thanks for the suggestion, i never tried irFFB but i think i get your point.
once i have a bit more time i will try this tool to see if it improve it for me or not.
All good Mate. The iRacing open-wheelers usually need a bit more of the filters, I typically run D = 25, F = 20, I = 20. Recon Filter at 5.
I also change the pinion for the steering higher, with the IR18 Indycar for example, the default is 6, I select 7. Not sure the cars you’re running has a similar setting…please check that too…
Drove the Porsche 718 GT4 for the first time today and I get the feeling like the car is wallowing in a straight line, I’ve tried to dial it out without success. I remember seeing a post about others experiencing the same issue, but can’t find the post to see how they fixed this.
Its the car physics in that car that causes it. It improves a bit when the tires are warm, but it takes 5-6 laps.
@Tony: Yes, I can fully verify this behaviour.
Changing rear toe a fair bit helps too, so experiment with it.
Here’s the TD settings I use for all the cars I’m currently running, including the Porsche Cayman (others are GT3, Porsche 911 Cup, MX5, Skip).
In sim I use 32 Nm.
Only very slight oscillation and only when I let go of the wheel.
After having run the Cayman a lot I think most of the unwanted feel comes either from the car setup (I use VRS, which has no problem with the wobbly rear end feel) or the setting you use on TC/ABS because going too high there created a lot of understeer for me. I am now at setting 6 which for me is a great balance between tail-happiness and grip under acceleration and braking.
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That’s great guys, really appreciate the help 
This is great info! I am embarrassed to say I totally missed the iracing setting, and had it on 1nm :(. Truedrive was at 36% overall. This is my first wheel, so I thought it was good as is. Turned iracing to 30nm (I don’t have max force setting, is that now gone in iracing), overall TD to 60% and WOW! What a difference. Now, I’m going to try and figure out what D F and I mean in laymen’s terms.
I just ran a 5 race season with my track club, and somehow came in 9th overall with the wheel set to 80’s arcade mode 
hi everyone,
Question, I just tried the Audi R8 within iRacing and it had heaps of updates lately and now it just has zero detail etc… in it, Sebring was fine, summit point was okay and the recent update made it totally numb compared to the same setting for the MERC AMG gt3.
Really have no idea what has changed so much, just adding more power is not helping.
Did more people experience this?
Just went to test on Summit Point & I get that feeling too.
It’s like they completely blanked any finer FFB outputs it seems.
I’m running irFFB, at recon filter 1 & other filters very low too, so I would feel it if it was there & there’s just not much there anymore. That really sucks! I won’t be coming back to that car any time soon, crap. I thought iRacing FFB was doing better lately, but this is quite a blow.
It also feels completely different, physics wise, on throttle now; the “pendulum effect” is very pronounced all of a sudden. No idea if that is more or less realistic. I prefer whatever is more realistic, so somebody else will have to tell me if I like it or not 
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Happy to hear it’s not me, I even went to downgrade back to the old firmware etc… as I thought I maybe had that issue that some people have… also did not work. So it’s just the Audi R8 
Hi Mate,
I have tried it before, but typically, I can tune my ffb to give me the feel I want without any supporting 3rd party sw apps…thus I avoid it for the added latency, as I am quite sensitive to that.
It will be different though for others, so go for it, if you like it. I believe it is a pretty decent addition to the ffb experience.
Right, completely agree,
if a little added latency is a major issue for you, then irFFB is not the way to go.
@Brawli, you can use irFFB in different modes that will add extremely little or just a little more latency. Both provide improved FFB in my experience, since I don’t always like what the recon filter does, but that’s VERY subjective, of course, like the rest of it.
I normally go for the much higher FFB details from irFFB, where you get full 360hz information(called “360 hz”) & then I set the recon at 1.
The added sensation of the MANY additional details in the FFB, COMBINED with lesser use of recon leads to a double slam on the feeling of many cars, like the Porsche Cayman & F3, that otherwise tend to, in my opinion, exaggerate certain vibrations in the recon. First time I tried it on the F3 was quite a revelation.
Unf. NOTHING seems to help the Audi R8 as it is now. Any detail has sadly been removed, so don’t go and try that one, since nothing is going to improve that…
Oh, and it DOES suck to have one more tool to start up… So looking forward to higher iRacing FFB frequency in the future so I can abandon irFFB again. That is what will take this to yet another level.
But just try and judge for yourself, I do think you have to be an utter geek & sucker for FFB details to appreciate these details, so it’s def. not important to everybody.
Kledsen I agree, I have been switching between using irffb and vanilla ffb. It definitely adds substantial detail that makes it significantly easier for me to tell what the rear of the vehicle is doing. Without using it I have a hard time determining when the car is going over the edge. I really cant feel the latency it adds using 360hz direct mode.
A long time ago in this forum far, far away, there was talk of integrating what makes irFBB into Simucube, but it seems that no agreement was reached with the creator of irFBB, or integration was not possible, or has been forgotten. It would have been nice, but well, I’m really happy with how I feel my Simucube 2 with iRacing and without irFBB
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The Max Force Setting is the same as the strength setting only on a different scale, You just click on the word “strength” to change over… Setting Wheelforce alone from 1nm to 30nm doesn’t make a difference in the feel of the wheel but changing the strength or Max Force Does… IF you had your strength setting set Really high which I am guessing that you may have then when you changed to 30Nm on the Wheel force it would have lowered your Strength in racing but increasing the strength again in True Drive of course brought that wheel weight BACK however with a lot more detail as you will no longer be clipping as much due to a bad strength setting.
D and F are Damping and Friction, I is Inertia
Damping helps reduce spikiness associated with direction change by trying to limit the overshoot of the whell, Friction adds weight to the wheel across all signals, and Inertia Adds force to the rotation of the servo in the direction of the signal given to the wheel.
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It is all Tire model, The tires have become more compliant and realistic in their nature which intern dulls the steering feel. You can reduce your filtering to gain back some feel but for the most part the way the tires work builds feeling in them as you built temp and pressure.
One thing with this tire model is that you can increase your Specific output (ratio between the Telemetry and the Wheel) and gain some of the pertinent details back since the car is no longer as harsh to drive… Using low power level below about 10Nm will hide some fine details which some of the sliders in irFFB can boost again (or you can just run non-linear). the only way to really feel these things true to the output is too increase the power.
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Woah the car feels soooo much better with IRFFB haha
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Hey bsohn,
Do you happen to know if the more pronounced pendulum effect on throttle in the Audi R8 is more realistic as well?
I’m guessing so, since it’s a new development, but if anybody knows for sure…