Just a short question relating Beneckes settings, he has no “Ultra Low Latency Mode”
What does the “Ultra Low Latency Mode” do? Anyone having any suggestions?
Further more “Center frequency Hz” which effect does it has on iracing?
Doe the “DirectInput Effects Fine Tuning” have an effect on iracing? because some mention it does not have any effect on iracing?
Which settings in iRacing?
THX
It seems that Max has not updated his firmware for a very, very long time if at all. I’ve send him instructions to update to a certain version first before moving on to the publicly released versions.
Regarding Firmware updates, is it supposed to tell you there is a new version when you launch TD or do you have to look yourself, if so where do you find them.
I have had my SC2 Pro for a couple of months now and haven’t updated any Firmware as yet, sorry I don’t have access to my wheel at the moment so can’t say what version I am currently using.
No automatic check ATM. Use the link in TD or link below.
Latest version here 1.0.13 (you can also see whats coming in new version 1.0.15).
https://granitedevices.com/wiki/Simucube_2_True_Drive_releases
That is One of the correct ways to set it up… there are actually a few… The Method that you show will allow you to get ALMOST complete fidelity out of the wheel as the Auto setting will still set the Max Force or strength to clip on 1-2% of the information provided. Setting the wheel this way ALSO makes every car within iRacing have the same upper strength level which is fine but it doesn’t give you one of the nice things that iRacing has to offer which is variable strength levels based on the car you are driving which is more true to reality…
To set the wheel this way you will need to find out what specific output you like most which is the ratio between what the Sim outputs in telemetry and the Wheel outputs to your hands… This is the REAL strength level of iRacing as everything revolves around this ratio. So say you have your SC2 Pro set to 25Nm 100%, If you set your iRacing Max Force Slider to 100Nm then you are at a .25:1 Specific output or 25% of Telemetry which equates to 25% overall force when compared to telemetry… You will receive all of the data from iRacing available up to 100Nm in Telemetry but at 25% of the telemetry level.
This is why just turning up the Strength in True drive Made the wheel REALLY HEAVY for you as the Max Force / Strength slider was not readjusted to the same specific output as before… So if you were running 11Nm in True Drive and increased the power in TD to 25 Nm that is a significant increase in force… If you had your Max Force in iRacing at say 30Nm then at 11Nm your specific output would be .367:1 or 36.7% power at the wheel but by just turning up TrueDrive to 25Nm that increases the Specific output to .833:1 or 83.3% power at the wheel… To actually raise the Power in the SC2 and retain your at the wheel feel you must match the iRacing Max force to your preferred Specific output… So Raising the strength in TD without Raising the Max Force number appropriately JUST increases strength and not headroom… With the numbers above you would actually want to use 68Nm on the Max Force with 25Nm in True Drive this will feel at the wheel virtually the same as the 30Nm Max, 11Nm. Difference is you can hop form car to car without changing anything and iRacing will give you the relative strength the car will actually put out… Downfall is that if you get in a wreck you WILL be hit with the full 25Nm of the wheel in a quick hit, (realistic Yea, Pleasant Not always) so there are ways to set in-between but this is actually the most realistic way to set for iRacing as it gives all the detail that iRacing puts out as well as gives you the relative differences when moving from car to car… Other benefit, you no longer need to really have different settings for different cars. you just hop on and drive.
guys, set TD at 100% then set wheel force at the same value and set iracing nm as you like.
not much else to say really. I’m reading all those posts with interest, but for me we are a bit overthinking here.
The problem comes When you dont want 17-25-32Nm spikes cutting a kerb or hitting a wall in MtPanorama
I do quite aggressive runs around Mt Panorama, reason why I set the way Supermonaco says, is for realism and immersion.
There is nothing that keeps you as honest, and immersed, as running Bogeyman at 38NM around that place, with GUI slider at 100% and iRacing slider at 38NM, then I have 1:1 torque.
Trust me when I say, it makes a much better driver out of you, when you have risk of getting some wake-up call if you hit the wall…
When last have you guys felt the impact of kerbs /sausages when you hit them at speed? I think it is pretty realistic what we feel in iRacing. Some are rather smooth and subdued, some can be very harsh, like I would expect.
I have been around Nurburgring irl, for example, it is very well simulated…I have also physically walked around Mt Panorama to study racing-lines, curbs, etc, I can easily relate real-life back to the sim now…especially the intricacies of the Dipper and navigating across Skyline…
Just my 2c
Cheers,
Beano
This is correct to what I said above… but the Mathematics are mainly for someone trying to get the headroom without changing the at the wheel feel. The Mathematics also allow you to more easily compare your set-up to someone else as you can really see that if they have a higher Specific output they are running much higher at the wheel forces (EVEN) if they are running a lower overall TD Force…
i.e running 11Nm TD with 22Nm on Max force is .5:1 but running 25Nm TD with 75Nm on Max Force is .334:1… even though the later allows more force from the wheel the former is actually MUCH heavier to drive.
EDIT, Knowing your Specific output will allow you to adjust to cut down the Harsh hits as well for those looking for a bit of headroom but not all headroom: i.e.
25Nm TD @ 75Nm Max Force = .334:1
20Nm TD @ 60Nm Max Force = .334:1
15Nm TD @ 45Nm Max Force = .334:1
10Nm TD @ 30Nm Max Force = .334:1
So any of the above will give basically the same at the wheel strength in iRacing but the hardest hit you will get form the wheel is reduced… But you do have to watch the Max force level because if it dips below the Maximum Usable Telemetry output for the car driven you will then get clipping.
How you can find Maximum Usable Telemetry for a car?
I guess one way would be, taking your 10Nm TD example, drive some normal laps and push the “auto” button, see if it goes above 30Nm Max Force. In that case your last example 10Nm TD @ 30Nm Max Force would be clipping, right?
Yep, as always, good points from you 
I tend to forget I always run high-torque servos, especially Bogeyman, so I am not worried about clipping whilst getting up to the 0.8+ spec output levels.
But personally, I prefer the realism during crashes, but I know it won’t be for everyone …it can get painful hanging onto your wheel when hitting the wall coming into the Dipper at the Mountain…blah
Yes, using “auto” is a good way to find out the approx Max force used by the car with your driving style but I would add about 5Nm to the number that comes up to alleviate the built in 1-2% clipping allowable for the “auto” setting. Note if you use “auto” without turning down your TD% you very well could find yourself with a VERY heavy wheel in some situations… Also note that if you have Wheel Strength set in iRacing “auto” will never drop below this level EVEN if the cars max is below the level (i.e. if you have Wheels Strength at 25 but run auto on the Miata which would really come up at around 15 it would be set to 25). The other method would be to look at steering torque traces from telemetry in ATLAS or MOTEC.
And yes you are correct on the if the “auto” raises the number from what you have set then you were definitely clipping. Each and every car in iRacing has different Maximum Usable output as well some cars such as open wheelers tend to be Spiky where others like the Porsche tend to be very smooth.
I am of much the same thought process with my personal setup but I rarely of course run over .6:1… The funny thing is the Drama in the wrecks actually diminishes with the higher strength as we run closer to the servo limits…
For those reading… for someone like Beano running a car that puts out say 30Nm in cornering and he is running .8:1 then in cornering he is getting approx 24Nm at the wheel, his servo MAXES at 32Nm so the crash hits he will experience are only 8Nm over nominal running strength… HOWEVER if you are running at say .3:1 on that same car you would be cornering with 9Nm of force BUT when you would wreck you would still be hit with 32Nm on his wheel (ultimate) so the difference from nominal is 23Nm or a Massive difference from normal to crash. So in essence running Lower Specific outputs CAN make crashes much more brutal.
Brion, thank you for the incredibly detailed responses.
I’m finally getting my head around how iRacing ffb works after reading and re reading your posts.
I only have 3 hours of play time in this title and so I’m finding myself meeting a crash barrier regularly.
I can brace myself and hold the wheel during impacts but I’m not so confident that my all plastic Fanatec rim likes it as much as I do. Another option is to let go but my USB cable wouldn’t appreciate it!
I think in my particular case, I need to determine the maximum force that my equipment can handle and set the forces to that criteria, which I think I can now do with more confidence using the information you provided.
Thanks again 
Brion and Beano have been a great help for me too. It took me a while to understand the basics of how FFB works, and while I still have PLENTY to learn, I’m really enjoying my SC2 
.
I’m using Beano’s settings with slight adjustments and Brion’s recommended .6 (60%) strength settings. I like a set once and forget setup a lot. But I still adjust the strength in some cars, even while driving.
I actually enjoy the FFB peaks a lot, it brings a lot of immersion imo. If you see a crash coming, you just let go of the wheel in time. But sometimes it really scares me when somebody wrecks me out of nowhere…
Anyways, it’s great to see this community growing and I hope that everyone keeps sharing their profiles/settings!
It still blows my mind at how high people like Beano run their motors. I have a Kollmorgen 54K (26Nm 'ish w/SC1), I run it at 50% and usually 50-60Nm on iRacing. So call it .25:1 - (6-7Nm).
In Formula 3 and other open wheelers this is plenty strong. I don’t think I have the stamina for anything more than a lap or two if I was running at 100%!!
Am I particularly weak or is this an open-wheeler effect where iRacing reports unrealistically high torques back. Haven’t tried any speedy road cars myself yet…
Same as you…i really don’t know how can they drive 
I think some people like to fight the car when driving and others lets the car Drive,
Im on the Last group of driver type
Little known fact, Beano was asked to be The Mountain’s stunt double in Game of Thrones 
The rigidity of your rig and ergonomics (driver seat position) are two important factors in my opinion. If you have a solid rig and if you’re able to use your big muscles, settings at 100% True Drive strength and ingame between ~42 and 65Nm shouldn’t be too strong in most cars. Although this is obviously a matter of personal preferance. And there are some cars with exceptional strong FFB 
. I turn down the strength in TD in those.