets very technical.

Bottom line he said to get the most detail/ fidelity from iRacing the ffb bar must stay green between 20%-80 full on the bar.

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Yea David gets pretty technical in his explanations, I have talked extensively with him about how the whole system works and how everything works… I guess if you wanted the Maximum fidelity from the the car and output you would want to always adjust the car to fall in that 20-80% range but then alter the SimuCUBE for the actual Power set…

This can be done pretty easily by using the Auto Setting and then raise the Nm it chooses by about 5Nm and then adjust the SimuCUBE Strength to where you like it.

The Issue with that is that iRacings mechanism takes into account the relative differences in the power of the force from car to car via telemetry, so if you want to experience the relative differences between cars you need to leave the iRacing slider alone so that a car like the Miata will feel weak compared to a car like the Mercedes GT3. By using the previous method above you no longer have relativity between the cars so you can make every car have the same force feel at the wheel whether it be the Miata or the IndyCar.

In practice though even if you have the Slider at something like 55-60Nm if you watch the force meter MOST cars in iRacing will fall in that 20 - 80% range that David mentioned to you as being optimal… The Miata would probably be the exception… i.e. if you have a 60Nm range (60Nm set on the iRacing slider), Optimal 20 - 80% would then be 12Nm to 48Nm which is actually where I have found all cars to fall Except the Miata which will run at about 10Nm on average or the Indy Car which will run in the upper end of the spectrum depending upon the Set-up.

So personally I feel there is little to no difference in what you get at the wheel with either method (I have played with both methods and tried to feel differences and I just can’t) EXCEPT the big difference where if you have the iRacing NM set too low you WILL clip and that makes a huge difference in the feel through the wheel.

I would NOT suggest going higher than about 65Nm on the iRacing slider as you would waste constant force resolution for nothing since for the most part there is no car that produces usable telemetry over that point. If you want to stay within Davids optimal range for most cars you would probably want to be at about 40Nm… ( 8 - 32Nm optimal range) Personally I run at 47Nm, but I do get slight clipping with the Indycars. At 40Nm you will probably reasonable clipping with the Indycars and some clipping with some of the prototypes (LMP1, HPD, maybe the V8SC’s) and it could slightly clip with some of the harder turning GT cars… I have seen the 488GTE hit about 43Nm in sustained torque in some corners which would clip slightly as it went over 40Nm.

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Thanks Brion.
Yes, the DRC set my MMC to 12.86A

Another question, I have been noticing with my SinCOS encoder that there is ‘cogging’. It’s minor, but yet I feel it, and of course don’t like it.
I was looking into the cogging features in Granity and if I rotate my wheel very slowly there’s 18 'cog’s per 180 degrees or 36 per revolution, so according to the guide if I multiply 36x2/8(pole count) I get a result of 9.
The example in Granity shows a result of 3 and suggests the Sin(3x) or Cos(3x). Since I have a result 3 times the example I should choose Sin(9x) or Cos(9x) from the drop down - it doesn’t say to choose one over the other? Which is best?
Then is says to “set the drive in torque mode” - what is that?
And other than that I guess I just have to experiment with the TRA1 and TRA2 compensation to identify where the wheel feels less coggy?
Appreciate your insight here.

UPDATE:

So adding Sin (9x) creates MUCH more cogging, as does Cos (9x) so I guess there’s no gains to be had from this section?

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I have not messed with any of that at all… When are you feeling the cogging because I have never really been able to feel it but I also never paid attention while testing the Small Mige as when running the feel is much different than sitting at the desktop (do you have the Desktop spring effect enabled?). My normal servo is a Large Mige.

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it’s very minor, but I’m sensitive to it.
No desktop spring effect enabled.

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You can input negative values too.
We don’t believe it is worth the effort, as you generally do not notice the slight cogging when driving.

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Thanks Mika - I never tried negative numbers.
What are disadvantages of using this option if any?

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no disadvantages, only pronounced cogging if you input wrong settings.

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Any suggestions for those settings?
Sin or Cos?
How negative?
Amps?

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For Mige motors, not much is needed. Experiment on your own…

We have tested some Kollmorgen servos too, and while people think they are ultra smooth, they in fact have much, much more cogging than typical Mige. So this cogging is kind of taste issue…

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I’ve dialled the cogging out on my AKM54K with Sin(12x) at -0.14A. Almost buttery smooth now.

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thank you! i will try

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Here is an interesting one I have not encountered before, have been back in iracing a little more recently. When I start the room, I have no FFb, adjust the Simucube, no change, adjust the wheel options in iRacing, no change. Back out the room, and then re-enter, FFB is fine ?

Thoughts ?

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Do you have HTC Vive by any chance…?

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I reduced the cogging on my small Mige with Cos(9x) at 0.05A

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When I go in IRacing I have no FFB and no sound in my Odyssey, Then I disable FFB in the menu click done and then go back into the menu check FFB again to on and click done.
Nou I have Forcefeedback and sound into my headset.
Without the samsung Odyssey I have no problems with the FFB at all.
So it is a headset problem with USB with VR
So the question from Mika have you VR?
Is it a bug in IRacing ?

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Well you must be Psychic !!! Yes?

Will I win be lottery next month and find love??? :smile:

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http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3607026.page

See the release notes.

There is also another option, I think, in app.ini to always reset whole ffb system when entering the car. It should be easy to find.

I wish us all good luck with lottery & love.

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Hello
Where is this setting Cos(9x) at 0.05A ?
Thanks