Are you also lowering the Wheel Force in iRacing to match the decreased number in TD?
Also, how did you make out in the race? 
I didn’t change the wheel force in iracing because, as I mentioned in one of the previous replies this has no other use than for iracing to decide the max force when you use the ‘auto’ option. Which you don’t need anymore once you’ve set everything up manually 
The race went ok until I lost the rear and crashed hard into the wall in the final turn on lap 15/20 
But I liked the way how I could feel the grip changes in the front end of the car and that was exactly what I was missing with my older settings.
Sorry to hear about the crash but glad to hear that you’ve found the feel that you (and many of us) are looking for. Thanks again for all of your suggestions.
1 Like
as @Raimond said iRacing Max Force , TD actual Nm. The thing with the 100% is that it in a way is best but ONLY for these factors.
#1 - You want every detail from very car and DON’T want to have to be changing setting all the rime…
#2 - You either don’t care about setting hit with coach forces OR up run high enough power where you are below about 60-65Nm which is the Max Force Number that will cover most every car.
Wheel Force is a Safety Mechanism to keep from over driving the wheel specific output and really can be set to anything but if you have it too high auto will limit itself at that number so if you use auto to find out Nm for information ONLY it is best to have it under 10 regardless of the wheel. This is because if you have a Pro and Set it to 25 and then run auto on a Miata it will give 25 but in reality the Miata should give about 10 - 12 but because of the wheel force slider it keeps it high as at 25Nm Wheelforce / 25Nm / 25Nm Max force you are at a 1:1 specific output. (mainly because of the TD / Max Force ratio.
There is nothing wrong with running into the 100’s with Max Force to get the at the wheel strength down but it gets very hard to get an exact Specific Output when the numbers jump in levels of 20’s and more as they do when that high.
I think some people go way overboard with how many settings they do change as the Wheel is here to to recreate what is coming from iRacing. It is not there to change it for each car… If you have good filtering settings in your wheel, a strength level from the wheel that allows you to get enough amplitude in the signal recreation to feel the details, and set iRacing to give you all of the information. you have EVERYTHING you need…
With me I have a Large Mige SC1 which is capable of 27.9Nm, I run at a Specific Output of .594:1 to do this I HAVE to run at a 100% from the Simucube and can ONLY go as High as 47 on the Max Force slider… so in order to run the Specific output I do I will never get FULL telemetry from all the cars in iRacing and that is the compromise I make for the feel I want.
1 Like
Above I just made three Tiers of settings because as I mentioned in my reply to @Ottawaracer I think people go overboard with different settings for different cars and WAY overcomplicate things… By having three matching settings in Iracing and True drive then you have BOTH limited the Crash Forces and eased the amount of different profiles you need… In all reality if you can deal with some crash forces in the lower power cars you can eliminate the lowest setting group as well.
I will admit I do get really technical at times in the way I discuss thing because that is the most accurate and unfortunately the iRacing strength system is both Very complex but also Very accurate… Once you get the hang of it it is relatively easy to follow but until it “clicks” there is confusion which is why Most People just go to individual settings and Maximizing the force they feel from the car (adjusting everything) the issue with that is you essentially make all cars the same wheel strength wise which defeats Half of the goodness of realism that comes from iRacing (essentially making it feel more like Gain Based systems where all cars feel very similar to drive). It’s definitely a way to do it but rom me I would assume (and yes I know the anecdote) that you come to iRacing to get that more realistic feel.
In any case I have been attempting for years now to try to really find how to explain all this properly, and have asked David Tucker if he would like my input on revising the Way the force option work for set-up to make it easier to set the wheel up for people who don’t know. as there are a couple of things they can do that will make EVERYTHING work more smoothly but it will take adding some calculation code on the Back-end and slightly revising the sliders.
1 Like
You can and it will not affect anything IF your Max Force stays at or above the number on Wheel force… I.e. a Sport at 100% with a wheel force at 25 ONLY means that you or iRacing will not be able lower the Max Force below 25Nm.
It is best to set the Wheelforce to what the Wheelbase Output force it… ie a Sport @ 50% would be 8.5Nm so that is where Wheelforce should be. if it were at 100% then wheel force should be 17Nm
Thank you Raimond!! That was the best my wheel has ever felt. Actually I had to go to 40 on iRacing because 33 was a bit too heavy for me at turn in and I was clipping. 1:38 racing laps at Watkins Glen with your set-up. Thanks for the advice.
2 Likes
Thank you bsohn. Without your efforts I feel like Raimond and I would both be struggling today. Your efforts are much appreciated.
No problem you guys are welcome
2 Likes
I’m glad I could help out, although most credit goes to Brion for his countless efforts in trying to explain things to dummies like us
Also, please keep in mind that FFB feelings are very very subjective to personal preferences so don’t hesitate to fiddle around with the TD settings.
so what gets adjusted to make the kerbs feel like you are driving over them?
I am by no means an expert, but I’d start raising the slew rate limit (if you have one set) and lowering the inertia.
Kerb-feel is veey dependant on type of kerb, which car and how the car is setup.
If it feels to hard you can lower the slew rate limit.
By “too hard” do you mean too much kerb feel? I don’t feel anything of the kerbs.
Derek,
Best to post screenshots of your current settings.
Then someone might notice where you need changes?
Have fun,
Joe
Correct, too much force on kerb impact.
Which corner and which car are you running?
Try the F3 car at Imola; that’s a very forceful combination, you should definitely feel them.
Coming from Fanatec belt wheels (where I always had FEI turned way down), I am surprised at how many random bumps and vibrations there are just driving with no tyre slip. I am not convinced all the little tiny bumps and stuff that almost vibrate the wheel are what you would feel IRL.
I think my settings are sane (no clipping, 5-10% on D/F/I). I have already lowered the slew rate (on my SC2 Sport) and use recon filter 5, but I still feel it a lot, to the point where the random bumps and vibrations almost drown out running across a kerb – I hear the audio clip, BRRRRR, but the wheel feels the same since it was already being vibrated by all these little bumps and stuff.
Is this just how the iracing FFB works? Is it intentional or a symptom of 60 Hz? Is it realistic?
I can’t help but notice this either, but also happens in other sims. My solution has been reducing bandwidth limit and increasing recon filter. I think the only sims where I haven’t had to deal with this are RF2 and ACC. Elsewhere I’ve ended up running bandwidth limit 680Hz and recon between 5-8. A bump on the road should not rattle the wheel in such robotic manner that feels like G29 vibration effect.
It is a byproduct of how fast and direct DD’s are. There is a little effect with the 60Hz but probably not as much as people think… The main thing is the DD wheels react very quickly and many times too quickly… Slew Rate should help this, but friction can as well, Only issue with friction is that it will tend to dull everything as it is an overall weight rather than a dynamic weighting of the wheel. In real life alot of the little ticks and bumps are Muted by the steering linkages, bushings, and everything.
You can try running Recon 8 as there are alot who have found that a good deadening setting. You may also want to raise your Damping into the 30-40% range.
as @Raimond mentioned Kerb feel in iRacing has a significant amount to do with the track scan… Some curbs have rumble to them others you can just roll up onto, and others aren’t really even curbs and just painted… so it really depends on the track.