iRacing and Simucube 2

Simucube 2 Games
851

I really think that some of you are overcomplicating things.

Strength/Max Force
The ‘Auto’ feature of the Strength / Max Force setting is really useful. If you run a sighting lap, without hitting curbs, or anything else it will when you press ‘Auto’ it will set the range of forces generated in Sim under normal conditions. This may get tweaked by one or two upwards if you re-press the auto button after doing a clean lap at race speed, but not much more.

This range of forces is mapped to whatever range you set in Wheel Force. You cannot set the Max Force setting to lower than you have set Wheel Force to.

If you increase the Max Force number to higher than the suggested figure when you press ‘Auto’, then you reduce the sensitivity of the feel in the wheel to below what is possible, so you are limiting yourself. If Wheel Force is less than the suggested Max Force number.

If you lower the Max Force number to lower than the suggested figure when you press ‘Auto’, in a situation where the ‘Auto’ setting is higher than the Wheel Force setting you will find you get clipping. So why would you do that?

Therefore I see little benefit in NOT using the Auto feature in every situation, in iRacing.

Wheel Force
Setting Wheel Force to higher than you have set in the TD software is pointless. As I understand it, you are just setting a limit in TD. If you get a force generated by iRacing that is less than Wheel Force setting, but higher than you have set in the TD sofrware you will get clipping, but it won’t show in iRacing.

Setting Wheel Force in iRacing to less than that set in TD is not a problem, but it is possible that there may be a situation where some sort of signal spike causes more force sent to the wheel than you intend, however remote that may seem.

Cars such as the Global MX5, and the Indy Car don’t have power steering. So even if you can setting the Wheel Force and Max Force to more than Auto Max Force suggests for a particular track is not going to gain you much, except maybe an injury if you hit a barrier.

But what to set?

Ultimately it is down to personal preference. How strong are you? What wheel are you using? What car are you driving?

Are you trying to get as close to real life as you can, or are you just wanting to maximise the feedback through the wheel to be as fast as you can?

One thing to keep in mind is that we are racing in a Sim, not a real car. So in a Sim you generally only get feedback via your eyes, your ears and your hands. No seat of the pants feel, and that’s often what makes Sim racing difficult for real world race car drivers who don’t regularly use a Sim.

For someone who didn’t get to ‘play’ on a Sim until some years after learning to drive, I struggled at first using the Sim before FFB was enabled, and on a single screen. Now I use a triple screen setup, a proper rig, and high end wheel and pedals I’m looking to maximise the information I get through my hands.

Cornering is all about setting the car, loading it up through the apex, and max’ing the exit. You need to be able to feel the car achieve a set, then load the tyres by increasing the steering input further to make best use of available grip, You need to be able to feel when the front tyres are losing grip, and you need to be able to feel when the rears do the same.

What you set the Wheel Force to will be largely dependant on your personal preferance, but if you work out the maximum force you can comfortably cope with and set TD and Wheel Force to that, then for each car, and track using the Auto Max Force feature will provide you with the most feel through the wheel that you can manage, or iRacing can provide.

For instance, setting Wheel Force and TD to 18Nm when driving Class A cars on Ovals whilst heavy, is still not 1:1 in forces, but you are less likely to put too much steering in when cornering and therefore wear the Right Front more. Probably a bit high for comfort though.

Using those Wheel Force settings for the MX5 are probably a bit high, as for instance at Okayama Short in the MX5 you don’t really get more than 13Nm of Max Force.

GT cars generate higher cornering forces, but even the SC2 Ultimate max’s out at 32Nm. I suspect that very few if anyone could drive around a track at speed using that much force.

So for each car or type of car figure out what the maximum Wheel Force is that you can comfortably manage, and stick with that, and just use the Auto Max Force feature to provide as much feedback as is possible.

Using the additional features of the TD software to tweak things to your preference is just preference, but getting the biggest range of forces that you can comfortably cope with being played back through the wheel should give you the best chance of getting the most performance from your car.

