iRacing and Simucube 2

Simucube 2 Games
280

OK, well these settings are in fact correct for the Miata as well as the Porsche if you want the power output to be relative by way of telemetry. This is because you would be using the SAME .299 specific output (25.1 / 84) for each car. So the difference in power and feel between the cars is completely based on the telemetry being output by the car through iRacing.

BUT Yes the Miata feels really weak at those levels as the car itself only will do about 15Nm (excluding crashes) in telemetry which would mean the wheel in normal running would only get to about 4.485Nm (15 * 2.99) of your TD set 25.1Nm under heavy cornering.

That is honestly one car that I adjust up from with my settings, and the one car I drop down on is the Indy Cars.

If you decide to let iRacing handle the relative power differences for the cars everything pretty much becomes “Set it and Forget it”

Though the best way for you to alter at this point is to just lower the Max Force Number if you want more strength at the wheel (raising the specific output) and if you need less force at the wheel then raise the number (lowering the specific output). This can be gone on the fly through the racing black box as well which makes things quite nice as if you start a long race and then find in the middle you really can’t hack the power you set you can then lower it while you drive… Or visa versa if the car feels vague and lifeless you can raise the power as well.

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281

Hi Guys … yesterday I bought the license for IRacing and I also bought the 488GTE. I did some tests today in order to find a suitable FFB that satisfies. I would like to hear some details like the road surface, the curbs and the depressions of the circuit. I’m running on the laguna seca circuit … I recommend how to start or what to do to succeed in my purpose. I have a simucube2 pro with the TD 1.10…thanks!

282

Forget about clipping and ramp up your FFB strength in iRacing, or do some clean laps and in Graphics blackbox push AUTO button when available

283

Hi guys, anyone mind sharing theire gte ffb preset? and if possible 911 RSR in particular? thx

284

Thank you! what settings can you recommend me?

285

For GTE use Beanos Settings.
They are excellent.

In iRacing Double click on the torque button. It must be set to NM. Then set the iRacing Torque-slider to to e.g. 55 NM.

286

I found those settings a bit sluggish with lower torque values. Haven’t tried them with higher torque though.

287

You can reduce D, F and I a bit with lower torque, I run at higher torque levels, these are needed to stabilise the servo at those levels, plus, I quite enjoy the FFB then, it is not overly active and noisy/spiky, imho, but I know a lot of people prefer the more active feedback.

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288

I definitely plan on trying your settings again now that I have gotten used to the wheel and see how they feel now. With my current settings I get a bit grainy feel in the FFB, which is probably not very realistic. Will play around with the filters you mentioned and see if I can get to a point it feels responsive and smooth at my torque levels!

289

Cheers, sounds good, let me know if I can give further feedback, but there are some comments on my settings on the start of my latest videos…

For the record, I do not set the SC2 differently for each car, I develope a base setting on one car and use them for all cars on iRacing. There are exceptions, like open-wheel vs tin-tops, but for GTE/GT3 etc, I just use the same setting.

Cars are different, steering behaviour between them all are very different, exacerbated by setups differences, for example, castors, cambers, tire-pressures, etc…so one should not strive for all cars to feel the same wrt ffb, as they are all (intentionally and by design) very different in behaviour, at least in iRacing, which to me is the standard wrt ffb, even with a lower rate than other sims, the behaviour is by far the best…again, just imho…

Cheers,
Beano

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290

Same here Beano, using exactly the same TD settings for the Audi RS3, GTE’s and NASCAR’s in iRacing. The only thing I tweak is the overall level of FFB.

I did the same thing with the Bodnar and Lenze too.

291

Mind sharing your settings?

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292

Oh i love these Beanos settings. Feels great with 488 GTE and 55Nm in iRacing. But for example Z4 GT3 steering felt too light so i lowered iR Nm to 45 and now it is way better.

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I tried them too yesterday and God it feels great. I won in 2nd with it in first try ! I luv it Thanks Beanos for sharing these settings

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Cheers Guys, you’re welcome. FFB is pretty subjective, sone would luv it, others would hate it.,…glad it works for you though, it at least is a good stable baseline one could start from.

Re: Z4 bmw, yes, that usually is lighter than other cars, so reducing the torque-slider in iRacing to that 35-40nm level should give a more solid feel.

Cheers,
Beano

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295

I tried these settings with the 448GTE a nice FFB … but I notice that when I hit a wall even if I go slowly the steering wheel with very strong strokes

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Stay away from the walls or hit that e-stop or there will be pain :smiley:

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in fact, the first time I was losing an arm …:sweat_smile:

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I tried a version of your base line today (I named it after Mika, so I assume I saw his modified version somewhere) and I must say, it really does feel very good on the GT3. I’ll race with it for a while and then go back to my old settings and compare. But I have a feeling I’ll stick with yours :slight_smile:

I know your settings felt too sluggsih the first time. But that was with Audi TCR and I just switched from T300 to SC 2 Sport. I’ll have to give Audi another try and see how your settings feel now. I know I really like it AMG GT3!

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Yep, I think the first time we get into dd wheels, we want to have a similar type of rattle ffb the cheaper plastic wheels give…whilst it sure feels like fun, it is actually distracting and not conducive to fast lap-times…

This probably must be the reason faster aliens run with very low ffb on the entry-level wheels.

So it is quite natural when you migrate to dd, the first impression is to replicate the spiky/noisy ffb signal. But, I have learned that with proper settings, eliminating the spikes and the noise via filters, I can actually tell/feel much better what the car is telling me.

It is the most wonderful experience the first time you overdrive a GT3 or GTE car, you enter a low-speed corner, way to late on the brakes, and you can feel the tires scrubbing, or, the side-wall deflecting when you turn in.

Admittedly, my ffb torque-level might be on the higher side, but like mentioned, if you lower the torque, you can make small changes to D, F and I too, it will allow a pretty realistic ffb experience, but just with lower torque. Set it at whatever is comfortable for you personally.

For those that are concerned about hitting walls and stuff, you can always lower the ffb % in the TD software, perhaps down to 60-65%,whilst lowering the torque-slider in iRacing to 35-40nm, just make sure you are not clipping ffb in iRacing then.

But, generally, I run torque % 100 in the TD GUI, with iRacing slider 40-45nm, depending on the car, and I just keep it off the walls.

Practice race-craft around Mt Panorama/Bathurst, you don’t want to make contact there at high-speed, ouch…

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