Yes, i run 1.4 version, now i try to reinstall game
Your settings are terribly wrong. In your Simucube you should never, ever, go for 0 in Friction in the Direct Inputs. Especially for Dirt Rally, it more 25, 50 or even 100 if you adjust correctly ingame. The game needs this settings. And in your ingame settings same story the tyre friction is a needed effect. Your wheel is way too uninformative to be practical.
You have another issue on your first line, you need to select Device driver or the equivalent in your langage.
Its exactly because of things like that people thinks that the FFB is terrible, most of the time its peoples settings that are terribly wrong.
Take this post as an advice not a blame. You can do what ever is OK for you, its just a shame to not use your hardware for is purpose.
I reinstall and do again configuration like at eksimracing, now is good, I have choice at game.
But now i search good settings, I have small mige, simucube, ioni pro hc, enkoder 40k cpr.
I try to set up myself, but still miss something.
Hm… steering range only 340 in rally??
900 or more* 2.5 or more full turns lock to lock: Usually anything from average road cars to sports cars.
720 (2.0 more or less turns lock to lock) Drift cars. Multiple classes of Rally cars (group N)
540 (1.5 more or less turns lock to lock) GT1 and 3 spec race cars, and WRC Rally cars.
360 (1.0 more or less turns lock to lock) Formula 1 cars.
Well its better, but after this, its all about you and what your trying to achieve. In your last screen the mix 100 friction(simucube) and 100 tyre friction is a bit off for my needs. But it can be different for you. I have a Mige 18Nm motor, I cant do a screen now, but I have something like this :
Simucube (23A 100% strength, recon fitler 1 or 3 (im testing 3), direct inputs 50% friction )
Torque: 15-20 (Depends on car, some have a really strong one, group b and so. When I am really tired I go even under 15 sometimes.)
Wheel Friction: 13-20 (this is important for the wheel weight. It will help to keep your pecision up while cornering. It fill have a negative effect if its too strong, it will absorb the Road Feel and the suspension effect, so dont abuse it)
Tyre Friction: 75-85 (Simply Road feel, light road feel. Its even lighter know after patch for some reason)
Suspension:10-25 (I cant go further or my wheel will throw me off my rig haha, but here you will get the most feedback after patch. Its a bit tricky cause if you’re too high it will be like having no dampers on the ride, and every shock will be really hard on the wheel, not a good thing when you want to be fast)
Another tip is to remove your last setting. The center thingy. Its purpose is to make your wheel go back to center after you reset your car after a crash or something. Its not very useful and can save your wrist. If too high it will surprise you. Its mainly preference.
Keep always in mind that FFB is not a 100% reproduction of real car feel. You can be close to it, but many effects arent supposed to be in the wheel. FFB is here to compensate all these things you feel in your body when you drive in real life. So dont try to be to close to real life, you will not get there (maybe with a moving cockpit rig). The point I making is find whats best for you, play with settings and which one makes you quicker with good sensation.
Whats really missing in the FFB since ever in Dirt Rally is the grippy, noisy sensation that you have on a road. They added some kind of vibration with update, but it feels random and its a bit disturbing to my liking.
Im glad if it helps you, otherwise…I tried.
I take these tips with pleasure
I continued my tests and made some modifications
here are my last parameters
I have a small mige at 15A and not at 12A like most players
sorry for my bad English
Yes, I have been driving in RBR for years with such an angle 340-400, I do not like to rotate much, in this way I do faster counterattacks
And I don’t use soft lock at games, maybe it is wrong ? I don’t know, I play that since I remeber.
Soft-lock doesn’t seem to work in DR2 at this time anyway.
I would suggest increasing the Friction (SimuCube Direct Input) to 100% and reduce it (Tire Friction) in-game so you are running settings that compare to others for better analysis and results.
Thx, zroka, i try Your tips.
If you will be able to share your screenshots from the game and simucube.
I wonder why You are 23A at small mige, I also have small mige 20Nm, but it shows me 12,5A
most likely he has large mige
Il have a small mige 20Nm at 15 A
MMC at 15
MCC at 10
Well it’s because it’s not a small mige that I have, it is a MIGE but a 18Nm. Augury Simracing sells a kit with it, to be more precise it is a 130ST-M6025. It needs a bit more power than a Small Mige to work correctly thats why 23A. Don’t believe you have some false hardware it’s specific to my motor. From what I know you have your setup correct with 12.5A.
@mtakala, In Racingfr forum, Franconen informed me that under Dirt 2, his steering wheel disconnect in a random way. He has previously tested a SimuCUBE 2 pro loan by JCL. Now, back under SimuCUBE 1, he has this problem. Software version 0.54.
UP a solution for this problem ?
Does not happen to me on my rig nor at the office. Most likely am issue with the game. Lots of similar reports on Codemasters forums last time I checked.
@mtakala same thing with Rfactor 2 now for Franconen. I have too same problem, USB beep connection deconnection with my rig and freeze in AC. But I Can continue to play the game…
I have the large (25a) Migi running under SimuCube1 with the latest firmware installed.
Having used it successfully in iRacing for 2 years I got bored and decided to give Dirt Rally 2.0 a try. Downloaded from Steam yesterday and followed the instructions in this thread and the instructions on adding the xml file.
The game certainly sees the migi, buttons and wheel calibration set fine (450 degrees lock to lock). But I have a problem. There seems to be about 10 degrees free play in the migi which I know is a setting that I have wrong but which one could it be?
there might be a deadzone defined in the game for the steering axis.
Thanks Mika, no dead zone was set but I have with a combination of others settings managed to get a good working setup now.