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852
853

There is actually a pretty significant difference as MAX FORCE is the number at which iRacing Clips Telemetry So the lower you set it the less telemetry range iRacing send to the wheel and everything above the number Gets Clipped (i.e.)

if you set your Max Force to 20 Nm this is how a couple of cars would be effected:

Global Miata - produces around 15Nm of force at the wheel from Telemetry (Full Fidelity would be achieved)
Audi R8LMS - produces around 18Nm of force at the wheel from Telemetry (Full Fidelity would be achieved - with the occasional clipping form curbstrikes are very highly loaded cornering)
Ferrari 488GT3 - produces around 25Nm of force at the wheel from Telemetry (Clipping would occur to all information above the 20Nm MAX FORCE Setting, 100% output would be given)

Specific output is the at the wheel strength determined by the MAX FORCE range setting. This determines what you actually feel at the wheel relative the Telemetry and is determined by dividing your Wheelbases maximum output by the MAX FORCE number (or the point of 100% output. So the number is the actual % of reduction at the wheel you FEEL from telemetry. This is why you can have the same specific output regardless of what Wheelbase you have or power it can deliver (i.e.)

Wheelbase Max Output is 20Nm and MAXFORCE is at 40Nm = 0.5:1 Specific Output
Wheelbase Max Output is 10Nm and MAXFORCE is at 20Nm = 0.5:1 Specific Output
Wheelbase Max Output is 4Nm and MAXFORCE is at 8Nm = 0.5:1 Specific Output

Only difference in the above is the lower wheel will require that you have a lower clipping point in order to achieve the desired at the wheel strength.

854

Just some notes and corrections…

Increasing the MAX FORCE number doesn’t alter the signal being sent to the wheel at all (it actually increases the range of reproduction) so a decreased sensitivity is ONLY due to decreased Specific Output (or at the wheel force). If you happen to have turned down your Wheelbase in TrueDrive you can increase the Specific output back up to where it was prior to the change in Max FORCE.

The description of the reduction of max force is well wrong… as it has nothing to do with what you set the Wheel Force slider to. as MAX FORCE clips the ACTUAL car telemetry output as it has no real clue as to what wheel you are using.

The Benefit of the “auto” setting is that it is a much easier way to find out what the approx maximum telemetry is for a particular vehicle (as opposed to having to inspect ATLAS or MOTEC)… But after knowing that number you can either adjust to that number (Extreme force clipping) or just make sure that your MAX FORCE is above that number. either way the resultant fidelity will give you most everything the car has to offer with a setting reasonably above the “auto” generated number will give natural force rolloff as opposed to clipping)

Not exactly Pointless in reality as by setting the wheel force number higher (if you aren’t using the below) changes the scale of the MAX FORCE slider allowing better fine tuning of exactly where iRacing Clips.

Since Wheel Force has nothing to do with the actual force, this statement is incorrect. The only way to get those spikes you are talking about is to have the MAX FORCE clipping point well above the cars maximum telemetry (or auto setting) i.e. setting the MAX FORCE at 50 and driving the Miata.

Actually that would be exactly 1:1 with iRacing telemetry (granted this may not be exactly 1:1 with real life feel but it is a 1:1 Specific output.

Actually 1:1 with the Miata is quite nice to drive really but I still tend to sick at the .6:1 the point of specific output is that you know exactly where in relation to the cars telemetry you are… a Miata at 1:1 as you mention will not output more than 13Nm to the wheel unless other forces are at hand and in telemetry (such as a wreck or hard Curb Strike) even if you have a 32Nm SC2 Ultimate. you can set the SC2 Ultimate to 100% and 32Nm MAX FORCE or 40.6% (13Nm) and the MAX FORCE at 13Nm and have basically the exact same feel at the wheel.

If you set every car to it’s “auto” setting you are basically maximizing your 100% force which eliminates the relative strength differences in the cars. Which is fine if that is what you are going for. The situation though causes you to have Car By Car profiles in BOTH iRacing and TrueDrive.

