Automobilista 2 - Simucube 2

FX at zero with the same result suggests it is a bug. I know Reiza could use more detailed reports to narrow down the culprit.

I had it happen a couple of times when going off track but, that was pretty early in the beta. No such issues recently.

It is hilarious how fucked up this game is. Now I am not even able to calibrate the wheel - as soon as the game starts there is a super strong spring force on the wheel. Impossible to do the calibration with that. I erased profile (about 100 times since the release!!). Tried the recommended custom settings file…

I was about to buy AMS2 because of the good reviews about its immersion :slight_smile: But all this crazy problems with the Simucube FFB just tell my head not to buy it :face_with_hand_over_mouth:

by chance do you have menu spring enabled in the ffb settings ingame?

Try calibrating with the emergency stop enabled

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yeah, I checked that from 0 - 100 and back -> did not help. I will try to do the calibration with emergency stop enabled.

Ams2 is a right pain to assign the wheel axis. What worked for me was holding the wheel at the 90 degree angle and moving it slightly past 90 and back slightly before 90 degees eventually I got a axis+ assigned. Then do the same for the opposite 90 degrees to get the axis- assigned. Enabling emergency stop may help too.
Also if you have a project cars 2 controller config file you can copy it to ams2.

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So could do the calibration with emergency stop active. In-game that awful spring effect was gone - so far so good (and thx for the hint EsxPaul).
The physics and FFB however are still so bad, I would never call this a simulator, not even close. The way I can slide/drift to corners even with the F3 cars, the permanent in-turn understeer and out-turn oversteer with a variety of cars in the game is just so unrealistic that I lost interest in the game. Maybe the switch to the PC2 engine was the death for proper physics in AMS, no matter how much Reiza tried to tweak it. The cumbersome configuration and trouble with controllers is the last nail on the coffin.

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Which other cars have you tried? I’m finding the GTEs to be good, as well as some of 1990s F1 cars. Admittedly, I don’t drive a ton of different cars in AMS2, but I think AMS2 is still a really mixed bag in terms of quality. That being said, I have a hard time going back to other sims since I feel like I can drive the aforementioned cars on the edge much more realistically than other sims (slides can be manipulated/controlled rather than just totally disastrous). I agree that some cars still feel like drift cars though. Also, it’s worth trying custom FFB files as well. I can’t stand the default FFB, but I haven’t tried it recently either since I have no need to do so. Not trying to convince you to like AMS2, but since you already paid for it, I am hoping I can suggest some ways to make it more enjoyable.

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Yet again almost broke my damn thumbs tonight trying to assign the axis on this.
This isn’t SC2 specific, it happened with my Podium Racing Wheel (DD1 PS4) as well.
I know, I know, “set your FFB to 5% or press emergency stop when assigning”, but we shouldn’t have to do that.

Assigning controls in a racing sim’s freaking settings menu shouldn’t apply force feedback. It’s insane that 70-80% FFB can hit your wheel in a damn menu.

That being said, because I’m a masochist, I bought the season pass.

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I encounter this as well, and it’s EXTREMELY dangerous. Im glad you’re ok though. I think I’ll report it to Reiza in case it hasn’t been reported already…like you, I also bought the season pass haha.

there is zero support for dd wheels on ams2, only thing they added, as they said, specifically for dd is the damping ffb setting which is broken since day 1 given that it only generates huge oscillations in the wheel.

@SuperMonaco_GP i think the default ffb got seriously crappy (oscillations, pendulum, twitchyness, etc.) 1 year ago. Until then it was good in some cars, bearable in a few and terrible in others regardless of the ingame and TD settings. Haven’t tried recently but i doubt if there is any progress. IMO the only way to play this is with a custom ffb file…

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I just tried the “Default” ffb a couple days ago and it seems better now to me but, I still prefer a custom-ffb version. I have a couple of effects I want to fine tune in a custom version but, am quite happy with the last few versions I’ve tried.

Keep in mind, “Default” vs “Custom” ffb in AMS2 may apply in-game damping quite differently. More recent custom versions use in-game “Damping” for power-steering. In either case, I utilize servo “Friction” to stabilize wheel jitter (Center feel) and servo “Damping” to limit wheel rotational speed. With AMS2 "Default-ffb, I reduce servo damping and combine with in-game damping to get more per-car-based steering character.

In either case, I have zero issues with oscillations, pendulum-effects or twitchiness. I’m still on my SC1 but, will transition to SC2 soon. Again, adding some friction and/or damping (Servo effects) should really help. I’m not able to induce oscillation (purposely) with any car, in any title at this point.

Be sure to set AMS2 “Menu Spring” to 1 or 2. I’ve not had any issues setting up steering since then but, using the safety-stop is a good work-a-round, for safety’s sake.

I’ve moved away from the “Full Power” at SC level tuning approach. I generally run the SimuCube output close to 50% output, with most titles gain set between 70-85%. This provides some increased margin of safety and may even improve ffb detail (in some cases). It definitely did with ACC-ffb.

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Can you please elaborate on this a bit more, thanks.

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Back when I was active in the AC forums, it was revealed that full power (DD-wheel output) combined with reduced game output resulted in reliable and clean ffb-signal. This made sense at the time as many users, new to dd-wheel use may have struggled with ffb-signal clipping.

Of course, the above approach brings some safety concerns.

More recently, it’s been suggested that the inverse approach may result in improved ffb in ACC. Having struggled to get the full range of ffb-effects in ACC myself for quite some time, I experimented using moderate wheel-power settings with higher game ffb-output and found immediate improvement. The one effect I could not achieve with ACC was the tire-scrub. No matter what I had tried previously, it did not exist using SC1. Now it does, even with relatively high Friction and Damping applied (Servo).

It seems, for whatever reason, the ACC-ffb signal is transferred to the wheel more effectively when the game output gain is set higher (Tested at 80%+). I’m not sure how this plays out using other steering systems, though.

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Thanks
Very interesting as I remember we were discussing and testing this to death with AC.
Just tried this on ACC with SC2 Pro. Can’t tell 100% that there is more details, but there is one thing though, overall gain scales non linearly when adjusting in game gain.
In my case
50% in game x 100% TD <> 80% in game x 62% TD
I had to add about 5-7% per car FFB gain to match first (50% in game) to second (80% in game).
May be that small gain difference makes it feel more detailed, just like with music, louder always sounds richer on details.
Would love to hear other people results, wish there were more scientific way to measure that than subjective by feel assessment.

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Interesting result, Andrew. It will be interesting for me to compare results with SC2.

It may just be more obvious with SC1 but, it’s definitely not the ol’ “Placebo effect”. I spent a lot of time chasing my own tail in circles trying to solve the missing scrub-effect (with SC1 & AccuForce) back then. :wink:

I’ve not found similar with other titles, though. Will be digging a bit deeper in the next week or so, just curious.

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Usually I always check with Formula 3, GT3, the caterham and one of the classic F1 (70s). All the weird brazilian cars I don’t care. The GT3 cars are indeed not so bad, I actually like them the most in AMS2.
I also experimented with custom FFB.
In the end there is this fundamental flaw all over with the behaviour when braking and oversteering out of turns that is completely different what others Sims have (AC, ACC, iRacing, R3E) and just feels plain wrong.
As I have some track experience, including Formula 4 cars - I would say I can tell ;-).

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Do you have any good settings in game and in the True Drive of Simucube 2 that are recommended for GT3/GTE in AMS2?

I am currently using the standard settings in AMS2 and a “consistent” online profile from True Drive but I am a little bit disappointed by the FFB in AMS2 compared to ACC :unamused: