I think that will make the wheel even harder while cornering.
Actually i think more static force reduction will help him to find that more natural balance.
I would start at 15% to understand what it does.
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Hey Beano, did you ever get to the TCR and the open wheels settings?
Ha no mate, been to busy with year-end business things, just had no time at all.
I might see over next couple of weeks how it goes, but I do have a few trips planned already. In between that, I am turning some laps in the BMW M8 and Ferrari GTE to see which car us Mad Cows will use for the 24hr Daytona race.
So quite limited time…
Hahaha no worries! Can’t wait until these are updated to NTM v7
Thanks for it. Im test it, but cant feel good car. Im trying to find good setup for me and settled on this with 42 nm ingame
Did you calibrated in Racing to 542°? Why did you set the steering range so odd?
Second, i see in your profile that you drive in safe mode, no surprise you don’t feel the car.
Sure 542, am too lazy to make ideal 540 
ingame it always jump between numbers, so im hold it on 542 )) Its fine with full torque mode. Safe, because im turn on simucube, for screenshot.
ah, ok.
Well, if you like it then drive it. Not my profile though, don’t think i could like that set of filter settings, especially for the F3
Your profile for F3?
as i said before, earlier in this thread.
Thank you very much!
Hello,
It’s incredible how easy thing can be hard to understand and you explain it in 8 different point of view and languages.
People don’t take in account that the Nm settings in iracing ( refers to ) steering column and 4 additional layer for suspensions + static/dynamic objects like curbs, bumps etc…
It’s the number that iracing ffb system expose to users that causes confusion.
Real 488 gt3 car have ( on the steering axis = steering column in race sims ) around 3.5 to 7nm peak ( depends on in car settings . You can drive the real 488 gt3 with 3 fingers and one hand only.
In iracing the telemetry have higher number because is divided in layers
4 wheel + suspensions
1 steering column
1 road textures
1 objects…
The sum of all this traces translates to ( max forces ) that iracing can have as ( dynamic range of signal )
Basically is sufficient to ( cover ) this sum and add a little bit of headroom for spikes just to be safe.
The way people think about this is
I want the exact same amount of torque that this car can generate in real life.
This is incorrect.
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From my discussions with David Tucker at iRacing and some actual data traces I have been shown I don’t believe that iRacing uses layering to get the strengths… But yes there are some discrepancies in relation to real life and there are a couple of MAJOR areas where the sim differs from real… #1 - Real cars passively transmit forces to you meaning that the force you feel is all mechanical based on frictions, nothing is really generated by the car itself (except sort of with some power steering systems) and #2 - iRacing uses their OWN tire model and anyone who has Raced or even changed the street tires on their car with significantly different tires will understand that tires can make more of a difference in feel than any other single thing you can change on the car.
I do also hear the argument that this or that car can be turned with three fingers or one finger or whatever, and that may be true at 2, 3 maybe even 5 mph but I can assure you it takes much more force to do so when you are traveling at 100 mph… the fact that you can do that in a real car and not in a sim does relate back to the fact that FFB is an active rather than passive process.
I will agree that 1:1 with the iRacing telemetry does feel very heavy and I settled on a ratio of about .6:1 for my personal use based on the racing that I have done in the past, Fatigue Level experienced, and feel of the car (with similar cars on iRacing that I have actually driven).
Now… all of the above being said… not terribly long ago I was able to drive a Porsche GT3 RS which through a few people I have heard that it is the closest thing to a Porsche GT3 Cup car that an individual can get their hands on and was able to go back and forth with at the sim and the car to get it to feel REAL to that car and ended up at a Specific output of approx .43:1 which is lower than what I personally run but is actually a decent amount higher than what I see a lot of people running… Granted I don’t know if that number would go up if I could have taken the car and cornered it at 100mph but I wasn’t about to do that on the street with a quarter of a million dollar car. I only got to test up to about 60 - 70mph and I had to make more street like maneuvers on the track to get a corresponding feel. There are a couple of factors as to WHY I could see the actual force out of the Cup Car being higher than what I found… #1 - the RS is on Street tires (granted GOOD ones) and not Slicks, Slicks would allow much more grip and intern much higher forces through the wheel. and #2 I couldn’t push the car since the faster you go the more force will be delivered until you step over the line.
The reason why I had the opportunity to do this test was that the owner wanted his sim to be set-up to match the car as closely as possible.
With all of this being said WE do need to know that number that iRacing puts out via the Auto at times to be able to keep iRacing from self clipping the the FFB Signal… Regardless of how it is actually derived if you set your MAX force below that number (doesn’t matter if it is above it) you risk clipping the signal output which will compromise the detail you will get from the wheel and create an icy dead feeling through the wheel.
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Well, im understand you right ? Good path to set perfect FFB it is turn off all filters in simucube soft, and first set auto FFB in iRacing, and after that twist settings in software ?
