I’m racing the Audi RS3 LMS at the moment and have not quite got the settings right at the moment.
I like the strength quite high so you can feel what the wheels are doing, however to have it that high means the bumps in the road are very strong. Going in a straight line is quite hard to hold it still. Is there a way to turn down the bumps in the road but keep the turning strength high?
Clipping is your friend!
Raise iRacing forces near to clipping point (Red bar on curbs and bumps) then lower TD strength
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^^
Just like that above
Quick question about finding the sweet spot of max force, so its not clipping. What’s the point of finding that sweet spot and not just amping up the overal strenght in TD?
Uffff
For me is a feeling and car dependant. Some cars needs to clip forces more than others.
If you are focused on eliminate the Red Bar, you are doing it wrong. The red bar tells you when the suspension (rack or whatever iR is simulating) reached its full deflection, so you need to find the sweet spot where the Red Bar tells you what you want.
Some cars always clip forces at any point of the track, whatever the forces you put on iR, so here is when tryting to eliminate the Red Bar leads you to unbalance the forces between grip&bumps
Hmm, im using irffb tho, so its harder to find the sweet spot. I once saw someone using VRS telemetry which logged FFB. I tryed looking for it but I couldn’t find it.
I always thought clipping ( hitting the red bar ) is a no no
Pop culture I guess…
The truth is clipping is a no go when in a long banked turn if you maintain the Red Bar, but clipping is your friend when in Eau Rouge you are near Orange Bar and touching the kerbs spikes to Red Bar in a nice way
EDIT:
You are using iRFFb so you can try it very easy.
Make stints of 5 laps and look at iRFFb, % of clipping forces is telling you at the end of the stint.
Take 3 goals:
1- Adjust iRFFb forces to achieve 5% clipping at the end of the stint
2- Adjust iRFFb forces to achieve 2.5% clipping at the end of the stint
3- Adjust iRFFb forces to achieve 0.1-0% clipping at the end of the stint
Choose what you want!
If you dont feel anything in those test, aim at 10% clipping at the end of the stint
What do you mean with if you dont feel anything? I mean if I put 100% FFB in TD I will always feel the ffb ( being way to high ofc)
Right now I use 60% in TD 15nm and 47NM in irffb
In my example you are in search of clipping point by your feeling, not by the number shown.
You can race with 5% clipping signal at the end of the stint and you probably doesnt feel clipping at all. 5% of a 100s lap = 5s during a lap
This is not bad, from a 1m40s lap, you reach 100% forces during 5s only, may be during bumps, kerbs, weight transfers, etc… Some people can feel that 5% more than others so they tend to clip less than 2% of the iRFFb forces, others cant feel clipping under 10%… Its a matter of feeling
Sorry to jump in on the conversation, but what is your method of setting FFB for a car regarding finding clipping points in iRacing?
My method is the recomended by iRacing staff:
-Drive 2 or 3 clean laps
-F9 blackbox, look at FFb strength and click AUTO button (when available)
Thats the starting point for me, then is a matter of taste, some cars needs more clipping than others.
With a TD Overall Strength of 7Nm, im racing the M8 @30Nm in iR, with the RUF @28Nm in iR
Auto dont work if Nm is to high in the base though, above 12 or something? Cant remember.
I have never used auto 
Nor will I.
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AUTO button works in every scenario, but “wheel force” slider is the limit.
First, true drivers knows that 1:1 scale is unreal, so if “wheel force” is set to 25Nm (SC2 Pro Max force), you push AUTO buton and iR calculates that 30Nm is the correct way to feel the car (good balance between grip&bumps), then you are near that unreal 1:1 ffb relation.
Thats the normal case, so you have 2 options to aleviate that 1:1 ffb:
Less FFb at the base or at the game. The famous 2 methods to determinate ffb on iRacing.
Less ffb in the servo is what i do, so I maintain iRacing ffb calcs with iR @30Nm and I am lowering TD Overall Strength little by little (my ffb relation is 1:0.25 aprox.) Then modify iRacing “Wheel force” to match TD Overall strength.
Other way arround is maintain TD Overall Strength and go lowerin iR ffb. i dont like that way because you may end with too much cornering forces and bumps but no grip at all, that later you have to mask with filters like friction and damping, recon, etc…
About “Wheel force” slñider… I was very happy one year ago when that stupid slider did not exist.
If you race the MX5, and set Wheel force to 25Nm (SC2 Pro full strength) you will not be able to access what iR determines to be the optimal FFB for that car.
You cant use “Wheel force” slider ´with your servo 
If you push AUTO it will do nothing
Yes, that’s what I mean, it doesn’t serve any purpose for me, as I never see clipping in any car at 1:1
It’s truly great to have the dynamic overhead.
