Okay so I took a lap around on this game with the settings I left off with and I DESPISE IT. This game has always been one of my least favorites as it’s too slidly, no detail to me, and then spikes with bumps. Probably hasn’t helped that I have been trying a lot of stuff just to try and make it feel decent with no success.
I have mostly been testing the Porsche 962C as it would be a car to easily lose the back end. Attached are all the files. I’m currently using the custom FFB settings by RFUktor’s latest release (5.0.1.3). ffb_custom_settings1.txt (48.6 KB)
So I went back and just started from scratch and found a profile that is much better. I am running the basic custom FFB from the developer update, and I am running a true drive profile with only some slew rate to prevent the sharp jolts, 900 DOR and that’s it. In game settings are
Gain 35
LFB : 0
FX: 50
Damping: 50
These were recommended for simucube on Reiza so I started there, liked them and adjusted accordingly.
One of the last ones I would like to ask for help from everyone is project cars 2. I still play it as it offers multiplayer with AI, which many disregard anymore. The issue is just like AMS2 the FFB for this game feels tremendously OFF after playing AC and RF2 for hours. Even now after staying on it for over an hour and a half, I have no feeling with the car. I would like to start over and see if I can get something that feels better. I was using a pops racer FFB with a true drive profile from silver project. I have spent the last hour using a truedrive profile with some dampening and I have attempted both the basic raw file from the game as well as a couple recommended FFB files on the PCS & Simucube 2 forum. None of these have produce any good results. This could be due to my truedrive or in game settings not being tuned well for them though. Any recommendations would be great as I am getting no where with attempting to start with the raw game settings…
Wait, PC2 has individual car FFB? or are you talking about AMS? Because I have been setting that for each car, and when I went back and started from scratch I found a much better force feedback for the game compared to using the custom FFB file.
PC2 is the one that’s a complete disaster. I cannot get anything good with this game. I can’t tell what the car is really doing no matter what I try.
Ac , acc ,rf2 and ams2 for sure have ffb individual per car. I don’t remember about pcars2. What i mean is that in rfactor2 even if you set for example ffb per car at 50 when you enter a new session it defaults back to 100 and you have to change it again.
For ams2 i use the default with 50gain , a little bit fx and no damping.
When I tried both the F10 and a gt3 car both had continuously jumping around feelings in the wheel so I had to add some damper base on what Reiza recomended to lower it. But I was also using the basic custom FFB file.
For PC2, I can post my settings. The weird thing is with my 330 momo wheel these are nice, but with my recently purchased ascher wheel they feel awful and I don’t know how to change the settings as I’ve been at it for two days with no luck…
i can’t be of any help with the pc2 as i don’t even have it installed atm. I would try to lower the Gain value ,but even that could be wrong advice as i don’t know how the ffb custom file is set.
These settings won’t work, regardless what title it is.
You should take a break, it feels like you’ve been doing setups for 2 days now. I also think that you can’t leave a slider untouched, like " it’s there so I must use it". PC2 is a title not famous for decent FFB, nor for being easy at setting up input devices.
Damping at 30, friction 20, inertia 35, slew rate at 0.1 (so close to have no slew rate at all), direct input filters all at 100 (I don’t know if they are used, but if…). I really wish you to solve this, just try to think that less is in this case almost always better. And take your time. You will get the best feeling when driving a lot, really a lot. Best way to get an understanding.
Thank you for the advice. I have been just driving a lot really focusing on what each game feature does before placing anything on my true drive. It has been a lot the last two days and the worst part is I think I’m making progress, but it’s just that I’m getting use to the sensitivity from driving on the one game over and over. So what I feel is progress on the FFB is actually me adjusting to the title and then as soon as I move to a better title for FFB, such as AC or RF2, I come back and find how disgusting it is for PC2 lol.
