Slew at 0.1- 0.2 will get rid of the hard knocks from curbs.
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wow this really helped dial in my settings in the F3, i had the FFB where I felt good but the bumps in some tracks on the F3 was like holding onto a jack hammer. setting this to 0.1 has really really helped get the F3 so much more consistent to what I would feel is correct. Still feel the bumps but its as if I got suspension now and not holding onto a Jack Hammer haha
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Wow, i put 0.22 for 911Cup it’s amazing now. It’s like feeling suspension work driving on curbs, no wrist cracking anymore. THANK YOU!!!
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"Hi, i just installed an simucube 2 pro, and i am using the iracing truedrive profile
TD Overal strength: 100%
Iracing max force: 121nm
Iracing wheel force: 25Nm.
Tried the amg gt3 on bathurst, but car crashes are way to violent
What could i do to make the crashes less strong but still have strong force feedback?"
Sorry this may be late BUT…
Your Specific output is approx .206:1. (25 / 121 = .206)
to minimize crash force you will want to lower your iRacing Max Force but in order to keep the feel the same you also want to retain the same specific output.
The suggestions I make will be for the AMG or cars possibly below that level in telemetry output.
The AMG will generally run up to about 40Nm in telemetry some tracks maybe a bit more must mostly less so you would want to decrease your iRacing Max Force to 40Nm.
Doing this will of course raise the Specific output well above your current .206 so to find out how much power your base should be at you would multiply 40 x .206 which = 8.24Nm this means that to retain your current specific output with a 40Nm max force you will want to lower your SC2 PRO to 8.24Nm or 33%.
If you want your more non car specific settings, which I would suggest using actually though crashes will be harder but not quite like before would be to Set the Max Force at 65Nm and your SC2 PRO @ approx 13.39Nm or 53%.
The 65Nm setting will allow you to run most cars in iRacing without clipping.
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Just for my sanity check can you tell me if the following two scenarios will yield the same output (similar) in NM
A:
- TD: 31.4Nm (100%)
- iracing: 32Nm
- iracing force: 91Nm
So it should be (31.4/91) = 0.345 x 32 = 11Nm
B:
- TD: 11Nm
- iracing: 11Nm
- iracing force: 11Nm
so it should be (11/11) = 1 x 11 = 11Nm
thanks in advance, trying to figure out which is the best way to approach the same result.
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A: - you have correctly determined that .345:1 would be your specific output
B: - you didn’t do the calculation for specific output but it would be 1:1 as 11Nm TD and 11Nm max force = 11/11 = 1
To get the same specific output for B: you would take 11Nm and divide it by the specific output of A which would give you 31.88 which is what the Max Force Slider would need to be set at to get the same at the wheel .345:1 with an 11Nm maximum force output.
You need not worry to much about the Wheel Strength setting as that does nothing BUT limit the low end of the Max Force Slider. It just needs to be set @ or higher than your actually wheelbase / True Drive force
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Oh nooooooooo the mathematicians are at it again!:)
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Also remember that if you set iRacing force to 11 Nm you will get clipping. Too get the minimal iRacing force per car, you check the telemetry data and see what is the maximum output that iRacing generates for that car. For The Audi TCR for example it never goes above 35 Nm, so that what would be the minimal value I would use.
That is a little bit the unfortunate thing with the way iRacing does their stuff but if you know them it does make it easier to figure out what is going on or to compare to setups.
Yea 11Nm will clip every car in iRacing… generally as a rule of thumb…
15Nm + is minimal, 20 - 40 for Mid-range Open Wheelers and most GT Cars, 40 - 70 will cover pretty much all other cars. Above 70 and you are leaving headroom for spikes but also additional crash forces as pretty much all of the cars don’t have generally significantly usable telemetry above 70Nm.
One way to find out pretty close to what the car is capable of (Telemetry Wise/ Clipping Limit) without having to go into telemetry is to run the car for a few laps on the track and then click the auto setting in iRacing this will set the Nm for the Car being used on the Track Being driven at about the 95% mark so add about 5Nm to the number given and in most cases you should not get clipping, for that car anywhere … after getting that number though you MAY have to alter your power lever in TD or SC Config to what you want to feel at the wheel.