The Most simple way to set one up while still maintaining car-car differences is the following:

  1. Take the strongest car you drive
  2. Drive it on the most demanding (be sure to run a couple curbs ect…)
  3. click “auto”
  4. Adjust the at the power % in TrueDrve to what you want to feel at the wheel with that car, If you hit 100% and still want more strength at the wheel then lower MAX FORCE until the Desired force is achieved,
  5. Run all cars with the same settings… You will get all of the relative strength differences in full fidelity + some headroom on all lower power cars. You will get clipping if you move up to a stronger car than the one that you set with.
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855

For all the Curiosity here is a link to a calculator that Scott Velez put together that visually explains all this better than words:

It does not make mention of the WheelForce Slider as that is ONLY a protection to keep “auto” or “you” from using a specific output beyond 1:1

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856

It really depends what you want out of the wheel.

Are you trying to create some sort of Super Simulator which feels through the wheel just like the real thing?

Me, I just wanted to get better feedback to improve my ability to control whatever car I’m driving in Sim. I’m not looking for realism from the wheel, I want better than that because I’m not getting any feedback from other sources.

And by the way. the Wheel Force setting in iRacing is of use. Just less so to users of DD wheels with control software.

1 Like
857

Wheel Force slider isn’t a protection from anything. It is important as it helps Max Force set appropriate levels based on the forces the Sim wants to put out.

It helps the Sim give you the best range of forces from driving normally felt holding the wheel when set to the same in TD for whatever Force Setting you chose.

Try this. Set Wheel Force and Max Force to 13Nm and take the MX5 out at Lime Rock, with TD set at 13Nm too.

Then set TD to 25Nm and try again. Then set TD to 1Nm and try again.

Reset TD back to 13Nm and say increase Max Force to 65Nm leaving Wheel Force set at 13Nm.

Then finally with the above settings in TD and Max Force, try with the Wheel Force at 1Nm, and again at 40Nm.(Actually, this one is best done in a car generating more than 40Nm of force say a GT or higher.

True, except one of those settings will get you a broken wrist if you hit anything.

Run a GT for example, then run the MX5. Chances are you cannot feel the track through the wheel in the MX5. Turn hard right at speed. You will barely feel anything which is not I suggest how it feels in a RW MX5.

I’m not suggesting that my view on how to setup FFB accurate to life, but I think it is the best way to set up an FFB wheel of any type (not just DD) to give you the most feedback through the wheel to best control the car. Whatever car you drive.

858

The only thing Wheel Force does is limit Max Force so that the auto function won’t set the output higher than 1:1. Only the Max Force setting affects ffb. If you don’t believe me, read the release notes.

859

While what you think the Wheel Force does is wrong what you have experienced is correct… Wheelforce LIMITS the low NM on the Max Force slider to KEEP you or "auto from creating a situation where the wheel is outputting more force than the telemetry of the vehicle indicates:

#1 So by Your example Wheel Force at 13Nm, Max Force at 13Nm, and TD is set at 13Nm. This indicates by way of the Max Force and the TD Output that the specific output is 1:1 as you are matching 100% output from the Wheelbase with 100% output from iRacing… So driving a Miata if the car says I am outputting 5Nm the wheel will do the same.

#2 Following your example: You then change TD to 25Nm with the Wheelforce Still at 13Nm and Max Force still at 13Nm. In this Scenario you are OVERDRIVING the Forces to a 1.923:1 Specific output or sending almost TWICE the force to the the wheel than the car is putting out. THIS is why the Wheel Force slider exists. When you Raise the TD force level you should also Raise the the Wheel Force to MATCH the TD force… By doing this you would have raised the MAX force to 25Nm and it would have remained at 1:1.

#3 Of course the Next step in your Scenario by Reducing TD to 1Nm then alters your Specific output in the Extreme OTHER direction making the specific output .077:1 or extremely weak and almost non existent.