The other odd thing as I said in my previous post, this is one of the few games that feels REALLY different between my momo wheel and my ascher wheel base. Although the 330mm vs 275 mm does affect me in other games for adjusting to the shorter turn radius, on PC2, one FFB setup feels terrible on the ascher feels pretty good on the momo wheel. It’s just so weird honestly. I feel like this game is going to forever be subpar…
My main goal of revisiting these also is to attempt forming better profiles for them and then jumping back and forth on them to see if they are similar enough for my brain to adapt and tell what the car is doing. If I can get on one sim after another and after 2 laps have a great feel for the car and what the ffb is telling me then it’s good, but I have been finding that hours on one sim results in some of my profiles being completely undrivable for 10+ laps on a new sim title.
Weight, shape, weight balance, all these basics get forgotten much too much when it comes to setups for TD. Your assessment regarding the two steering wheels is completely correct. It does matter
Did you ever watched the Simucube 2 tutorial videos? They are really helpful, like where to start to setup FFB (in game) and then to fine-tune them in TD. There are about 7 or 8 videos. This is the first one:
I did watch through them when I first bought the wheel and of course during that time it made things more daunting for me. I will go back and explore them some more.
@Purple_Red
I’m definitely no guru for the ffb settings and their functions, but anytime I move the slew rate up even half way the jolts are crazy high and will rip the wheel from my hands. I am guess it’s a rate and turning it very low slows the rate at which things are sent to motor.
Why don’t you start with low settings in a title like AC? 50 overall gain, rest 0. No gyroscopic effects, nothing.
If you drive new formula cars try to set rotation to 360, in both TD and CM (or Assetto Corsa vanilla). If you drive other cars set it to 1080 in both settings. Use half of your torque.
Recon off (I love it, it’s very raw, but totally precise, accurate and real time) just to understand how it is.
Then, recon 1, unlimited, Di to 0…and drive
Too weak, step up in-game. Too weak, again. When you have a basic force feeling you can (but don’t have to fine tune) in TD
I have been slowly working on this over the past weekend. I had around 4 days where I did nothing but tune and I started completely fresh on each profile, taking all features out of TD and starting with the in game trying to tune. I have the overall gain in game at 35% for AC and slowly added content manger things like gyro and once I had the settings feeling good I needed to lower the jolts, which is usually my main issue, I find that the FFB strength that feels good to me until a jolt, or contact happens.
@Purple_Red
Thank you for this!!! I will try around 0.5Nm/ms. I’m glad to see proof of the difference the slew rate plays. I personally, and again I can admit I may be wrong in doing so, but I live by the slew rate. Turning the rate down low like I have allows me to keep bumps, jolts, and contact from being harsh without loosing it. Whenever I would lower the jolts in older games through ini files it would greatly reduce all feeling you got even from road textures.
There really is a problem with the slew rate. It is not felt immediately like an equalizer, but the slew rate only takes effect in certain cases. Accidents and curbs are the most well-known culprits. In music, the effect is better known as a compressor and is a powerful tool there as well.
Just try a bit with the slew rate, it definitely doesn’t hurt. Unless you’re not paying attention, and you should be careful. If you simulate an accident, first see how your steering wheel behaves.
It hurts badly if you grabbed the steering wheel at that moment. I can offer that from my own experience!!!
GT3 cars have, before tuned, the same torque the official street car has. So steering torque is maximum 10Nm.
F3 cars like the Dallara F312 have between 10Nm (slow chicane) to maximum 20Nm (fast corners). They don’t use power steering.
F1 cars with powersteering may not even reach 10Nm.
Maybe you should check this:
Don’t use but overall gain. The other effects are either canned, or can have unforseen impacts. They are intended for belt driven wheels like the Logitech G29.
In the set-up section, right before driving, check the value “steering assist”. If it is at 0 you won’t be able to drive the car without getting hurt. Set it to 80 to 100.
When driving, open FFB controller, check if the gain is at 100. This is the per car multiplier. It will also try to heart you. Lower it to 15 and do some laps.
If you use FFB clipping app, DON’T use dynamic mode. It tries to always have FFB at the highest level. https://trinacriasimracing.wordpress.com/considerations-on-the-ffb-of-the-steering-wheel-in-simracing-compared-to-the-sensations-of-driving-a-real-racing-car-2/