Not really… You don’t need to turn off the filtering at all to use auto. The Best way to guarantee you are getting full fidelity from iRacing and the car you are driving is that the Number you set in Max Force be at or above whatever it says by “Auto” (it doesn’t need to be exactly what it says only at or above) but generally if your Max force is at or above 65Nm you will generally get full fidelity out of every car and track combination on the service with a couple of exceptions…
Perfect FFB is the way you like it, as there will NEVER be a consensus. The amount of fidelity you get from the game itself has nothing to do with the filtering at the wheel. However, you can modify the feeling that comes out of the game with the filtering making it either more lively or more muted.
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( sorry, the replay is for bsohn )
Hello @bsohn ,
I have this information because i’ve tried this cars in real life and can guaranteed you that everyone is able to drive this cars with 3 fingers even at 170mph. expecially porsche RSR. Lamborghini have a little bit more strength than others.
i have made a mistake in my previous post.
It’s a my supposition that iRacing sums a couple of traces but i don’t know if this is correct. For sure iRacing developers know what they develop.
i know the FFB in sims are Positional but it’s not that bad.
i always use the auto FFB with 3/6 clean laps at high speed and from iracing suggestions i add a couple of Nm just to be safe.
for examples i use 488 gt3 at 48Nm at Charlotte - 46/44 at Monza. depends on tracks but iRacing auto FFb suggest 38/40 at charlotte.
For now i can’t use my SC2 Ultimate because GD team says that the problem is hardware related and have to exchange it with a new unit but when the new unit arrive i try to share my settings and ask you to try it and give me your feedback.
thank you for your infos.
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Wow. So steering wheel in gte and gt3 cars, are light ? Im usual use 48-55nm, but auto settings reccomended set it to 32-35 
hello,
yes, it’s light and confortable. in sims people uses strong forces to compensate what is not possible to reproduce.
iRacing suggests this numbers but it’s safe to add at least 5/8 nm for headroom and spikes. This depends on car/track combination. The advantages to have a powerful servos is that you can have the best clean signal possible out of the sim and this is generally very low strength, but with a very good servo you can amplify this signal. that’s all. just pay attention to not overstrength cars that in real life you can drive with fingers.
You see high numbers in iRacing just because is a sum of all forces produced from the sim ( telemetry ) but it’s not to be confused to the actual wheel forces/ car strength.
Just to add why sc2 is a superior servos.
Because at incredibly very low strength , even 10% of strength, you have 6 times the details compared to all other servos. GD is working on a new torque controller and new Recon v2.
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That sounds about right for what iRacing will give on auto for the GTE… There has been talk that iRacing doesn’t handle Power steering well so I would suspect that if that is the case they under boost the power steering…
On the 3 finger thing… When people say that it sounds like it is really really light but I just can’t see it being that light because a Road version Porsche GT3 RS (which I just drove recently) requires more than three fingers to turn the car even at road speed and my old Focus SVT is actually heavier than that car (maybe you mean guide the car with three fingers, ie slight corrections maybe 5-10deg, but to actually turn the car at speed…) From my experience on the track most race cars are much heavier than either of those. (though the GT3 RS I have heard through people is very close to a Porsche Cup) Now, that being said I haven’t driven an endurance car and maybe they significantly boost the steering to make it easier on drivers do longer stints which is entirely possible and plausible because cars made for racing could be anything they want them to be really.
In any case though what I racing puts out is kind of what it is and it is based on their car models and tire model and we deal with it. The tires are probably the biggest factor in any stray from reality though as they are of their own design and since it appears you have driven race cars in the past for real you will know that a tire change can make a significant and sometimes serious difference in the way a car handles and feels… And if not just look to drivers comments when a manufacture changes their tires and the don’t like the way they feel. Im not sure how many times I have heard these tires don’t work they are crap, ect… and I am not talking about iRacing (where it happens almost every season for one car or another…)
The way you set up force is one way to do it but it ends up being very car specific, You cn also set it up be allowing the servo to have more headroom setting the max force significantly higher than what auto gives you and increasing strength at the SC to give you the feel you want… but that is a side note…
Unfortunately I don’t have an SC2 Ultimate so the settings would not be exactly the same on my wheel. I jus got a SC2 Pro to mess with for a while that I have borrowed. which could be a little closer but I doubt it… Do you remember what strength you were running sure drive at with the Ulti.
One thing I have seen with the “Auto” settings is they are based on your driving with the wheel set the way you like it… so it will be different from person to person.
One interesting thing is I have been seeing telemetry traces of the BMW GTE on iRacing that have the telemetry hitting 70 and 80Nm which is REALLY High… However, when I drive the car I am Maxing out at about 40Nm in telemetry … So having higher number can also mean that you have a bad set-up or you could be running lower power levels and are actually turning the wheel more than needed scrubbing the tires much more (sending more Nm due to overdriving) in the corners which may or may not be a help your times and driving.