Ensure both power supplies are connected
First, thanks for the detailed answer ! Its really helpful. Can you say im right understand what you advice.
I have SC2 Sport, and im trying find good FFB settings for all cars. For example, McLaren Gt3, feels good when i set 11.1nm in TrueDrive, and set auto FFB in iracing its 24nm. So im check wheel torque telemetry in motec, and find what average FFB for this car near 13-25nm, with peaks to 28-30nm. If i can translate right what you write, i need set ffb in iracing to auto its means 24, after it add plus 3-5nm ? Right ? And make same steps for each car ? Or sometimes i need change Truedrive ffb ? O_o 11.1nm in peaks are good for me, and comfotable to drive 3h+ in a row. Thanks for future answer.
So if you are checking Motec for telemetry Maximums you have the number that you should set the iRacing Max Force too… that being 30Nm if you are seeing normal running spikes to 30Nm. The Average only really tells you how spiky the spikes in feedback are.
If you notice auto set to 24 which means it was removing some of the top level spikes and allowing them to clip rather than be reproduced with the natural rolloff of the wheel. adding 3-5 Nm would almost get you to the 30 that it probably should be at minimally.
The answer is YES that you would do this for each car IF you want to have the same style feedback levels for every car you drive… i.e mitigating car strength differences…
If you want it as a set it and forget it sort of setting then you would instead say OK I like how this car that I drive most feels at 11.1 Nm and 24 in tracing… that is .463:1 so I want full telemetry I need the Max Force to be at 30Nm. so set 30Nm on Max Force and then multiply 30Nm by .463 which means you should have true drive set to 13.9Nm to feel the same at the wheel BUT get full telemetry.
Now when you switch cars and want to feel their differences… i.e. the Miata is much easier to steer than the McLaren, and the F488 is harder to turn than the McLaren then you would just want to make sure that the Max Force Number is Larger than the output telemetry and your specific output is the same…
So Example - You go to the Miata you don’t need to change anything the Miata doesn’t put out telemetry over 30Nm. But say you want to run the F488 that will need about 45Nm to get full telemetry recreation … so 45 x .463 = 20.835. Unfortunately the Sport will not achieve these levels so you would just need to run the wheel at 100% 17Nm and live with either clipping of the signal to get your strength at the wheel OR a Lower strength at the wheel of .3778:1…
My suggestion because you are running a high average at the wheel strength level is to just let the servo run at 100% True Drive, You may have to get used to some jolts when running curbs or crashing when using lower strength cars. You can set the iRacing Max Force to 36.7 (or as close as you can get) and you will have the specific output you want at as much telemetry iRacing can provide for you wheel without clipping. That will cover Most GT cars comfortably. (even the F488 should be decent but on the edge with that number. The M8 however might not be so good but because of the strength of that car you might want to turn it down even from your number… Which you would do so NOT in True Drive but by Raising the Nm in iRacing which lowers the Specific output.
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Except for cars without power steering (high downforce indycars and V8 Supercars), the iRacing FFB telemetry is just so wrong for most of the cars, that looking at the specific output Nm value is quite pointless.
We have data from factory GTE driver - the FFB level in corners is around 7-9 Nm depending on track, and the spikes in all current real life simulators such as iRacing and rFactor2 are very unrealistic. They do not simulate power steering effects and the values shown in telemetry are probably just an artifact that comes from their physics engine, with probably some magic values to get them in some sensible range (<100 Nm).
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Thanks alot, im test it now, well im more steadily and confidently go through high-speed turns, and I better feel the peak, which grows in slow corners. In my settings i feel more even ffb. But what im tested now much better, i feel more details. Thank you very much, really helped!
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The issue is that we have to deal with iRacing the way it is presented and to GET the full range of the telemetry so you have to set the MAX FORCE level at or above the range for the car (even if it is ultimately too high) THEN you can lower your specific output to what you as the driver feels is realistic or have been told is realistic via TrueDrive or the Configuration tool… It really as you said doesn’t matter what iRacing says is 1:1 if you don’t believe it but you have to know or be able to find out the numbers to get the full range of forces transmitted clearly to the wheel. Personally from my experience (not in the GT3 or GTE’s) i have found that about .6:1 is very realistic to arm fatigue levels I had in real life. so that is where I run at mainly.
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Im trying to figureout, how set good ffb for lmp1 cars on leman. I have peaks on kerbs near 55nm+ from telemetry iR, but i think i can avoid this details from kerbs, so im see peaks in corners near 30-35. As you reccomended earlyer im set Truedrive settings to max (17.1nm) and after it im concluded staying near 0.460*36=17nm. Works fine, but i think next test give me more info about it =)
That sounds about right if you want to avoid the curb strike hits… If the steering feels too heavy for you then at that point you would reduce the TueDrive % or you can increase the Max Force if you want a reduction in at the wheel force but with more telemetry recreation… with the numbers you have found it appears you are right at the running capacity of the SC2 Sport with .46:1 and the LMP1 (which does mean you are using everything you purchased 
)
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Can you post the settings you came up with to match the sim as close to the actual Cup Car as possible? Thanks!
