iracing doesnt use them, so why set them?
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No DirectInputEffects created by game
Other case when you dont want DIeffects or canned effects
Only useful for me on ETS/ATS or Zero speed damping on Assetto
Iracing produces DI damping and Friction if DamperMode is changed in app.ini
Really? Didn’t knew that, do you have a source for that?
Try reducing Static force reduction. I’ve set it to 15% and it felt much better to me.
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I can do a video showing how the white balls turns On in True Drive.
DAMPERMODE:0 newinternalfriction:0 (dont remember the line) and damper slider in game activates the DI damper effect and its white ball
DAMPERMODE:2 and ingame damper slider activates DI Friction effect
APP. INI FFB is a power full tool to achieve a Filter free SC2
The Wheel Force setting is just a safety Measure so that when set iRacings “auto” mode will not set a value LOWER that what your base is running as doing so will amplify feedback beyond a 1:1 Specific Output… Lowering this to match what TD says your Max Output NM is just allows iRacing to use lower values for “auto” if it sees them.
So if you lowered your wheel to 13.5Nm and then change the Wheel force to 13.5Nm then when you go out and let auto set the wheel for say the Miata it will probably come in setting Max Force at around 14-15Nm, HOWEVER, if you leave the Wheel Force at 25 with the Wheelbase at 13.5 then when you run Auto it will set Max Force at 25Nm as you set it to limit the Max Force 100% to the Wheel 100% of 25Nm
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"the auto ffb recommends the maximum torque without clipping. That value has nothing to do with the car just with the maximum what the base can handle.
Not useful in my opinion.
My dangerous half knowledge means when you lower in TD than also lower Max Force"
This is sort of wrong, Auto FFB sets the Maximum output telemetry of the Car being used with a minimal clipping of I think about 1-2% to get rid of spikes… This means that a car like the Miata will set Max Force to around 14-15Nm while a Ferrari 488GTE will probably be at around 35-37Nm. this number indicates the Power required to run the car at a 1:1 specific output with minimal clipping…
As you can see none of the wheels will really get to the GT3 levels at 1:1 so to get 1:1 on a car like that (if you want it) you would have to live with clipping details form the Telemetry output. However, most of us choose to run with Maximum fidelity and to use a specific output lower than 1:1… That value that it comes up with isn’t useless as it is a good base information point for the point at which you have to have the Max Force slider set at or above to get full telemetry information from the car being driven.
It will initialize the Direct Input channel but it has never used the channel for actual information according to David Tucker
Yesterday I also tried the settings from Max (tx for sharing @r0zina)
And I’ve the same feedback, a bit “flappy” or loose around the center.
I tested every setting for at least 10 laps before switching to the other setting.
Legends at Lanier : PB and finally a stable below 15s
Nascar K&N at USA International Speedway : Very nice! Stable on track!
Mazda MX-5 at Charlotte Roval : Not relaxed, reverted back to the settings from Beano.
Especially the NASCAR’s are easier to control and catch slides, but probably due to the loose feeling around the center the MX-5 is quite hard to control.
Lets see if I can find a setup for the Mazda around these settings.
That’s a great explanation. Thank you Brion 
You sure about that?
In my G29 time the value of Strength slider which came up when i drove two clean laps with any given car and checked “auto” was always around 10-13 (of course without linearity mode checked).
So my impression was that iracing measures the point where the wheel clips and set the strength accordingly to that point to get the most of these weaker gear- or belt driven whellbases.
the Strength Meter is different than the Max Force Meter, Though they are related to a degree the Strength Numbering is arbitrary and Max Force indicates exact telemetry numbers… 10-13 on strength if you click linear and get to the Max Force slider would give you the appropriate Nm…
The thing is Non-Linear mode is actually anti-clipping anyway as it compresses the FFB signal so that low amplitude FFB gets a boost so that it can be felt better and the Higher amplitude signals get attenuated so the they will never clip… This is why wen you run non-linear mode the FFB meter in iRacing only goes up to yellow.
iRacing has NO knowledge of what wheel you have or its capability so it is impossible for the program to adjust anything regarding your particular wheel on the fly.
Iracing has no way of knowing if your wheel is clipping or not… IR only knows that máxforce = X = 100% force in device
More info: if maxforce=16Nm and racecar send 18Nm, then you can see the redbar clipping above 16Nm,nothing about your wheel
Ok this is my take on how to set your wheel up for iRacing.
Set whatever you feel is appropriate in True Drive for Max force, filters etc etc
My personal view it that despite what a lot of other people are saying iRacings FFB system is pretty good if you set your wheel and iRacing up to match. My opinion, you don’t have to agree.
The following works for Simucube wheels, my previous ECCI wheel, and I’m pretty sure every other FFB wheel out there:-
In iRacing on the Drive tab of Options set Wheel Force to match what you have your wheel set up to generate as it’s max force output. I’ve got mine set to 11NM in True Drive so that’s what I set in iRacing.