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@bsohn on Mika’s suggestion, I tried the following
10.7Nm in TD and iracing bother sliders at 32Nm, which I believe will give me a peak of 10.7Nm
Slew rate and low latency off
I found my perfect ffb i feel for IRACING. Warning i run low ffb on a 300 mm wheel.
Sc2 pro:
900
60% stg
5 filter
Unlimited TQ
Damp 10-20
Friction 5-12
Inertia 8-14
Off
Off
20% Ultra
Ingame : 3.1-4.2 stg on 25 nm
Variation depends on car. I race almost every thing on road and dirt road.
TD - 80% (25.1Nm)
iracing:
Max force - 80Nm
Wheel force - 32Nm
after a few laps, i pressed auto in iracing and it changed 80Nm to 32Nm
that would be too much
Yes, What ever Nm is set in the TD software will be the MAXIMUM that you will ever get at the wheel… and by setting the Max Force Slider to 32 the specific output would be .3343:1 or an at the wheel output of 3.343Nm for every 10Nm of telemetry output in iRacing.
You will clip (via iRacing) whenever the vehicle telemetry reaches 32Nm (any car) which will send a 100% signal to TrueDrive and then TrueDrive will drive your wheel to the 10.7Nm that you have set there.
Yea the only reason to use AUTO (with a direct drive) is to find out what the approx MAX telemetry output is for the car your are driving on the track you are on with the Set-up you are running and the weather you are running with… It is a VERY specific sort of setting but can give you a ballpark Maximum usable telemetry for a certain car.
Basically,
If you set the Nm BELOW what comes up with AUTO then you will clip the telemetry/Car/Forces and reduce Fidelity.
If you set the Nm ABOVE what comes up with AUTO then you are giving additional headroom for recreation of Curb Strikes, Hard Bumps, Crashes, etc… that addition headroom and fidelity may or may not be important to you.
3 Likes
@bsohn first thank you for being patient with us
even if you have to repeat yourself, I truly appreciate it. I am finally beginning to understand
I went back to 84NM Max Force and wheel force of 32NM
in TD I kept it at 80%
crashes are hard but I can take it 
the 32NM Max auto was for 911 GT3 Cup, I will use this feature to check what the max for each car is and tune for each car accordingly.
the setting of
TD - 80% (25.1Nm)
iracing:
Max force - 84Nm
Wheel force - 32Nm
Would not be right for MX-5
I may use the auto feature to find the Max and set the wheel force to that. and then TD and Max force by doing the math
getting the hang of it slowly
Hope this discussion helps others in future
Thank you again.
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OK, well these settings are in fact correct for the Miata as well as the Porsche if you want the power output to be relative by way of telemetry. This is because you would be using the SAME .299 specific output (25.1 / 84) for each car. So the difference in power and feel between the cars is completely based on the telemetry being output by the car through iRacing.
BUT Yes the Miata feels really weak at those levels as the car itself only will do about 15Nm (excluding crashes) in telemetry which would mean the wheel in normal running would only get to about 4.485Nm (15 * 2.99) of your TD set 25.1Nm under heavy cornering.
That is honestly one car that I adjust up from with my settings, and the one car I drop down on is the Indy Cars.
If you decide to let iRacing handle the relative power differences for the cars everything pretty much becomes “Set it and Forget it”
Though the best way for you to alter at this point is to just lower the Max Force Number if you want more strength at the wheel (raising the specific output) and if you need less force at the wheel then raise the number (lowering the specific output). This can be gone on the fly through the racing black box as well which makes things quite nice as if you start a long race and then find in the middle you really can’t hack the power you set you can then lower it while you drive… Or visa versa if the car feels vague and lifeless you can raise the power as well.
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Hi Guys … yesterday I bought the license for IRacing and I also bought the 488GTE. I did some tests today in order to find a suitable FFB that satisfies. I would like to hear some details like the road surface, the curbs and the depressions of the circuit. I’m running on the laguna seca circuit … I recommend how to start or what to do to succeed in my purpose. I have a simucube2 pro with the TD 1.10…thanks!
Forget about clipping and ramp up your FFB strength in iRacing, or do some clean laps and in Graphics blackbox push AUTO button when available
Hi guys, anyone mind sharing theire gte ffb preset? and if possible 911 RSR in particular? thx