Hi Raimond
Thanks for the additional information. Maybe I misunderstood but I was under the impression that the “best practice” was to leave the overall strength in TD at 100% and then tune the strength using the iRacing sliders. To anyone on the thread…did i misunderstand that?
That said, I’m interested to hear your results after your testing today.
Yeah, well basically the opinions are very much divided over that one.
I prefer to lower TD Force to prevent nasty suprises in crashes.
And if I understood @bsohn correctly, he basically says: in-sim you have 3 strength-settings to chose from, based on the type of car you’re running (DF high, mid or low). The personal strength you want to achieve is then set by adjusting the TD Force.
Hi guys,
I’m new to SC2 Pro and I’m carefully reading and learning throughout this thread (fantastic details and help!) … one thing I’m still confused is about the iRacing wheel force. I understand it’s just used for the auto calculation of Max force, but when doing this exercise of determining the max force, which Wheel force do you shall I set in iRacing and in TD? 25nm on both? Or… if I want to have TD limiting to 12nm, I would do set the iRacing wheel force to 12nm also?
Thanks in advance! Cheers
Set the Wheel force slider to the same force you have in TD Force.
Just remember, iracing only uses this setting to determine the Max Force when you click on “auto” when driving. If you manually set the Max force the wheel force setting has no use so it then doesn’t matter what you have it set on.
Let’s consider the Sport: Should the user set the “Max Force” higher than the 17nm, the limit of the Sport’s output?
So then would “Wheel Force” be used to adjust the “weight” of the wheel as the user experiences it?
I’ve done a race in F3 tonight with these settings. After that, I tested several extremes in Damper, Inertia and Friction but nothing really felt better than what I already had. I only decreased the force in TD a bit as my arms were getting pretty tired halfway during the race 
In TD:
Overall strength 11 Nm
Recon Filter: 8
Torque Bandwidth: Unlimited
D: 2
F: Off
I: 2
Static Force Reduction: Off
Slew Rate Limit: Off
Ultra low latency: 15%
Peaking/Notch filter: disabled
In Iracing:
Max Force: 33Nm
Are you also lowering the Wheel Force in iRacing to match the decreased number in TD?
Also, how did you make out in the race? 
I didn’t change the wheel force in iracing because, as I mentioned in one of the previous replies this has no other use than for iracing to decide the max force when you use the ‘auto’ option. Which you don’t need anymore once you’ve set everything up manually 
The race went ok until I lost the rear and crashed hard into the wall in the final turn on lap 15/20 
But I liked the way how I could feel the grip changes in the front end of the car and that was exactly what I was missing with my older settings.
Sorry to hear about the crash but glad to hear that you’ve found the feel that you (and many of us) are looking for. Thanks again for all of your suggestions.
as @Raimond said iRacing Max Force , TD actual Nm. The thing with the 100% is that it in a way is best but ONLY for these factors.
#1 - You want every detail from very car and DON’T want to have to be changing setting all the rime…
#2 - You either don’t care about setting hit with coach forces OR up run high enough power where you are below about 60-65Nm which is the Max Force Number that will cover most every car.
Wheel Force is a Safety Mechanism to keep from over driving the wheel specific output and really can be set to anything but if you have it too high auto will limit itself at that number so if you use auto to find out Nm for information ONLY it is best to have it under 10 regardless of the wheel. This is because if you have a Pro and Set it to 25 and then run auto on a Miata it will give 25 but in reality the Miata should give about 10 - 12 but because of the wheel force slider it keeps it high as at 25Nm Wheelforce / 25Nm / 25Nm Max force you are at a 1:1 specific output. (mainly because of the TD / Max Force ratio.
There is nothing wrong with running into the 100’s with Max Force to get the at the wheel strength down but it gets very hard to get an exact Specific Output when the numbers jump in levels of 20’s and more as they do when that high.
I think some people go way overboard with how many settings they do change as the Wheel is here to to recreate what is coming from iRacing. It is not there to change it for each car… If you have good filtering settings in your wheel, a strength level from the wheel that allows you to get enough amplitude in the signal recreation to feel the details, and set iRacing to give you all of the information. you have EVERYTHING you need…
With me I have a Large Mige SC1 which is capable of 27.9Nm, I run at a Specific Output of .594:1 to do this I HAVE to run at a 100% from the Simucube and can ONLY go as High as 47 on the Max Force slider… so in order to run the Specific output I do I will never get FULL telemetry from all the cars in iRacing and that is the compromise I make for the feel I want.
Above I just made three Tiers of settings because as I mentioned in my reply to @Ottawaracer I think people go overboard with different settings for different cars and WAY overcomplicate things… By having three matching settings in Iracing and True drive then you have BOTH limited the Crash Forces and eased the amount of different profiles you need… In all reality if you can deal with some crash forces in the lower power cars you can eliminate the lowest setting group as well.
I will admit I do get really technical at times in the way I discuss thing because that is the most accurate and unfortunately the iRacing strength system is both Very complex but also Very accurate… Once you get the hang of it it is relatively easy to follow but until it “clicks” there is confusion which is why Most People just go to individual settings and Maximizing the force they feel from the car (adjusting everything) the issue with that is you essentially make all cars the same wheel strength wise which defeats Half of the goodness of realism that comes from iRacing (essentially making it feel more like Gain Based systems where all cars feel very similar to drive). It’s definitely a way to do it but rom me I would assume (and yes I know the anecdote) that you come to iRacing to get that more realistic feel.
In any case I have been attempting for years now to try to really find how to explain all this properly, and have asked David Tucker if he would like my input on revising the Way the force option work for set-up to make it easier to set the wheel up for people who don’t know. as there are a couple of things they can do that will make EVERYTHING work more smoothly but it will take adding some calculation code on the Back-end and slightly revising the sliders.
You can and it will not affect anything IF your Max Force stays at or above the number on Wheel force… I.e. a Sport at 100% with a wheel force at 25 ONLY means that you or iRacing will not be able lower the Max Force below 25Nm.
It is best to set the Wheelforce to what the Wheelbase Output force it… ie a Sport @ 50% would be 8.5Nm so that is where Wheelforce should be. if it were at 100% then wheel force should be 17Nm
Thank you Raimond!! That was the best my wheel has ever felt. Actually I had to go to 40 on iRacing because 33 was a bit too heavy for me at turn in and I was clipping. 1:38 racing laps at Watkins Glen with your set-up. Thanks for the advice.
Thank you bsohn. Without your efforts I feel like Raimond and I would both be struggling today. Your efforts are much appreciated.
No problem you guys are welcome
I’m glad I could help out, although most credit goes to Brion for his countless efforts in trying to explain things to dummies like us
Also, please keep in mind that FFB feelings are very very subjective to personal preferences so don’t hesitate to fiddle around with the TD settings.
so what gets adjusted to make the kerbs feel like you are driving over them?
I am by no means an expert, but I’d start raising the slew rate limit (if you have one set) and lowering the inertia.
Kerb-feel is veey dependant on type of kerb, which car and how the car is setup.
If it feels to hard you can lower the slew rate limit.
By “too hard” do you mean too much kerb feel? I don’t feel anything of the kerbs.