Because you haven’t moved the MAX FORCE slider from 13Nm regardless of any of the other settings iRacing is clipping the telemetry output at 100% and since a Miata Generally doesn’t put out much more then 13Nm in telemetry you are basically getting full fidelity for that car. Going back over the above scenarios if the Miata puts out 8.5Nm in telemetry you would get at the wheel forces of the following #1 - 8.5Nm, #2 - 16.346Nm, #3 - 0.655Nm. This is all form THE SAME game output of 13Nm MAX FORCE.

#4. Your next change is Max Force at 65 and TD at 13 with Wheel Force at 13Nm. Because the MAX Force is a move wheel force it means that there is no limit in play. 65Nm is the new 100% point for iRacing and 13Nm is the TD output… This leads to a .2:1 Specific output. which means that that 8.5Nm force from the Miata as described above is going to be 1.7Nm. The main difference with this setting is that now you have extended the range of Telemetry that iRacing will send to the wheel AND in turn have reduced the Specific output…

the next two setting options with the 13Nm TD and 65NM Max Force will be will be the same as the above #4 and will not change at all by moving the Wheel Force to 1 or 40 because the MAX Force at 65 is above either of those numbers.

However if you change the force in TD to 25Nm w/MAX FORCE at 65 then you change the specific output to .385:1 which will increase your force at the wheel but again the Wheel Force slider will have no impact. (i.e. that Miata at 8.5Nm Telemetry is NOW outputting 3.27Nm @ the Wheel)

By Changing Cars to a Car that produces 40Nm of Torque from the wheel you would be obviously increasing the power output at the wheel because the car puts out more as the above 25Nm TD 65Nm MAX FORCE = .385:1 so while if that GT puts out the same Nm @ the wheel as the Miata when telemetry is at 8.5Nm the GT is most likely capable of putting out about 18Nm in that same car state as the miata meaning that with the GT the actual at the wheel output under the same conditions would be more like 6.93Nm and if you go to probably max cornering forces of the Miata (14ish Nm) and a GT (27ish Nm) then you would be looking at respective outputs at the wheel of 5.39Nm and 10.395Nm

That is a bit overdramatic because if unless you have a death grip on the wheel or bad settings the likely hood of actually getting more than an ache is infinitesimal.

However the issue at hand is also Yes and No as it really depends on the headroom from the car… If you are running a Miata maxing out at 14Nm in cornering then yes you have a lot of headroom between 14 and 65 but if you are say running an Indy car and get 40Nm cornering force that headroom is reduces significantly as the difference between 40 and 65 is far less which means the severity of force change goes down significantly.

While what you say can be true it really depends on how much specific output you are running… the higher the specific output the more details you will feel from the car BUT it also increases the maximum forces you will feel unless you clip the car…

The only reason I am going over this is because some of the things that you are thinking about how the system works are fundamentally flawed. That bing said, The way you set the system up by Setting the Car with “auto” and then adjusting TD for each individual car is absolutely fine to do but it is WAY more labor intensive than it needs to be to receive full fidelity from the cars and if you are looking for more real feel spreads from car to car it would not be the way to go as you are adjusting to the 100% power not to the power scale. As for full fidelity being sent to the wheel it is based entirely on the MAX FORCE slider setting and the Actual Car Telemetry output. IF the Max Force Number is at or above the Maximum usable telemetry from a certain car you will get full fidelity sent to the wheel… Now how strongly you send that information to the wheel depends on the Specific Output ratio. To little Specific Output and you can’t feel details too much and the power might be overwhelming to you.

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860

That is my whole point, and argument about what you seem to have suggested earlier in this thread.

It is my contention that looking for a more real feel is not the way to be going in this Sim, for a specific car, or when switching from car to car.

What you need to maximise your ability to control the car is the most feedback in terms of range of useable forces that you can get. That does not mean that turning the power up to 25Nm, or 32Nm in TD is the thing to do either, because that much force is not useable.

You define your own range of useable forces when you set the force in TD.

You don’t have to create a profile in TD for every car. I just create a number of profiles for each Nm of force in what for me is the useable range, which is between 9Nm and 16Nm.

