We got some data from a GTE class racing car&driver. 50% in True Drive and around 90 Nm in iRacing was the realistic force level perceived by him, so its really low as the cars do have power steering. However, one must remember that the wheel is typically the only physical feedback that one gets in sim racing, so maximizing the details from that is essential. Having higher torque available as an overhead helps a lot, and overall higher torque gives a driver more consistancy via improved concentration and muscle control.
I don’t see a reason to complain, it makes sense the way it is. It just represents the telemetry force level which will be 1:1 with the max output of your wheel.
It is 90nm in the telemetry force the game is outputting. There’s a calc form somewhere in the iracing forums from brion sohn, you can calculate the output level.
But like 50nm strength with a 25nm wheel would be 50% output/halves strength.
90 is what? 30%?
"About the iRacing Strength Slider –
The iRacing strength slider sets the point in Nm at which iRacing will output a signal of 100% to MMOS and then on to the IONI Drive controlling your servo. It also controls the point at which iRacing clips output to the feedback system. Once a car telemetry output reaches the Nm set by the strength slider any output above that point will be clipped. This results in the servo outputting full force (as set by MMC) but without any detail until the telemetry indicates a reduction in vehicle forces below the set 100% point… What this means is that if you have the slider set to 30 Nm and you are driving a car where all telemetry from the car stays at or below 30Nm you will not clip at all but if you change to a car that outputs 40Nm in telemetry then when that car hits anything between 30 and 40Nm it will be clipped by iRacing.
So what does this mean –
What this means is that to avoid clipping on as many cars as possible you want to run the iRacing slider at the highest number possible. In running a higher number on the strength slider you also reduce your specific output at the wheel. This is where running a higher MMC value or an inherently stronger servo can help in that the higher Nm your servo can run, the higher you can set your specific output without clipping. This is why if you choose to have the same specific output running a lower MMC you will also need to lower the Nm number on your iRacing strength slider which will put you closer to clipping in iRacing.
It appears that for the most part you can keep almost all cars from clipping with an iRacing setting of around 55Nm, the DW12 will spike to 70+ Nm but not often. Of course when setting the iRacing strength slider there is a balance between the specific output you want to drive with and the amount of clipping you are willing to tolerate or use depending on the theory of setup used."
^^ No…I am at the airport now, will reply later if someone else haven’t already done so
Edit: Set TD at 100% for now. Set iRacing slider ~50-55NM to get the ffb force you want. Set the 2nd/lower iRacing slider to your actual servo torque…20NM for the Sport, 25NM for the Pro, 32NM for the Ult.
I noticed Porche Cup car has quite strong bumps but i think you feel it because it actually has a low cornering force when i tested it so i tended to run it up higher to feel the load. Its like it already has strong power steering to bring down the static forces, no idea if it does or thats just its geometry. I wondered if it would actually benefit from a static force increase slider which would then let you lower the overall force bringing the bumps down a bit. If that sort of tuning is anyone’s preference.
Hello,
While playing iRacing (Porsche GT3 and Miata mainly), I have a lot of effects while driving straight. This does not feel right (way too much and too harsh in straight line).
Is it possible to reduce them ?
As soon as I take a small curve, this effects disappear.
I am playing with 25Nm on True Drive + iRacing (Wheel Force), and around 60-70Nm Max Force on the Porsche (30-40 on the MX5).
Adding more inertia tends to trim those bumps out for me right now in the skippy so it’s not just not oscillating down the straights but nice and calm. Then I can focus on driving smooth while still getting all the grip and balance shifts.
Thanks for the tip. I was driving with 30% and tried to increase to 70%.
While a bit better, there is still a lot of effects on the straight. As soon as I get into the curves, this disappears and I have a good feeling with the car.
Problem only appear when wheel is ±5°
Edit: also when the car is stopped, the wheel oscillates slightly