Hi all, for SC2 pro, what should be the setting for:
Bumpstop maximum strength
Bumpstop angle
Bumpstop damping effect
Centering strength
Does it made any different ?
Hi guys, for some reason, every time I spin or every time I hit a wall my SC2 pro turns off and then back on, is there a fix to this or something related in the true drive? thanks guys for the help!
-alex
Actually it doesn’t, It Initializes the function due to some experimental stuff David Tucker was working on (but never finished, If I remember it didn’t work how he intended), BUT it never actually uses the Direct Input Damping Function.
Few Comments…
Auto button - Sets the the Max Force to the strength level that the game sees for YOU driving around that track in that car in the manner that you did to set the auto so it places a baseline to get ALMOST full fidelity… It lops off the top 1 or 2% of telemetry for its determination so it can be just a tad low to acquire full fidelity… As well if on the lap after setting you go out and drive the car harder you could still clip… so the general recommendation is to add 3-5Nm to the number set by Auto so that you DONT have to reset things every time you go to a track.
So yes if you have the SC2 Pro at 25 and you get 30 on the slider you are close to 1:1 (.834:1 actual) However Iracing is ONLY setting for the point where you get very close to maximum fidelity… This means that any setting above this point (so 30Nm+) will give you full telemetry fidelity… just that iRacing will not clip telemetry that goes above that 30Nm. So in other words “auto” just tells you the minimum Max force number for that Car/Track/Driver combination.
1:1 is a weird thing with iRacing as while it has been shown to accurate to telemetry. in reality it does tend to feel overly strong, which personally I belive is NOT due to racing itself but just the nature of the way FFB works in that it is always trying to correct forces. Hence why a lot of Motor sport QR’s are not suitable for SimRacing because they get more wear than normal. Personally I find around .6:1 to be most realistic BUT there are some cases where that can feel weak and some cases where it feels strong… But some of it feeling strong is due to me being weak for the car.
As far as your explanation of what to do you are a little backwards I think on the explanation:
To reduce from being close to 1:1 you can do either of these two things -
#1 - Lower true drive strength Leaving your iRacing or irFFB Max Strength or “auto” setting where it is… This lowers the hits that you take from the wheel as you are lowering the max force it can put out so based on the 25/30 above… if you turn down TireDrive to 50% you have lowered your wheel output to 12.5Nm, Leaving the Max Force at 30 maintians full fidelity output from iRacing and reduces your at the wheel strength to a .417:1 specific output or 50% of its prior level.
#2 - Would be to leave your TureDrive Setting at 100% or 25Nm and then increase your Max force to 60Nm… By doing this you are allowing the servo to have all the headroom to reproduce and detail that happens above the iRacing “auto” setting. This however also means that if you crash and hit a wall you will get hit with 25Nm rather than 12.5 as you would with option #1. HOWEVER, this method effectively does the same thing as Option 1 in that by increasing the iRacing Telemetry output you effectively reduce strength so this is a 25/60 ratio which is also .417:1 Specific output… or the Same at the Wheel Strength as Option #1.
The Bigger benefit to option #2 is that you can set-it and forget it which is much as I or Beano does in why we say there is no need for AUTO. because 95% of the cars only have telemetry that will reach 65Nm setting to the example in option 2 with a 60Nm or above means you will NEVER have to really worry about clipping EVER and you can jump from car to car, Track to Track and just feel the Telemetry differences form the cars themelves which is one of the areas where iRacing shines as the cars are so different.
There is actually a option 1/2 which is variable… in that you can do anything in-between option # 1 or 2 in that you can say I want to reduce the forces I get hit with to 15Nm, but I like the at the wheel Strength I get with .417:1 so that would mean that I can figure that my MAX Force setting should be 36Nm by dividing 15Nm ( 60% in true drive ) by the specific output wanted.
On the wheel force slider note at the end there is no issue with that unless you liked overdriven forces as if you set the wheel force to 25 and TD at 100% then with the miata it would set at 25 or 1:1 since the miata only really ever puts out 15Nm… The issue is though that IF you change TD strength you NEED to also alter your Wheel Force for it to work properly so if you use TD at 50% (12.5Nm) then you will need to alter your Wheelforce slider to 12.5Nm (not 25) and then auto will set for about 15 which is still fairly high at .834:1 but it will then go lower than 1:1…
In the end though IF you understand when you are overdriving the telemetry you don’t even need to set the Wheel Force and could leave it at 1. But there is a nice side effect of using it when you are running higher Max Force in that it changes the fineness of the numbers you can make settings to on the Max Force Slider.
In any case I hope this clarifies a few things.
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