The car, and the track being driven on determines quite what force to use. Twisty tracks probably need lower force for comfort, you can use higher force on an Oval because on the Ovals you are obviously not turning as many corners.

861

Yes the Feedback is very subjective and you as a driver can tune to whatever at the wheel feel you might want… The point is though that if you are aiming for maximum fidelity from the car you will be adjusting the everything for every car.

In Reality the wheel is just a communication device and by Theory should only have to be set once (across the board) and the game determines the force you feel at the wheel which is how it is in in real life you jump from car to car and there is NO limit to what you will feel through the wheel and the cars attributes change what you feel at the wheel and how much you feel through the wheel… Which is virtually the same as the set-it and forget it method,

The difficulty comes into play when you don’t want to feel that level of force from a car as you have pointed out that if you reduce the force so you can handle one of the Naturally strong cars there is a good chance that the forces that you will get when you move to a weaker car will be far less than what is needed to “Feel” the car. This has to do with Telemetry Range of the vehicle model as yes if you have the MAX Force clipping point at 65Nm and run the Miata you are essentially NOT using probably about 45Nm of range if you allow some room for unclipped curb strike rolloff. But if you of course are to run this car closer to 1:1 then you would feel all the detail from the car in the world as the Clipping point and range are reduced.

The thing is that regardless of the ultimate wheel power setting 16Nm or 32Nm, with iRacing your specific output is what determines what you feel at the wheel and that is the Ratio Between the MAX FORCE number and the actual output power of your wheelbase (after reductions).

From my experience in real life .6:1 is about the real world equivalent specific output… Cars like the Miata feel really close to a race prepped streetcar (which the Miata is). skippy feel around real life, Late Models, GT cars have weight to them and you actually get communication about what the car wants, not what you want the car to do. which happens in real life. Feedback I have gotten from several professional drivers as well do run around this specific output (but I have found that many do artificially clip the upper end of the iRacing Telemetry) which is sort of inherent in the way you do settings does as well.

There are other factors involved here as well and that is Your Actual filter settings as if you run very active settings for filtering you are liable to be beat to hell by your wheel at this sort of at the wheel strength but if you have the wheel set up to be less active and less immediate the results are more comfortable.

The point is that the way you set up the wheel is fine and it works for you but when explaining to others the inner workings of why it works the information does have to be correct or it becomes even more confusing to people… As well understanding exactly what you are doing when it comes to iRacing allows you to understand where compromises to feel, fidelity, or easy of use are happening.

It also allows you to be able to reduce Overhead without compromising your at the wheel feel. EXAMPLE - If you are running the Miata with your wheel at 25 and the MAX FORCE at 42 (.595:1) but you don’t like being hit hard in a wreck so you want to reduce the Clipping Point so you drop the MAX FORCE to 20 giving a little headroom but just doing that of course increases the power at the wheel to 1.25:1 (into overdrive status) as it increases the specific output but with knowing your specific output you can then readjust your TD power to 11.9Nm which returns the at the wheel feel to the SAME force (.595:1) that it was with the 25/42.

About the track feel comments I can tell you that in many cases higher strength on ovals is WAY more fatiguing than that of a road course and the reason is many of those tacks are bumpy and as well you are in force for way longer than most road courses. again though it all has to do with the settings at the wheel…

1 Like
862

Hello guys, I will receive the SC2 U next week, I’m driving mainly GTE’s, could you please advise me
what could be a good true drive settings for BMW GTE to start with? thanks in advance

863

I receive mine next week too, how exciting for the both of us!

864

I don’t wish to monopolise the thread, but for want of a better description you are thinking in 2D in a 3D world Brion.

I am sure you have wide real world experience of racing different cars. You have purchased an expensive precision tool, and you are using it like a hammer by not being willing to make changes between car/track combinations. Good luck with that.

