And you are right it is far from clipping now,thank you sir,this helped me alot.
This was were i was searching at.
Stefan,
Im not sure but i think you should put youre wheel range at 900,because you have set it in TD,but not sure if that 8 degrees is noticable,or maybe you did it on purpose thats also possible.
I don’t know that either. But that comes out when I calibrate in iRacing when I turn my steering wheel 90 degrees to the left.
Yeh normally thats how you should do it indeed you are right,but because the software actually runs it i think you can set it at 900,but dont nail me on it.
I run with it and for me it works great,just do the normal calibration cyclus and when you have too turn youre wheel 90 degrees put it on 900 thats what i did.
I also tried to put it 90 degrees visually. But then watched several setup videos and everybody just put it to 900.
That iRacing steering Angle can be used to change steering saturation, IIRC:
Less Angle than TD Profile = less direct steering
More Angle than TD Profile = more direct steering
Caution: this can modify the forces on center of the wheel
Could it be the size of the steering wheel?
No, you just were approximately 4 degrees off when you calibrated the 90 degrees in iRacing.
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No, it’s just eyes can’t get correct 90 degrees. U can even use just stick or any other object, but 90 degrees will always be 90))
Okay, weird. iRacing writes turn your wheel 90 degrees. That’s what I do and then it’s not 900.
Then why doesn’t iRacing write rotate your wheel until 900 comes?
You can open TrueDrive and Display True wheel Angle on First page, do it with iRacing opened and match steering ratio looking at TD software
This is with all wheels that dont run on software or DD wheels i guess.
On my G29 i had too doo it the way you did it.
Yes, i thought same ))
- Calibrate the wheel (recalibrate if you changed the driver) in iRacing, following the directions exactly. In particular turn the wheel exactly 90 degrees to the left when asked, without worrying about the numbers we display on the screen. Most wheels claim to be 900 degree wheels but actually turn out to be 870 degrees, or there about.
this is what i found.
normally you would calibrate to the degrees of the wheel and iRacing will auto detect the degrees based on the 90 left set which is why you can get this slight off . the reason why you get it slightly off is a visual trick in that you are not looking at the wheel straight perpendicular so if you don’t go by the numbers on the screen and you go visually you will usually be a couple of degrees off… Normally it will not make much difference though as I racing will map the 870 degrees to 870 degrees and you won’t really notice much difference. But as Alfye mentioned you can change the mapping and this will change the rate at which the wheel turns ie mapping facing to 1080 on a 900 degree wheel will speed the wheel reaction where mapping 480 to a 900 degree wheel will make it turn more slowly as you have to turn the wheel more.
I usually don’t look at the wheel itself to determine the 90deg, instead, I look at the iRacing calibration numbers, when that reaches 900deg, I set it there.
Then, after calibration, my wheel at 90deg in iRacing is also 90deg in practice…but like you said, Brion, a few degrees doesn’t really matter at all, after all, you build muscle-memory and the non-linearity introduced towards the top of the range, is not something you will suffer from in practice, as you hardly ever turn the wheel more than 90-110deg in any direction anyway, as then you are overdriving and not hitting apexes, et al…
Cheers,
Beano
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@phillip.vanrensburg @bsohn @Boska and all, can you share your ForceFeedback app.ini config?
I need some knowledge about ingame damping, specifically about the options:
DamperSaturation= 0-10000
steeringDampingFactor= 0-1
My feelings tells me that those options are always active regardless of TD damping options, and changes dramaticaly the behavor of any car in game. Am I correct?
Which game are you using…
With iRacing you generally don’t want to use the in game Damping and you would leave it at 0… If you do use it is is pre-TrueDrive/Configuration tool signal damping and then the actual TrueDrive/Configuration tool Recon filter and damping will be placed upon that.
For other games some use Direct Input Damping which has active control over over the Wheel’s Damper system which means with that it is not altering the signal directly.
As for the app.ini I have the primary changes in the hardware forum on iRacing.
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3573261.page#10702254
Thanks!
So you race with DamperSaturation=10000 and steeringDampingFactor=0.050000
Those are default values for app.ini but if you change those, regardless of steeringDampingMaxPercent (same ingame damping bar that I never use), and the behavor of the wheel changes dramatically.
SimRacingCoach app.ini recomend a DamperSaturation=15 of 10000!?