, sometimes it’s not easy. I remember dirt 2.0. It was “cmon, you can’t be serious”, then “do we have klonk on and klonk off only?” to finally deinstall…
don’t know . It has been redacted haha. Maybe I’m doing something wrong?
Are you using high damping/friction & inertia either on TD or game settings? If yes that is what probably kills the around the center forces. That is what bugged me too and initially i was turned off. High self aligning & TD strength needs higher friction and damping to control somehow the strong forces, ending in losing the aligning torque around the center which suddenly ends up in vicious snapbacks, so the whole thing is practically useless. LFB or gamma could potentially help balancing some cases where games have poor ffb. Anyway i somehow managed to get a responsive wheel with reducing friction/damping as much as possible with a reasonable self aligning torque but on the lower side. Rally cars, especially on loose grounds, should not produce excessive countersteer forces or snapbacks and should be light enough so while driving you should be able to turn the wheel just with 1 finger, but on the same time there must be enough directional information. Try my settings posted here yesterday in case they help you.
no i use 10% damping in TD, that’s it, and in game i have self aligning at 30 and everything else at 20
the game just has crap ffb
It’s pretty tight on tarmac, unless you have set something wrong like deadzone or linearity.
On loose surfaces it feels like it should “loose”, at least matches my experience driving on gravel and showy roads. This is not a race car on a grippy racetrack.
The best rally driving experience to date for me. Love FFB, Codies did a really good job, I’d be proud.
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if it’s loose then it should be constantly loose, not loose around the centre then suddenly heavy when it grips, that is not how power steering feels
Do you even have tyre friction at 20? If yes, then you have always the understeer effect (loose). Anyway as said, try the posted settings, see if they make any sense to you.
Nope, that is not how it works IRL.
All working fine now. Can confirm game looks much better with dlss tweak. Thanks @Andrew_WOT!
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On gravel, steering should feel light, on loose gravel even a bit lighter compared to tarmac, sand, mud Aso because tyres have in general less grip, and grip will also vary very random based on the consistency of the gravel. Front wheel driven cars will spin more than rear wheel driven, especially at low gears with higher RPM. Plus, they have to pull, which is normally harder than to push.
On snow, you will have problems with finding the right amount of brake power, the car should drift as less as possible, having the right gear very important, braking and timing aswell (it all is important, on all surfaces, but snow is less forgiving). And unfortunately snow ain’t snow, more compact, less compact is hard to tell, and the time for an analysis is simply not there. The car’s weight will play an even bigger role.
Ice, with spikes, ain’t that difficult as long as you don’t start sliding over it. Trying to decrease speed with shifting is better than with braking.
Tarmac is grippy till you overheat the tyres or it’s wet. The steering should not feel numb and very heavy, just…grippy.
If you get this from a rally game it’s good to very good. If not, it’s bad. There are tons of other points, but these are some basics one should feel.
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I just saw another person having the same problem. Not even this is working for 23, what a pity. Did you go on driving the title?
Yeah, well i am sure they will fix the telemetry issue quickly. And indeed i ve spent 1-2 hours already on the title. It has some bugs here and there but overall i think is quite pleasant and fun. The physics are quite good actually and once you dial in the ffb settings (getting the ingame setting right is the main issue), it is surprisingly nice. I totally recommend it.
Ok! Thanks for the reply! Asap I can test it I will do it. Don’t forget: you have to finish first to finish first 
I tried to play with DLSS (I have 3080) but I cant get it to work with Nvidia Surround. I tried with SWRE etc
Do you guys run triples?
Maybe I should buy a 49 UW OLED and forget the triples?
Beta simhub with proper telemetry support
https://www.simhubdash.com/unofficial/SimHub.9.01.9b1.zip
- WRC23 Telemetry support : Warning final lap times are wrong, i’m still looking for a workaroud if somehow it’s possible
- Fix : Iracing oil pressure conversion issue
- Feat : Simagic TB-RS haptic motors support
- Feat : Added RBR wheel speed allowing to compute more shake it effects
- Feat : RBR : Faking telemetry during intro to make game show as connected earlier
- Fix : Dynamic added repetitions sometimes not in sync on the HTML render engine
- Feat : Make usb devices update asynchronous (to reduce faulty devices impact on others)
- Fix : F123 event deserialization during simhub replays fix
- Fix : custom launcher path : Deduce working directory from exe path
- Feat : Added DashStudio group content auto arangement/alignement
- Feat : Added direct structured game rawdata object access to JS engine.
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We also released Simucube Tuner with support today, so that ActivePedal has working effects.
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I’m still having occasional stutters, the update hasn’t changed much for me - is there a way to set the shader cache to a higher value for WRC only? I don’t find the setting under WRC and I’m reluctant to mess with global settings. Also, you mentioned “virtually none”, how often would you say you experience a stutter in game?
Usually only single hiccup on stage start. Haven’t tried with patch yet.
Tinkered settings over 3hours to know exactly what everything does.
DI Friction effects both Wheel friction and Tyre friction.
If you have DI Friction ~100, Tyre friction setting is biggest offender.
Its easy to test: DI Friction ~100 + Tyre friction ~100, start stage and turn wheel side to side while parked and you notice big friction on your wheel. Also dampens way more while driving than Wheel friction.
Wheel friction gives you kinda same effect what TD friction does, id say 100 = TD friction 10%/DI friction 0, so not much but its noticeable.
Tyre friction doesnt feel “dynamical” effect for me at all just muddy dampening.
It would be cool if Tyre friction was gyro effect, but its seems its not.
I also just opted to DI Friction 0 and use some TD dampening/friction/inertia to get some weight on the wheel, but also more direct feeling.
But yeah, key to fight against too big of a snapbacks is to find balance between dampening/friction/inertia and self-aligned torque.
TLDR: DI Friction 0 and random Tyre friction value doesnt do anything which i often see at paddock profiles
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Just a note on this, Tyre friction simulates the effects of understeer. The lower the value, the more pronounced the effect will be.
So basically, with a low value you get a very loose wheel even with a tiny tyre slip which is unrealistic especially in rally conditions where there is lots of sliding. For example, you are on gravel and while you are on a turn, the understeer effect will be exaggerated (even though the tyres still have some grip) and will loosen the wheel interfering with the aligning forces, so you will end up turning it more, and once the tyres get some grip, it will cause a harsh snap back. I am not sure if i explain this properly, but you can get the idea. Higher values on this should provide better results. I have set the tyre friction at around 130 which seems more balanced to me as you get the loose wheel effect when you are supposed to.
Wheel friction can be 0 or again a low value, which should not really matter if you have DI friction at 0. If you are not doing high TD strength and high self aligning torque, then you can easily get away with low friction value on the TD constant operating friction to get a more detailed and responsive wheel.