865

LOL… ok I just have to laugh at that because it is FAR from a hammer and I can make the Car to Car settings far more Hammer like than what I am running. It is more about knowing HOW to do what you want the wheel to do without having to adjust it ALL the time which you shouldn’t have to do in a Sim as it should recreate what is given as it is given, with iRacing you have the opportunity to do both (and everything in between)… As I said I am NOT saying that your method of setting up is wrong I am just correcting the Technically Incorrect Aspects of your descriptions that could confuse people that ARE trying to set things up like you are.

For those reading with amusement the best way to set up the way WreckZ is setting up is:

#1 - Drive any car you want around any track (preferably a more demanding and bumpy track), try not to be completely smooth. This will help make sure you get a better overall reading that would not have to be changed if you move to a different track.
#2 - Click on Auto (get a Max Force Number)
#3 - Adjust the Overall Strength in True Drive to get the strength at the wheel that you like (whatever that might be)

NOTE: you really DO NOT need to worry about your Wheel Force setting with this as you are controlling your at the wheel strength by turning down TrueDrive. Wheel Force should be left at (1) to make this method most effective for cars with telemetry below your actual wheel force as you will be reducing the force in TrueDrive to levels you feel appropriate to that car so you don’t need that safety mechanism (unless you like really strong forces at the wheel).

With this method of setup you are forgoing realistic differences in car strength and choosing your own per car strength (variable Specific Output) all the settings are based off of the top usable telemetry of the car being driven.

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866

Mr Wrekz are you sure that feels better?
Have you tried the way Brion said to do it?

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867

For those in the debate about how to setup iRacing I found a Document that David Tucker from iRacing made a while back.

David Tucker iRacing setup instructions
First off, in an ideal world we would not need any of the FFB sliders in iRacing. We would just send the raw torque signal in Nm straight from the physics to the wheel and let the wheel itself handle it all. The wheel would still need a way to turn down the force levels, both to avoid saturating the output and for user comfort. We could treat that like a stereo with a volume knob and a clipping light. Most users would figure that out in a few minutes.

The world is not ideal so we have sliders. In particular the api we use to communicate with the wheel takes a unit-less value that ranges from -100% to +100%, but our physics works in Newton meters of torque. The fix there is the max force slider (click on the word strength to toggle the display to max force if you don’t see it already). That sets what torque value in physics will map to 100% when sending our signal on to the wheel.

You want to set this max force value to be at least as strong as your wheels output (17 Nm for SIMCUBE 2 Sport), and in addition you want it to be higher than the peak force the car will produce in ‘normal’ driving. You can find that peak force via telemetry, or by watching the F meter in sim for clipping, or you can use the auto button in sim to work out that force. Auto works by collecting data on your driving, and over time will work out to a reasonable level what the peak torque the car produces. Auto is the button that shows up in the F9 black box next to the FFB Force adjustment in sim, and also next to the Max Force slider in the options, and won’t show up unless you have put in a clean lap in the car.

Auto has a problem, it can work out the max force the car produces, but it does not know what the max force is that your wheel can produce. If you have a Logitech G27 it hardly matters, that can only produce 2.5 Nm of torque so all cars will produce more torque than that. On the other hand if you have a SIMCUBE 2 Ultimate set to max in the driver you can produce 32 Nm of torque at the rim. Pair that with a car that has a light steering and auto may only see 10 Nm of peak torque from the car. That causes a real problem, if we set 10 Nm from the sim equal to 100% force at the wheel, you will feel 32 Nm of torque when the car asked for 10 Nm giving you 3x the force of the real car, or a serious assault on your hands!

To correct this flaw we have the Wheel Force slider, that is where you tell us what your wheel produces so we can stop auto from setting Max Force below that value. If your wheel is set to 100% output you just set this slider to whatever the torque is on your wheel base. If it is set to less than 100% output you can do the math to work out the correct number (so a 32 Nm wheel set to 45% output is 32*0.45 or 14.4 Nm).

