I have honestly not tried messing with those too much on their own but from what I understand from David Tucker those values don’t do anything if the damping slider or in the OLDER iRacing revisions the Dampen Oscillations is checked… Current revisions of iRacing the app.ini has been altered by iRacing to follow most of wha we do with the DD wheels an as well the Dampen Oscillations checkbox has been changed to ONLY use reduced force when checked and not apply any sort of damping effect.
but anyway that app.ini is what I have been using for a long time.
@Boska Regarding the app.ini those settings are independent of wheel type so they will do virtually the same thing for an SC1 and an SC2 as they are technically all in game settings.
I am testing DamperSaturation at 0 and 10000 - both extremes -
With 10000 is like a smooth ride over bumps and kerbs but i lose the car under braking before touching the apex (on fast corners), too slow weight transfer i supose…
Then with DamperSat at 0 everything changes! not a smooth ride but weight transfer under braking is more predictable. Fiddling with TD dampening is a must for me every time I change any app.ini option… so I was in search of a good app.ini baseline
Would anybody here recommend irffb to optimize iRacing 60Hz FFB in conjunction with the SC2 Pro or should i use just iRacing FFB as it is offrede by the sim itself?
Personally, even on my old Simucube 1, I found no reason to use iRFFB, as in my case, it added to much latency.
Some people do like it though, so you can if course test it. In my humble opinion though, a properly tuned SC2 setup makes it redundant…but again, just my simple POV…
Have a strange issue with the Auto FFB in iracing… (SC1)
David below writes that Wheel Force sets your max Nm wheel produce, in my case Small Mige 20Nm so thats what i put there. He also says the red underlined part…which does not work in my case
When i have 60% Overall Strength in SC software the AUTO FFB seems to work fine in the game, gives me around 35-ish Nm (Cars: DP and GTE), but if I put 100% Overall strength and click AUTO its way to powerful and clipping like mad (ofcourse), still gives me 35-ish but WAY to strong to drive. If i adjust manually to 55-60 its gets and feels good without clipping, but as soon as i click AUTO it forces it back to 35.
So why does not AUTO FFB works (for me) when Overall Strenght is set to 100%? Should work no matter if its 50, 75 or 100% no? Or am I missing something here?
PS: is this Wheel Force value stored somehere in the app.ini file? Cant find it.
Interesting… it is very different to what Beano posted. In other words, he said some filters that you uses are not necessary.
Did you prove the beano’s settings?
I haven’t tried Beano’s settings he showed for the Pro in his most recent videos. I plan to do so soon.
However I did try the settings he mentioned in one of his first videos, when using the Ultimate with the pre-release Truedrive software. I found that to be very sluggish, slow, as if you are steering under water. Not at all to my liking.
As is mentioned before by many people, including Beano; there is no single setting that is the truth. It’s all about personal preference. I have real-life race experience (touring cars) and I’m trying to simulate that feel with the SC2. With my settings, I come close to that.
Just try different settings and find what best suits you as a base. Then tweak that to make it how you want it to feel.
@airmikey: depending on the car and track I use 60 - 90 Nm. A friend of mine (who owns a large Mige) tried my set recently and he preferred strength in the 30’s but I can’t get the car through the corner then, I guess I’m not that muscular
Yeah, let me know what you think
Regarding the slew rate limit; I decreased this value a lot to prevent the hefty kerb strikes in the F3 on some of the tracks. In the AMG GT3 you don’t feel the kerbs that much so it can probably be put a lot higher.
Recon 8. Jeesus. You don’t like road details, do you?
I’ve settled on recon 1, no damping, and minimal friction and inertia. The combination of ultra low latency filter and peak and notch filter is incredibly powerful, albeit somewhat hard to tune.
A DD wheel gives you incredible detail, don’t turn it into mush by turning recon to the max.
App.ini hides some useful options.
Time and experiences tells me that some cars needs different App.ini Configs.
To get rid of those nasty kerbs and bumps in the middle of a corner, try changing DamperMode:0 (Damping) to 1 (inertia)
With DamperMode at 0 - Damping - every kerb and bump translates to steering wheel like a damper, with all its travel from low load to high load and then low again, its slow in some scenarios.
With DamperMode at 1 - inertia - every kerb and bump translates to steering wheel with inertia, so when you takes a kerb or bump, you feel the bump but not all travel from suspensions. Steering wheel tries to maintain the car inertias
I will try that, thanks for the clear explanation!
@Leandros: I’m not going into that discussion, it has been done on the forum here before and there will only be losers in that battle… All I can do is repeat what I (and others) have said here before: everybody has their own personal preferences in how the steering should feel. No need to be disrespectful to anybody…
