You also do not have to run a .45:1 specific output…
What I would do is turn your wheel up to 100% (not sure which version of the wheel you have but the higher force wheels would be well heavier).
Drive a car that you choose to drive fairly often. Probably would be best to be a medium level car like a 488GTE/GT3, mercedes GT3, something around there…
While Driving Adjust the Max Force so the forces through the wheel are what you would want to feel through the wheel. This will give you about what you like specific output wise by dividing the Number on your Max Force by the Output of the wheelbase…
So say you have the Pro @ 100% would be 25 Nm and you end up at about 70 for Max force… this would be .358:1
You can then extrapolate your settings based on the above 65/33/17Nm by multiplying 65 by .358 = 23.27Nm so for the 65Nm Max Force you should set your Force in Truedrive to be 23.27Nm… for the Mid cars at 33Nm Max it would be 33 by .358 = 11.814 and then the Low Power setting should be 6.086Nm or close to it in Truedrive power… This gives you three different levels to use at the SimuCUBE and then you can fine tune for cars within iRacing if you wish just remember that lowering the Max Force when fine tuning means that you would be lowering the Clipping point of iRacing.
Thank you for the very detailed response. I’m starting to understand and I will definitely try this tonight. Question. Is there somewhere that I can find the target Nm for cars in i Racing?
Also, to give you more specifics. I run a Simucube2 Pro and I almost always drive the F3, PM-18 or the Indy Car. Would you know if the F3 or PM-18 are considered Medium or High DF cars?
Sorry for all of the questions but I really appreciate your help.
There is no real list BUT you can get an idea of the telemetry output (without having to go into telemetry) by using the Auto setting as it will give you the Max Force level that is approx 98% (and approximately the full usable telemetry)… Just keep in mind that “auto” sets the 100% point for that car on that track, oct… ect… it is specialized btut similar… Whatever number above that the Auto falls below would be the category it is in. You would then want to set your max force Back to your normal setting where the car would fall to maintain your specific output.
I would probably say the F3 is a medium but mainly because it is very spiky in feedback and needs a little more headroom for that… as if you don’t let it be somewhat spiky you lose detail about what the front end is doing under braking. I haven’t looked at the telemetry on the PM18 yet so I am not sure where that may fall. The Indy is by far a heavy car… The F1 is actually more of a medium car as it has power steering.
Thank you for all of your great advice. I took your suggestion and adjusted the iRacing MAX FORCE while driving an F3 car at Watkins Glen. To do this I opened the black box to the FFB setting and adjusted it there while circulating. I started at 120Nm and tried to work myself down. While things feel better than when I started I still feel like it’s is not quite right and I suspect that I have missed something in your explanation.
My current settings in True Drive are:
Overall Strength 25Nm (100%)
High Torque mode engaged
Recon 5
Unlimited
D 0
F 0
I 0
Static force 0
My iRacing settings are:
Max Force 102
Wheel Force 25Nm
Using this configuration the wheel felt lighter than I would prefer while driving in a straight line and on turn in. There was also some oscillation, but it wasn’t terrible. That said, when I attempted to go to below 100Nm the wheel became heavy from turn in to apex and negatively impacted my ability to hold the line. Any thoughts? Did I miss something?
At this point because you mention that your strengths re actually a little light you probably will be lowering the Max Force number a little when you get other filters set up correctly. Your issues at the moment are not due to the strength but that you have no actual servo control set up through the D, F, and I settings.
I would try something like.
D - 32%
F - 0%
I - 5%
And then if you feel that the corners are too strong while the straights are a bit weak add about 10% Static Force Reduction.
If this dulls the feel too much then lower the Damping a bit more If there are more oscillations than wanted increase Inertia a bit more.
As for auto I think you have to click on the “auto” word for it to take effect and then it will change the max force… I am not sure if this can be done in car or you have to go back and do it in the wheel options only though.
@Ottawaracer I tried the suggestion from @bsohn as well for the F3. The auto setting with my Pro @25Nm gave 30Nm in the sim.
So I then set iracing to 33 and lowered TD to 12.8 to get my preferred ratio (0.38) and immediately I felt the difference. It’s in the details, but its definitely there!
The force meter in iracing gets into the yellow in the 2 long right-handers at Watkins Boot and stays green at the rest of the track so that’s perfect.
Thanks for dumbing your explanation down Brion; I’ve seen all your previous posts and they all where too technically complicated for me to be able to convert it into a proper setting but now I was finally able to do so
Thanks for your response. Just to make sure that there is no confusion (ON MY PART), when you said that you “set iRacing to 33” do you mean MAX FORCE or WHEEL FORCE? Also when you say that you lowered TD to 12.8 do you mean the Overall Strength?
Thanks again. I’m looking forward to feeling the details
Hi Raimond
Thanks for the additional information. Maybe I misunderstood but I was under the impression that the “best practice” was to leave the overall strength in TD at 100% and then tune the strength using the iRacing sliders. To anyone on the thread…did i misunderstand that?
That said, I’m interested to hear your results after your testing today.
Yeah, well basically the opinions are very much divided over that one.
I prefer to lower TD Force to prevent nasty suprises in crashes.
And if I understood @bsohn correctly, he basically says: in-sim you have 3 strength-settings to chose from, based on the type of car you’re running (DF high, mid or low). The personal strength you want to achieve is then set by adjusting the TD Force.
Hi guys,
I’m new to SC2 Pro and I’m carefully reading and learning throughout this thread (fantastic details and help!) … one thing I’m still confused is about the iRacing wheel force. I understand it’s just used for the auto calculation of Max force, but when doing this exercise of determining the max force, which Wheel force do you shall I set in iRacing and in TD? 25nm on both? Or… if I want to have TD limiting to 12nm, I would do set the iRacing wheel force to 12nm also?
Thanks in advance! Cheers
Set the Wheel force slider to the same force you have in TD Force.
Just remember, iracing only uses this setting to determine the Max Force when you click on “auto” when driving. If you manually set the Max force the wheel force setting has no use so it then doesn’t matter what you have it set on.
I’ve done a race in F3 tonight with these settings. After that, I tested several extremes in Damper, Inertia and Friction but nothing really felt better than what I already had. I only decreased the force in TD a bit as my arms were getting pretty tired halfway during the race
In TD:
Overall strength 11 Nm
Recon Filter: 8
Torque Bandwidth: Unlimited
D: 2
F: Off
I: 2
Static Force Reduction: Off
Slew Rate Limit: Off
Ultra low latency: 15%
Peaking/Notch filter: disabled