Enter the sim, and drive for 30 seconds without hitting curbs or trackside objects and if you press F9 (Graphics) you will see at the bottom right ‘auto’ in yellow. Press that and it will set the range of forces generated by the sim to fit between ‘0’ and the Wheel Force you have set in Options.
You can also access the ‘auto’ function from the Drive tab of Options.
To the driver there is no difference in the result to how it feels if you use the Strength scale or Max Force. You can even switch between the two by just mouse clicking on the word ‘Strength’, and back by clicking on ‘Max Force’. Strength is just a number, the higher the number the stronger the forces felt. Max force is iRacing’s calculation of the range of forces that are then mapped to the range you have set in Wheel Force.
My wheel is set through True Drive to 11NM as previously mentioned. This means that I have Wheel Force in the Sim set to 11NM too.
Max Force ‘auto’ function varies from car to car, and I would suggest less so from track to track. In a GTE car I found that the Sim wanted to map 27NM to the wheel, in a NASCAR Stock Car or Truck it’s around 18NM. This reflects the difference in forces generated by cars with more or less aero
Note: iRacing have said that setting the Max Force number to a lower number than you have set in Wheel Force is pointless.
Now here, and again it is just a personal take on the situation, I think a lot of users are getting too hung up on numbers. Remember that more and more race cars use power steering, even F1. So for instance setting 25NM in True Drive, then Wheel Force in Sim to 25NM to drive a Stock Car with Max Force set to 25NM as well won’t help me be a better driver because I won’t be able to get around a turn, I’ll probably be in the wall. It would be true 1:1 force reproduction, but that does not take into consideration power steering or the size of your wheel, and would also create a lot of clipping.
Clipping is when the force that the Sim wants to feed back to you exceeds that which was ‘mapped’ to fit on the scale you set when you hit ‘auto’. That is why it is important to have set ‘auto’ by running clean laps and not hitting anything. That way you maximise the range and subtlety of forces fed back through the wheel under normal driving conditions. You really don’t want the full force of a collision fed back through the wheel as you may get hurt. Clipping under these circumstances prevents that. We don’t really want any broken thumbs or wrists, when what we actually want is better representation of the driving feel as felt through the steering wheel if we were in the real world driving the car.
It’s also true that older FFB wheels with less powerful motors were not able to provide subtlety of feedback in the same way as newer wheels. For instance my ECCI 700 wheel could produce a Max wheel force of about 2.5NM. Obviously trying to map a wide range of forces across such a small range of actual forces resulted in a loss of more subtle differences in feed back, but ensuring that I had that 2.5NM set properly in Wheel Force setting ensured that generally the cars I was driving actually felt like they were actual cars, not floating on the track even if I missed a lot of subtle effects.
So in closing, I would highly recommend that the least you should do is ensure that whatever you use as Max Force in True Drive is matched in the Wheel Force setting iRacing.
Also, using higher number Filters in True Drive will smooth out FFB feel. If you cannot feel a rumble strip on a kerb through the wheel when you go over it, then your settings could probably do with tweaking.
Note:- I actually tried the 25NM setting in True Drive, Wheel Force and Max Force a few minutes ago, just to see what it was like. All I can say is, that although I managed to get the Truck around Atlanta without hitting the wall, it was a massive workout for my arms. Five laps and I could feel the effect of the effort. I don’t think I could get through a whole race like that, I’d be shattered.
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Well am still using your settings. Maby 400+ laps later. I took my personal lap time prity quick. So i coulden’t change back 
What impresses me abut sc2 is the range of aceptebal FFB settings you can have on it.
I changed my true drive strength to 9 nm max on all my main sims now
I got inspired and tryed to replicate the ffb feeling inn rfactor 2. (Close enough 
) .
But i feel i learnd even more abut the ffb settings inn true drive. One thing is reading vage abstract ffb explenation’s and try to understand. But other thing is to just sitt down and try for houers and houers.
To rly get a feel.
But still alot to learn and i love it!
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Yup, that’s the amazing thing about the SC2, the breadth of feel the settings can provide. All I was interested in when I first got it was replicating the feel of my Bodnar, 6 months on I’m now quite far from those kind of settings!
And to think there’s more to come from it this year with Mika’s V2 Recon filter 
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Exciting will be intresting see where ill end up ffb wise
Simon, I just tried your settings in a Fixed Truck race at Atlanta.
I’m going to have to do a lot of testing of various settings to ‘feel’ how they change the response of the wheel.
Your suggested settings above were ok, except that I have not been to the gym in a while and 15NM is probably a bit full on, though I can possibly see me going up that way as my arms build up using this wheel.
Do you or anyone else know if the Damping and Friction effects in True Drive shown in percentages is a percentage of the maximum force set in that profile, or something else?
If so then might they need tweaking if a different Max Force was set in the profile?
Hey Jonathan, what size rim are you using? I’m using a 350mm one for Oval. Also whilst I set TD at 15nm, in game for the trucks I’m using around 30nm, can get way too tiring otherwise! Oval is way more of a workout than Road with sustained forces in long banked bends.