All that is a minimum that gives you the most fidelity at the rim without producing an unrealistically strong force. You can (and probably should) turn it down from there (set Max Force even higher) especially if you have a really strong wheel. You have two choices here, you can turn things down in the wheel firmware or in iRacing. My recommendation is to set the wheel firmware to the strongest force level you want to experience, and then tweak the feel in iRacing if that still feels to strong while driving. If you just turn things down in iRacing then in some extreme crash we may end up sending you a signal that still requests 100% wheel force and you don’t want any nasty surprises.

On top of that you should always use linear mode with a strong DD wheel. When we started iRacing there were no strong wheels and non linear allowed the humble G25 wheel to feel more alive. However it is like using bass boost on a $5,000 stereo in this case, basically a bad idea. The same goes for Damping and Min Force, those are there to fix issues with older wheels and should be left off.

In summary, set Wheel Force to your wheels max output (17Nm, 25 Nm, or 32 Nm for the various SIMCUBE 2 wheels), use Auto to set Max Force initially, then turn things down from there if it is too strong.

Part 2
I should point out that there is one other way to look at the force feedback settings, well really one and a half other ways.

You can just set Max Force to the torque of your wheel, then you get a 1:1 output between the physics and the wheel. This sounds great in theory but in practice it tends to be a harsh experience.

This is for a few reasons:

In a real car you are bouncing all over the place with 1 g cornering forces trying to rip your hands from the wheel so you don’t notice how harsh the steering is relative to the rest of the noise. At home in a comfy rig you only have the violence of the wheel to concentrate on.

Our physics (and all simulator physics) does not model some of the little details that could dampen out some of the higher frequency noise so the force levels may be right but the feel is still too dynamic (like a hiss in a speaker amp you can’t remove). Take your own car to the track and try to hold a turn with only one hand and you will find it is difficult, even if it is not very violent. That is because passenger cars are carefully tuned to smooth out the feel of the road in the steering wheel. Most race cars of course don’t bother with comfort.

We don’t always get it right. We don’t have steering column torque data for every car we develop, but when we do have it we of course use it. When we don’t have the data we have to rely only on suspension geometry and steering rack ratios to dial in the torque at the steering column. That gets us close, but there is always room for error. I can say that I have spent some time comparing steering torque curves from real cars to the sim and they are surprisingly accurate. If you recreate the lap with a similar setup at the same track you can almost match it up perfectly bump for bump.

So the ultimate way to make this work is to set Max Force to a multiple of your wheels strength and leave it alone. Assuming that max force is above a reasonable threshold (a minimum of 30-40 Nm) you will be able to drive most cars without clipping and you will have dialed back on the roughness of the raw signal. This has the added benefit of being consistent from car to car and track to track (and setup to setup) so you can feel the subtle differences between all the cars and tracks. You do loose some fidelity here, but to be honest 10 Nm of torque in your hands is a lot of torque, dialing things back is not going to cost you that much in feel.

In this case you can forget about the Wheel Force slider, although I would still just set it to the torque of your wheel to prevent you from accidentally over-driving the wheel. And of course still use linear mode and zero out the min force and damping sliders in iRacing as well.

In summary, dial the force in the wheel firmware to the max you want to ever feel in your hands and set Max Force to 40-80 Nm and forget about it.

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868

Best point in all that David’s text:

“If you just turn things down in iRacing then in some extreme crash we may end up sending you a signal that still requests 100% wheel force and you don’t want any nasty surprises.”

So whatever the MaxForce is, iR can send 100% signals, even at 120Nm you can ride a bad 3d pothole and Get full Torque, so at the end clipping point is your friend to find the sweet spot.

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869

LOL I am not sure how I missed that post but it is basically the exact thing that I say almost stated the same way… The funny thing though is that their methodology of strength actually is the same as a volume control in a high end stereo as it is based on an attenuation model (reduction from 100% output) rather than amplification of output.

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870

Yeah I remembered it when I saw it.

I was putting together a Dropbox folder for a guy who I just sold a large Mige setup.
I found David’s statement in a folder I had not sorted.
I can’t remember if he had posted this or if it was something I copy paste out of an email conversation with him.

So there you have it. Straight from the man who knows best at iRacing. :slight_smile: