Thank you so much for your knowledge David,
Lately I was playing with Torque clipping notification and never eliminated the beeps, these SC2s are very sensitive! Back to the search&avoid red bar classic method
The device torque clipping notifications are nothing to worry about if you only get that on the hardest kerb hits etc. However, the feature is very useful when you play a game where there does not exist a suitable on-screen indicator/method. And it is meant for initial tuning, and should be disabled when suitable FFB settings are found.
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I was trying to find the sweet spot in some cars “by ear” and focus on racing but always ended up with very high max force values and losing all the sensibility of ffb, whatever the force I put on TD.
At the end, best way for me is treat the beeps/redbar clipping as indicators of when the suspension has reached its peak, knock against the chassis lol
This!
We overthink settings too much sometimes…
Hello,
Thank you very much for all the information regarding how ffb system in iracing works, I always tell people to think that the max force is like a Dynamic processor for audio ( that expand or compress the telemetry in iracing context )… People always think that things have to be overcomplicated to work but it’s not always true.
In case you use an Sc2 ULTIMATE, can I share with you my ffb settings for Skip Barber 2k , Porsche cup, mp4/30 with some extra add on ?.
I’m curious to know what an iracing dev think.
Anyway I just use this replay to congrats with all iracing team.
Bye.
For about a week now I have been using irFFB, finding myself better than the default ffb. At the wheel I have the feeling of having more details.
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And the clipping meter is more useful (talking about iR) than a Red bar or beeps.
Raced last Daytona 24 with irffb and was nice, Hope Granite integrates something similar
Much thanks for this,
I tried this settings in the Mercedes AMG GT3 and only changed the linear settings too on,but this feels really good on my SC2 Sport.
This comes really close too how i think a car feels irl.
Thanks!
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I’m new to Iracing. Do you use irffb for Simucube2?
Try first without it, just Recon Filter to 5 or 6.
irFFB puts a delay to the signal and in my case i couldn’t even do it without recon at least at 1
irFFB is a software solution which attempts to do a similar things to the Simucube Truedrive filters which are an embedded hardware solution. Due to this truedrive is technically far Superior in flexibility and latency than irFFB.
People can subjectively feel and run what they want but those are the facts.
irFFB is still great and if i didnt have a simucube or wheel with advanced filtering i would be running irffb as i did for years with my CSW2.5.
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iRFFB works as intended with SC2s, its a great app since its capable to add New control bars to iRacing Basic FFB sliders, SOP and making changes on track are very helpful
anyone experience as soon as they hit hard in iracing and the wheel will go mis-alignment with the steering i can see in racing. This only happen in a specific car in my case Mx5. I have no any issue with porsche 911 cup and their setting is similiar.
Restart simucube2 too ( while iracing still on ) seems back to normal once i am back to iracing.
Anyone experience similar issue? what is the solution?
noob question, when i drive at high speed corners i feel slight oscillation on the wheel, how would i go to remove it or reducing it with the wheel settings?
below my current setting for the Dallara F3
Car setup?
But you could try to increase Inertia and friction perhaps to 15% , add a slight amount of Damping too, maybe an extra 5%. But first increase friction and inertia.
Also, as another test, you could add a bit more static force reduction, maybe 5%, as well as reduce low latency filter to 8%
Quite a lot you can do, it is just finding the combination you’re happy with.
Cheers,
Beano
I’ve read through several hundred posts. I’m more confused than ever. Can someone just tell me what starting values to use in Truedrive and iRacing for a GT4 at Road Atlanta? My head is spinning 
Is there a consensus on what the settings should be to simulate real driving vs faster lap times? I prefer real simulation, as I’m using this to improve my real life racing. Thanks!
You can select the baseline iRacing profile. That will get you going.
thanks, for the car i normally use the setup available in iRacing.
i will try following your advice for the wheel side.
Bullit (& achilles99 might find this useful too when head is not spinning any longer),
You can play with the settings as Beano suggests, which might take you to a feeling you like.
I tried for a long time & never achieved a “good enough” feeling for me on very specific cars, like the F3 and the GT4 Porsche Cayman.
The problem seems to be that the recon filter will maintain the extremes of the FFB input (I don’t have the algorithm at hand, so can’t be 100% sure).
These extremes are not good on these cars. I’m guessing they represent just a very small time window when they should be there, but unf. the recon only knows that they seem like they represent 1/60 secs & it strives to include them instead of smooth them out. This prob. feels great on 90% of normal wheel bases being belt-driven etc. as they benefit from this exaggeration I would imagine.
Based on everybody’s input I was under the impression that the recon filter should work well & there should be no need for the irFFB application when using a Simucube 2.
But I have found that using irFFB will exactly help to bring these peaks under control by using a different smoothing algorithm than recon.
Using irFFB helps big time both in the “360 hz” & the “360 hz direct” mode.
The lag is really extremely small for the “direct” version, but using the “360 hz” you get more fidelity from the game, as it reads out 360hz or so from the game instead of the 60hz. This makes it feel even better at the cost of slight added lag.
So for these 2 cars I normally will pick the “360 hz” & enjoy the much better fidelity & at the same time the artificially added big oscillations are brought under control.
But both modes will help on the oscillations, “360 hz” just a little more than “360 hz direct”.
In TrueDrive I then set the recon filter to “1 minimum”. The rest can be set as you prefer it.
I am assuming things here on the technical side, but this is exactly how it feels to me & I think more people would use irFFB on Simucube 2 for these cars if they tried it.
Looking forward to the day when iRacing supports a much high FFB frequency directly… Then I can use one tool less.
tried a little tonight:
started by adding 5% I and F alone at first but was not enough, so added 5% D and that was definitely better.
i reverted back and forth a few times and also tried adding Static force reduction and decreasing ULL but the latest did not much to my liking.
anyway i manged to improve it which is good, i will experiment a bit more.
thanks Beano