Given I haven’t actually Driven a Cup Car I honestly would not know what is completely realistic there… With the iRacing Late Models the .6:1 power level feels about like the cars that I have driven as far as fatigue level…
I have a SC2 Pro that I have to hook up here to try out and once I can find the time to do so I will post the settings I come up with for it somewhere (not sure which there yet) … I am not expecting the actual feel tone much different than the SC1 but it could be, it’s a different Servo… but I am also curious as to if and how the added filters help or hinder feel depending on their settings.
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Can you please give advice what right solution in this case: Im as early we discuss set 0,460:1 (17.1nm in true drive and 38nm in iRacing). I have trouble, any bumps and kerbs are high stike my arms, im try find answer on this, read all threads on forum. Find somewhere Mika`s answer where he says to set low numbers true drive forces.
Few days after work im dive it to tests, where i want find right solution. So i find 2 path:
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Im dont touch ture drive force (17.1nm) and I set high values near this range in brackets: Damping (20+) Friction (15+) Inertia (10+) Slew rate (1.2-3.6), Torque bandwidth (1000-1500), ULLM (6-12).
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Im set low true drive force for example 14nm and set in iracing 32, use near 1-3% each filter, some of them im turn off.
The difference between them that I noticed: In 1st variant i can beat but not fully bump & kerb strikes. But i have strange feel, because im use alot filters, what little details are gone, and i cant feel it, if im lowering filters i have too sharp and strong wheel with high speed strikes, but i can again feel low details in corners.
If im use 2d variant, i have much lighter wheel, and feel all details, but i can handle it, and kerb strikes are not a problerm. Maybe I am mistaken, but i feel what iracing max force its some sort of scaling telemetry, i mean like a magnifying glass to enlarge telemetry.
Anyway, i have troubles with haveing in same time huge amount of details and avoiding high kerb strikes, without spoiling the speed and accuracy of feedback. So can you give some advices or tips for it ?
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Can you know the weight of your wheel? You can try that in Nm/MS (slew rate limit)
Edit:
About method B, leave iRacing at 32Nm and Raise up little by little TD overall force, you May find gold in there
Can you know the weight of your wheel? You can try that in Nm/MS (slew rate limit)
You mean weight of feel, i can find something simillar, but it works when i set slew rate near 0.8-1.2, and if i remember right, i lost alot details in corner, but also all troubles with kerbs gone too =) But i think slew rate not a magic cure in this case. Its good filter when use it not too much in my opinion.
I am more inclined to the idea, what set true drive near 10-14nm, and set a little filters are best way, to get alot details and can hold wheel strait, or in necessary angle when bumps\kerbs feedback strike you arms. Also im wounder how much faster with lap time, when i can hold wheel without hard shaking on kerbs, i mean if you can hold wheel strait, its give more accuracy and stability, understanding of movement the car.
Option 2 would be the way to go to minimize Kerb strike forces while retaining the details that you wish to have. as long as the car you are driving is not clipping while under normal driving circumstances.
MOST cars should be OK with 30Nm+ on the Max force… though some of the GT cars are +/- of that and there are some cars well above.
One Note to keep the Same .45:1 specific output as you currently have 17.1/38 (.45:1) you should set your iRacing max force to 31Nm with 14Nm in True Drive… (14/31 = .452:1)
Your wheel was lighter with the 14/32 setting as you were actually running at a Specific output of .438:1, not much different but a little lighter (about 4%) on the at the wheel forces.
The key is to get there filters set so there is a balance of control of the servo and the fine details you want to feel. Normally when you run more power you willl need a little more filter control but with that being said, if you try to control the extreme inputs such as the curb strikes and Wall hits you will be over filtering the wheel which is what you found by loss of details. Generally those items are relatively uncontrollable both in FFB and in real life as they are what they are… But if you don’t want to be bombarded by them you do have to turn down the Power.
You are correct in that Max Force is a Linear scaling of the telemetry… the Number set on the Max Force Slider represents the point in Telemetry which iRacing will output a 100% signal. If the car produces any telemetry above the level sent then it gets clipped to the limit and 100% output.
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Im testing Pcup, and find this settings good, but its not final, maybe its help you. Iracing max force 28.
Oh, you talk about nascar, well, my mistake =)
I made a bit of a guide for anyone struggling with the methods of controlling the strength of the force feedback and the pros and cons of each:
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Hi. I’ve been using my sc2 in iracing for about 6 months. The am having two issues I hope you can help
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just moved to a new league Ferrari GT3. I use the simple iracing config in true drive. With this car down the straights the wheel oscillates bad. What setting do I use to get rid of that?
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I like a lot if ffb. But in a race if someone slams into me the jerk of the wheel can really hurt. Is it possible to filter out crashes?
Thanks
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Make the configuration an advanced profile, and experiment with adding more damping and inertia. Also, ensure that the Ultra Low Latency Mode is somewhere around 15 for iRacing.
This depends on your iRacing FFB setting. For all GTE cars, setting the iRacing FFB Strength to around 30-35 Nm will give excellent force feedback, and will cut out the unrealistic crash forces.
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Mika can you please say what Ultra low letency give as filter ? I mean, i feel like its give more details and set friction and filter a little bit higher. So for 0-5% low latency, near 6-12% of other filters, if i set it to 15-20% i can lower other filter to 3-6%.
To be fair. They are very real crash forces. Real enough to hurt
Thanks I’ll try these settings. But most (ffb, ultra LL) are around what I’m currently using.